Small Wine Producers… For the Win!

Nothing could keep me from a Memorial weekend discovery of boutique wineries in Oregon's wine country. In fact, to ensure I wouldn't miss it all, I left the comfort of my family and drove until 2:30am until I finally arrived home in time to catch a few zzz's all so I could present you with the following (truth be known, it was worth all the effort).

Anam Cara

Founded by: Nick and Sheila Nicholas

Winemaker: Aron Hess

Vineyard: 35 acres, planted in 2001, including some of
Oregon's original David Lett Vadensville Pinot Noir clones

The words Anam Cara are Celtic meaning "friend of my soul" and symbolize the long journey they've taken to produce wine. The boys were busy digging holes in the vineyard, while Digger the hole digging dog was busy hamming it up for my camera. Sheila and Nick hold a "Garage Sale" twice per year (Labor Day & Memorial Day), but you can visit by appointment and you'll be welcomed. Though Sheila's Pinot noir's are excellent, and I've heard some think her Chardonnay is the best they've ever tasted, I was completely bowled over by her 2008 Riesling—bone dry and bright with complex yet elegant notes of jasmine, pear and honeysuckle… I love this wine!

Laura Volkman

Founded by: Jim and Laura Volkman

Winemaker: Laura Volkman

Vineyard: 3.5 acres of Pinot noir, planted in 2002

Laura Volkman Vineyards was planted in 2002. A true boutique winery, producing a mere 500 cases per year. With the exception of their Chardonnay, Laura carefully crafts all their wines from estate fruit at August Cellars, located just down the road.

Natalie's Estate Winery

Founded by: Boyd and Cassandra Teegarden

Winemaker: Boyd Teegarden

Vineyard: 2 acres of Pinot noir, the rest of the fruit is sourced from The Dalles and Yakima Valley

Natalie's Estate Winery, located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, is named for the owner and founder's 12-year-old daughter. The winery released their first commercial vintage in 2000 and is now producing 2,300 cases a year of 12 different wines. The whites are all stainless steel fermented showing bright, crisp and true flavors, while the Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet and red blend were equally impressive. This is definitely a winery to watch.

Anderson Family Vineyard

Founded by: Cliff and Allison Anderson

Winemaker: Cliff Anderson

Vineyard: 16.5 acres on a mountain of fractured basalt with broken rocks hundreds of feet deep forming the foundation for the rocky terrace.

Anderson Family Vineyards has been growing grapes for Oregon's premium wine producers for years, and their grapes can be seen in a current collection (as shown in the photo above). In 2002, they crafted their own wines and released their first commericial bottling. They primarily grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (producing some of Oregon's finest unoaked Chardonnay I've had the pleasure of tasting) but have less than an acre of Pinot Gris which was accidentally planted after being mislabeled by the nursery. Producing under 1,000 cases a year, they were clearly thinking of the future when they built their magnificent new winery production and tasting facility.

Monks Gate

Founded by: Ron and Linda Moore

Winemaker: Ron Moore

Vineyard: 20 acres planted on the 50-acre estate

Monks Gate, located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, is a wonderfully unpretentious taste of history. With the old barn, rustic tasting room and the Moore's country hospitality, you're sure to feel right at home. The story of Monks Gate is as rich as the land. In 1988, on the day Ron bought the property (full of overgrown Christmas trees, scrub oak and blackberry bramble), he was surveying the land when two monks from the nearby Trappist Abbey walked out of the woods. After introductions, the monks inquired about Ron's plan for the land and he informed them he intended to grow wine grapes. They asked if he planned to put up a fence because this path was their shortcut from the Abbey to town, and he told them if he did, he would put in a gate for them, and he did.

Ghost Hill Cellars

Founded by: The Bayliss family

Winemaker: Rebecca Shouldis

Vineyard: 15 acres planted on the 234-acre estate

Ghost Hill Cellars is named for an old legend about from the 1860s when Oregon was in the midst of a gold rush. A miner traveling from southern Oregon to Portland with his hard-mined gold decided to camp for the night at the top of the hill that overlooks the site where the vineyard is now planted. During the night, someone killed the miner and his horse and stole his gold. Story has it, the miner is said to wander the hill with his horse, looking for his stolen gold. The farm has been in the Bayliss family since 1906, with the fourth and fifth generation now at the helm. Winemaker Rebecca Shouldis is crafting some very unique and memorable wines using only estate fruit. Her Rosé was gorgeous, and I so wished I had been able to include it in my review of Oregon Rosés, next year!!

Stag Hollow

Founded by: Jill Zarnowitz and Mark Huff

Winemaker: Mark Huff

Vineyard: 34-acre estate with a 10-acre designated wildlife preserve

Stag Hollow is an Old World-style family estate that's been producing wine since 1994. Stag Hollow will be at TASTE THE PLACE in Portland on Saturday, August 30,from 5-8pm (check their website for more information). They were offering tremendous discounts on their quality wine for the holiday weekend as well as selling futures of their 2008s. A testament to Stag Hollow's quality, their wine is currently being used by the prestigious Joel Palmer House for their private label Cuvée.

Séjourné

Founded by: Kevin and Robin Howard

Winemaker: Kevin Howard

Vineyard: One-acre of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris planted on the five-acre estate.

Séjourné is a small estate winery located within the Yamhil-Carlton AVA which, in addition to the vineyard, grows lavender gardens as well. They have a Wine Room in downtown McMinnville where you can taste the wines and pair them with small bites, but I chose to visit the actual winery and get a real feel for the place. Séjourné literally means "place of rest." The Howards wish is for their guests to enjoy their wines in the warm ambiance of their tasting room or relaxing in the adjacent garden patio while enjoying views of lavender fields, orchards, vineyards and the rolling hills of the valley below.

I was seriously amazed at the number of wineries I visited over two days, but still missed so many; I need more holiday weekends!! Lots of highlights on this day's outings, and it's so hard to narrow it down, but the best of the best for me (wine and experience) was Natalie's Estate, Anderson Family Vineyard and Monk's Gate. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Boutique Wineries Offer Rare Tasting Opportunites

Like the “Shot Heard Round the World,” Memorial Day triggers the start of the wine tasting season and since many of the smaller boutique wineries are only open two holiday weekends a year, it was also the shot that signaled me to get out and taste as many of them as I could.

Quailhurst Vineyard Estate

Founded by: Dr. Marvin Hausman

Winemaker: Joe Dobbes

Vineyard: 35 acres planted in 1998 on 75-year-old estate

Quailhurst has a stunning location, perched high atop Parrot Mountain in Sherwood and makes exceptional estate wines of high quality and character. The grounds of their unique estate also feature riding arenas, stables and pastures to support their horse breeding and Dressage center located adjacent to the grape vines.

Hawks View Cellars

Founded by: Jack and Willie Kemp

Winemaker: Ryan Harms

Vineyard: 130-acre estate, 45 acres since in 1991

Hawks View Cellars is a relative newcomer on the scene and making a huge splash with their finely crafted wines, comfortable tasting room, stunning five-peak view and their proximity to Portland.

Vercingetorix (VX)

Founded by: the Hall family in1959—owned and operated by the grown children since 2009

Winemaker: Laurant Montelieu and Jason Silva

Vineyard: 11 acres planted on the 210-acre riverfront farm

 

No, it’s not the name of a newly discovered dinosaur but rather a fun and unpretentious winery tucked away in Newberg next to the Willamette River. Vercingetorix is named for a Gallic hero who is recognized for saving Burgundy’s Pinot noir from Roman invasion, VX converted an old apple orchard to vineyards and is producing grapes using a Geneva double curtain trellis (Oregon growers typically use the Scott Henry trellis system).

Durant Vineyards at Red Ridge Farms

Founded by:Ken and Penny Durant in 1973

Winemaker:Partner with different winemakers who their purchase grapes such as Jesse Lange and Dean Fisher.

Vineyard:Over 60 acres of some of the oldest vineyards in the Red Hills of Dundee.1

Durant Vineyards sells their fruit to 73 premium wine producers in the Valley, finally creating their first estate wines in 2003. Their tasting room is located on Red Ridge Farms, which also showcases the family’s herb and specialty plant nursery, a unique gift shop, intimate Bed and Breakfast and Yamhill Valley’s first olive oil pressing facility. Cottonwood Winery and Cancilla Cellars were also pouring wines there for the holiday weekend.

Le Cadeau/Aubichon

Founded by:Tim and Deb Mortimer in 1997

Le Cadeau Winemaker:Different for each bottling

Aubichon Winemaker:Jim Sanders

Vineyard:: 28-acres of rocky soil planed in 1999

Aubichon purchases all their fruit to produce their acid-driven wines while Le Cadeau uses only estate fruit from their Parrot Mountain vineyard located on basalt and volcanic soil. Le Cadeau wines are each made by a different winemaker and each show an honest commonality of vineyard.

Ken Wright Cellars

Founded by:Karen and Ken Wright in 1994

Winemaker:Ken Wright

Vineyard:55 acres located throughout the Willamette Valley

Ken Wright has the distinction as being known for being one of Oregon’s first winemakers to craft single vineyard designates. I have to put this out there too, though they very nicely let me in at closing time, they were also the first tasting room I’ve visited to charge me a fee. And though I at first balked at the $20 charge (I don’t drink, I don’t eat, I don’t linger and I’m going to write about them), but Ken Wright was so damn charming, in the end I nearly forgot I paid them money to blog about them.

Carlton Cellars

Founded by: Dave Grooters and Robin Russell in 2001

Winemaker: Dave Grooters

Vineyard: 22 acres in the Yamhill Carlton AVA planted in 2003

Carlton Cellars opened their modest tasting room in 2007, debuted its first commercial bottling in 2007, and as a tribute to the ocean, which so profoundly influences and defines its wine, they’ve named each of their wines for a special place along the Oregon coast. Saturday, June 19th kicks off their not-to-be-missed Summer Vineyard Lunch Tour where for $35 (or $90 for all three), you’ll enjoy a lunch feast and tour of the vineyard at three integral times of the growing season (bloom, lag and veraison).

Raptor Ridge Winery

Founded by: Scott and Annie Shull in 1995

Winemaker: Scott Shull

Vineyard: 18 acres on the northeast side of the Chehalem Mountains

Raptor Ridge (who placed third in my recent tasting of Oregon Rosés) acquired its name from all the birds of prey that share the winery’s 27-acre estate. Their vineyard is actually named Tuscowallame, which is an indigenous word meaning “place where the owls dwell.” Taking their names seriously, instead of naming the vineyard blocks after family members (like so many wineries do), each block is beautifully named to honor the foreman who planted it (Adalfo, Macario and Dustin).


Tasting so many wineries in a day left little time for detailed tasting notes, so while I haven’t highlighted the standout wines like I typically do, I would like to mention my favorite wines of the day came from Quailhurst (though the horse stable tasting room added to the overall experience, the smell unfortunately didn’t contribute to the bouquet of the wine at all), Durant Vineyards and Ken Wright.

Inspiration for the photo collages comes from fellow blogger Josh, whose blog PDXploration details cool fun and unique things to do in this fair city and always features gorgeous photography. You can find him on Twitter: @PDXploration.

The whirlwind weekend wrap-up unbelievably continues next with Anam Cara, Laura Volkman, Natalies, Estate, Anderson Family Vineyards, Monks Gate, Ghost Hill Cellars, Stag Hollow and Sejourne. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Lose Yourself In Time at Helvetia Vineyards

If you’re looking for a break from fast-paced city life and seeking some long lost country-style hospitality, you’re sure to find it at Helvetia Vineyards. Established in 1982 by one of the friendliest men in Oregon’s wine industry, John Platt will guide you through his wines, talk to you about the farm’s rich history and, if you’re lucky, he might even hop in your car for a ride up the road to give you a tour of his winery.

Founders John Platt and Elizabeth Furse Elizabeth planted grapes in 1982 originally to supply home winemakers and actually hadn't considered making wine at the time. Their intent was to grow something to satisfy the requirements of farm tax deferral, and wine grapes seemed the likeliest of crops. Later, when these very same home winemakers started winning awards, John's interest in winemaking was sparked. 1996 brought about their first commercial crush and they’re now producing 1,300 cases of estate wines from their 10-acre vineyard located on a southwestern face of the West Hills at the northern tip of the Tualatin Valley (which is actually still within the Willamette Valley).

Winery mascots Jake and Coco are the real greeting committee at Helvetia Vineyards, and even on a spring day that was as soggy as breakfast cereal after sitting in milk a bit too long, who could possibly resist sloppy, wet kisses from a face like this?

The winery’s visitor center is located within a 100-year-old historic farmhouse which now features a display of some of the original winemaking equipment found in the cellar as well as hammocks, horseshoes, croquet and picnic tables to help make your country retreat complete.

While admiring an old framed photo of the original residence, John relayed the story of how this photo was actually a postcard sent to the owner, Jacob Yungen, from his daughter Elise expressing her troubled situation as a single mother while trying to raise her young children. She had mailed it from Reedville, Oregon with a message scrawled on the back asking for help. Looking at that ancient photo of Jacob sitting on the front deck while his daughter Elise gathers her children at the back door moved me in a way which seemed to send me whirling backwards through time. I wondered who took that photo. I could imagine how drastically different her life must have been—to be a woman in 1900. Can’t you just feel their struggle? As I looked into their faces, I tried to understand their relationship. Why is Jacob sitting on the front deck while his daughter and grandchildren stand out back? The house’s air was thick with stories of labor and love, of people and time and I wanted so much to just breathe them all in; yet their secrets remained as elusive as the apparitions themselves. John brought me back to the current century by offering me a tasting of his wines.

Miss Kitty (the resident floozy) affectionately swirled around my feet as I swirled my wine in my glass. She kept me company while I enjoyed a 2007 Chardonnay that was a bit like that tropical vacation I so badly need. With notes of banana cream pie and kefir lime adding a nice twist of tartness, it was like eating dessert while on that tropical vacation… double bonus, all for the value price of $13.00. Ka-ching!

The 2008 Pinot Noir had just been bottled three weeks prior to my visit, and though very young and fruity (put that baby to bed), amidst the sweet strawberries and tart cranberry smell, I detected a bit of barrel funk that’s sure to add elements of intrigue as this wine develops. John offered me a bit of smoked salmon, which brought out a lovely earthy component in the wine, similar to freshly dug truffles. He said he gears his wines towards smoked salmon, and I don’t know how he does it, but he’s right, the combination was very complementary.

John didn’t have to twist my arm to convince me to drive with him over to the nearby winery for some barrel tasting. Jake and Cocoa apparently didn’t want to miss the opportunity either as they ran alongside the car trying to keep up. I thought I lost them, but apparently, they knew just where we were headed and caught up with us before I could even park the car. The wines in the barrel room were listening to some Jazz a la NPR’s Prairie Home Companion (so that’s where that funk in the wine came from) while we tasted an 09 Pinot Noir already developing some nice complexity showing similar moist earth and truffle notes as the 2008 vintage. Sensing I must be a rosé fan, John went to great lengths to siphon off some 2009 Pinot Noir Rosé for me from the Rose Vineyard, a one-and-a-half acre block that doesn’t ripen up quite like the rest. The wine was vibrant and teased my nose with smells of comforting memories of childhood—bubble gum, watermelon and strawberries. Like a fountain of youth, too bad it wasn’t bottled yet.

I dropped John back off at the old Victorian estate and it occurred to me how history has a way of shaping perspective, molding thoughts on your own reality like a lump of clay. Looking up at the windows of the house, envisioning whose faces have looked out of that glass over the years, it occurred to me how closely connected we all are no matter how much time separates us. When Jacob Yungen wrote home about his new life in Oregon, he said, "The North wind howls here every time it frosts. However, the grapes often ripen full and wonderful." So, the house is still here, there are just new faces peering out the windows. The grapes are still ripening, wine is still being produced and families are still gathering on the farmhouse estate where time has a way of just slowing down so much, it’s almost as if it never existed. I guess things haven’t really changed all that much. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Hawks, Eagles and Exceptional Wines

What does it mean when you’re driving and you see three separate coyote roadkill carcasses? My first thought was to call my friend Rachel and ask her if she’s ever tried coyote for dinner. My next and almost simultaneous thought was, “Oh shit, it’s a Three-Coyote-Roadkill Day, that can’t be good. I should probably just turn around and head back home right now!”

Sometimes, while out touring the countryside, often lost but looking for a specific off-the-beaten-path winery, I make a game out of spotting hawks. It goes back to living in the mountains in Colorado where my main source of entertainment on long daily drives to town was catching glimpses of those magnificent birds of prey who made their presence known only when their empty bellies forced them to find the quickest and easiest meal around—carrion (kind of like fast food for animals). That gift (the sight of these impressive birds) while beautiful in and of itself, always seemed to serve a greater purpose, feeling much like an omen, a prophecy of what the day held in store for me. If it was a One Hawk Day, it would probably be a good day, Two Hawk Day—even better. A Bald Eagle Day? Well, who knew what could happen—and so on and so on.

So when I passed not one, not two, but three separate (and fresh) coyote roadkill incidents in the span of 10 miles or so (without seeing a single hawk), I naturally wondered what kind of bad sign this could be. Thoughts of spiritual warnings were flitting like spring birds in and out of my head as I pulled into Kramer Vineyards, where instead of spotting hawks or eagles, I turned my head and saw the familiar twists of my friend Fred Gunton’s handlebar mustache instead and knew all would be just fine.

Kramer Vineyards, located just outside Gaston, was founded by Trudy and Keith Kramer in 1983 after some earlier experimentation with berry wines. On their 20-acre parcel, they’re growing Pinot noir, Chardonnay, Pinot gris, Riesling, Muller Thurgau, Carmine and Muscat with four acres scheduled to plant to Petite Munier and Gruner Veltliner.

When you arrive at Kramer, expect to be greeted by either or both of the resident labs, Cassie and Kosmo, and rest assured, they’ll keep you company while you linger on the delightful deck savoring the estate-driven wines. There’s a lovely wine barrel fountain (with fish), which serves a dual purpose, both providing guests with a little ambiance and also being the town’s largest dog bowl.

Kim Kramer-Kreiger, one of the winemakers, was pouring a selection of 2005 and 2006 vintage wines in their Reserve tasting lineup that were quite memorable. The 2005 Pinot Noir Heritage was a deep red color with a strong nose of red fruit (cherries, plums, raspberries) and a pleasing perfume of roses and a hint of vanilla. This wine opened up slowly, then revealed cherries, strawberries, cola and attention getting spice that’ll keep you coming back for more and make you wish you had a case.

Kramer Vineyards also produces a fantastic Merlot with from grapes from Walla Walla, Washington. The 2007 Merlot was rich and lush in my mouth, layered and complex showing pretty blackberry and plum fruit flavors on top of coffee, chocolate and a seductive finish of clove that’s spicy and sweet at the same time. I wasn’t crazy about their whites, didn’t try the Rosé, but the reds give anyone good reason to visit.

Still not knowing what message those coyote’s were trying to send me, I left Kramer feeling a bit mystical, wondering if there was a story there I’m supposed to tell. I often look to the universe for signs about which direction I should take at a certain crossroad, so I wondered. Am I at a crossroad? Is this a sign that’s meant to detour me? I realize now, in reflection, that I haven’t visited many wineries since this day… perhaps I took that detour after all. I’m a bit unsure of where I am, but I'm pretty sure it’s exactly where I need to be and with hope, my next day will be full of hawks, eagles and exceptional wines! Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Fred Gunton of Entertaining Wine Tours provides amazing personalized and customized tours of the Willamette Valley’s small boutique wineries, large estates and hidden gems. Give him a call to arrange your unique wine country visit today, you’ll be glad you did.

Tri-fectas and Cabernet… in Oregon

The first day of Spring brought with it cornflower blue skies and temperatures pushing 70 degrees… not exactly Portland weather, but welcome like a long lost friend. I arrived at Solena Grand Cru Estate Winery eager to taste their vertical of Cabernets (vintages 2003-2006). I’d previously tasted at Solena’s downtown Carlton location, but since then, they’ve opened their brand new estate winery, located on 80 acres in Yamhill, Oregon. The desire to visit their new location, a special tasting of Cabernets in the vast land of Pinot noir and getting out to enjoy the amazing weather made for an irresistible tri-fecta.

Emily Stoller-Smith (wife of Dundee Bistro Executive Chef extraoridinaire Jason Stoller-Smith) had an unexpectedly large turn-out for their Cabernet Sauvignon vertical tasting, but she handled it with grace, wit and style when she asked if any guests had their OLCC card and invited them behind the counter to pour. I felt inclined to do so… for a fleeting moment. Then I remembered I already work for nothing (except the pleasure writing my blog and hope that I’m entertaining my readers) and decided one unpaid job was quite enough.

Emily started off my tasting with a 2008 Pinot Gris. I took my glass outside to the peaceful deck overlooking the young vines and solar panels because nothing invites a glass of good white wine like the warmth of the sun’s rays. The day was a perfect pairing with my wine, which was almost equally perfect. The Pinot Gris was bone dry with intense aromatics of Asian pear, white flowers, starfruit and a delightful minerality, which added both body and character. I sat alone on the deck, tasting my wine while quietly absorbing my surroundings. To be completely honest, all I really wanted to do was buy a bottle, grab my sweetie and hold up with a picnic and some witty conversation while we lied in each other's arms soaking up the dreamy sunshine.

I returned to the company of the bar to start my Cabernet tasting and was slightly disappointed when one glass of 2003 was set out before me. I know it’s an obscene amount of glassware, but if you’re going to offer a tasting of four consecutive vintages, you should be able to revisit the wines for comparison of color, clarity, viscosity, and taste them all side by side; just my opinion. Here’s my impression of the wine (which by the way were being offered for sale as a collection for less than $100—screaming deal):

2003 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — A sweet and fragrant nose of blackberries, root beer, violets, tobacco and mint. The distinctive peppery finish was long and smooth. Well structured with a nice, dark garnet color and medium-heavy weight viscosity.

2004 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — Same black fruit core and same white peppery finish as the 2003, with firmer tannins, a big bite of dusty earth, licorice and savory cured meat.

2005 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — My favorite of the line-up, and probably because it was the most Pinot-like. It was silky and well balanced with a full nose of blackberry, mocha, violet and licorice that carried through on in the palate. I thought this wine was so good I even brought a bottle to take to dinner at my friend Todd's (who's also a fellow blogger and Pinot connoisseur). I hope it's as good as I remember!

2006 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — Still young tasting and very fruit-forward, thrusting wild raspberries in your face (compared with the black fruit core of the three prior vintages). The nose was soft, the tannins light and I just didn’t see a whole lot of complexity in this wine.

I was slightly amused when I sat down to take some notes and glanced at the guestbook next to me; the first name was Kevin Bacon with his email address, followed by George Clooney, of course. I think someone had a little too much Cabernet that day.

Witnessing me take notes with an old-fashioned pen and notepad, a conversation with a guest ensued about his helpful iPhone application for tasting notes. The world continues to get more high-tech and I struggle to keep up, yet I rest assured knowing there will at least never be an app for making wine. That’s one thing that will thankfully remain a form of art—an individual, beautiful and creative expression of fruit. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Finding Freedom in Oregon Wine Country Tour

On the day I set out to meet newlywed friends Becky and Zack at Willamette Valley Vineyards, the countryside was both covered and quieted with fog thick as a shroud. Becky arrived ready for Oregon rain fully decked out in her trendy yellow galoshes free to splash in puddles as her heart so desired (missed photo opp number one).

Willamette Valley Vineyards is all about location, location, location. Just south of Salem, and ideally situated directly off I5, its sloping vineyards and watchtower facility regularly lure travelers from their destinations. Founded by visionary Jim Bernau in 1983, Willamette Valley Vineyards lies on a 50-acre estate of red Jory soil, where originally a plum orchard, blackberry bramble and scotch broom blanketing the land. The winery was built in 1989—that and the underground cellar were carved into an ancient volcanic flow (also part of what makes the soil so rich). Now owning more than 300 acres, Willamette Valley Vineyards has grown to become one of Oregon’s largest and most recognizable brands.

The winery offers public tours every day at 1:00 pm, but we were a bit early so we passed on the tour and stayed to taste—though I bet the tour would have been great and really feel like I missed something (if you plan to visit, keep this in mind)! Willamette Valley Vineyards is extremely focused on wine education and they’ve also built a new Wine Center in McMinnville complete with maps and information about the regional soils.

Katie, one of the friendly tasting room staff, greeted us with a pour of their 2006 Griffin Creek Viognier first and then their Chardonnay along with the classic story about how guests always say they don’t like Chardonnay until they try this Chardonnay… hmmmm, haven’t heard that one before. One thing about tasting with friends is you get honest feedback. I was tasting something unpalatable and indefinable in their Chardonnay which my friend Becky accurately termed “funk.” This is why I love tasting with friends. They not only tell you like it is, they even give you the words to accurately describe it—thank you Becky! Clearly not my favorite (or Katie’s, as she actually honestly admitted to us before our tasting – go Katie!!). My preferred wine was their 2007 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir, smooth yet luscious, beginning with a huge nose of black cherry, blackberries and vanilla and following with a mouthful of strawberries, cranberries, smoke, graham and spice.

When it was time to leave, I followed my friends for a change, as they were endowed/armed with internet and GPS. Driving along washboard dirt roads, my Jeep was smiling as she was getting splattered with mud, feeling at home again after years of city driving. Zack was enjoying his German automobile a bit too much and I was struggling to keep up with him, but he eventually led us directly to Ankeny Cellars and the all the glorious surprises in store for us there, thanks Zack.

If you’re ever in the market for a winery “experience” go to Ankeny Cellars. This time of year (winterish), the outdoor ambiance is more imagined, but located next to Ankeny Wildlife Refuge, one could envision sitting on their deck sipping wine while watching predatory and migratory birds flying overhead. In the dead of winter and pre-dawn of spring, it was still just a graveyard of trellis and vine beholding all the promise of the coming season.

Kathy “The Wine Duchess,” as she’s been nicknamed by Ankeny’s winemaker Andy Thomas, graciously poured for us. Planted in 1982 by Joe Olexa (who has four college degrees, none of which have anything to do with growing wine), the vineyard is located on the southernmost slopes of the Salem hills producing roughly 2,000 cases annually all from estate fruit (they also sell grapes to Kings Estate, Redhawk and Brooks). As Kathy poured us the 2006 Hershey’s Red Pinot Noir, she told us how Hershey the dog has sadly been missing since November 2009. A beautiful tribute to Hershey though, and at $15/bottle, this wine with cherry and tobacco flavors was a tremendous value.

Another wine easy on the wallet and of particular interest was the 2006 Ankeny Crimson. With its strong Port nose, this Marechal Foch-Pinot Noir blend was inky and heavy with dark fruit. It was truly an unexpected combination, and in the words of Kathy our host, “it’s like two wines in one” … fascinating, and at $12.00 bottle, not a real risky investment either. I didn’t particularly care for it, but my companions thought it was good. We all have different palates.

Kathy told us we could take a hike—up the hill that is, past the grapevines, goats, cows, llamas and emus, to a one-acre clearing of 85 marked and 12 unmarked graves comprising Cox Pioneer Cemetery. I later learned that the cemetery was founded by Thomas Cox, Salem’s first storekeeper, and that his wife Martha was the first person buried there in 1949. An old barn from 1851 still stands on the property today, which I didn’t see and am still remiss about that lost photo opp too… another time, perhaps when the weather is fairer.

My friends and I parted ways as they continued to explore some regional favorites while I had the sweet wines of Honeywood Winery on my radar. I ventured back into the Salem hills once again GPS-free and flying by my own instincts and the seat of my pants. Quite miraculously, and without so much as a wrong turn, I arrived at Honeywood’s Salem winery.

Honeywood Winery officially opened the day after prohibition ended making it the oldest continually operating winery in Oregon. Founded in 1933 by Ron Honeyman and John Wood, it was originally called Columbia Distilleries (producing brandies, cordials and liquors), and though they objected to the merging of their names, somehow—and naturally—Honeywood stuck.

The winery offered an enormous selection of wines (18 different varietals!), above and beyond the mead and 34 fruit wines they’re famous for. When you’re handed a list with over 50 wines and told to select five, even the experienced taster is overwhelmed. I had no idea what I wanted to taste, I’ve never been there before—I really wanted to taste it all… or most of it. Well, actually I really don’t want to taste 34 different fruit wines (how many ways can you spell berry, ugh?), but five wines really didn’t give me enough of a chance to taste what the winery has to offer either. Of what I did taste, I enjoyed a non-vintage Muller Thurgau tart with lime and a touch of warm anise. As I drove away, I started thinking about those fruit wines and how I bet they’d be great for cooking—sauces, syrups, dressings and marinades of the most memorable kind! Hmmm, great thought… too bad it was moments too late.

I also thought more on tasting in the southern Willamette Valley. In addition to enjoying some great Oregon wines, you won’t break the bank and you’ll also find educational tours, history, hikes and beautiful settings to enjoy it all. I always treasure my drives through wine country; the roads are open and long and even with the windows closed, there’s this sense of having the wind in your hair—I guess it’s a feeling of freedom. I saw a huge Red Tail Hawk on a fence post right off the road, so I pulled over to try and capture his magnificent image on digital film. He sat still while I changed lenses on my camera and he sat still while I slowly and casually approached him. And as soon as I got close enough and brought my camera up towards my face, he was off with the swiftness of a glider, the grace of a ballerina and the sheer power of an airplane. I pouted a bit thinking the day’s theme seemed to be about missed opportunities, but as I saw the hawk flying off into the distance, I realized it was really about the glorious gift of freedom instead. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

St. Francis Embraces Social Media and Bloggers

Recently, I accepted an invitation to have lunch with winemaker legend Tom Mackey of Sonoma County’s St. Francis Winery & Vineyards. As if I would have said no. First of all, the man is “The Master of Merlot,” and with 36 years of winemaking at St. Francis alone, he’s an absolute well of knowledge and a genuine soul. I was honored to dine with him at the exquisite Urban Farmer in the swanky Nines Hotel and excited to hear about his impressions of the current state of the wine industry. Also joining the party and bringing their own viewpoint to the table was Mary Cressler of Vindulge, Jim Eastman of The Wine Cyclist and Bernie Gehret and Eva Schmole of portlandoregonwine.com.

When Tom started with St. Francis in 1983, he admits it was a much simpler time. The winery consisted of a four-man team in a smaller and less demanding market, before the explosion of the nineties hit and small wineries started popping up like prairie dogs in a field. He acknowledges the changes, both in viticulture and winemaking standards, has seen the California sprawl and embraces the winery’s current goal to walk with a lighter carbon footprint (Cheers to that!). St. Francis presently participates in a water collection program and has 90,000 square feet of solar panels that actually feed energy back into the grid! When asked about biodynamics, Tom admitted he was amused by the cult aspect of it, but respectful of the science and the goal for healthy plants and earth. He spoke of their own movement towards organics, but said they’re years from certification.

We talked a little about Merlot, naturally, and of course I had to ask Tom what his thoughts were on the Sideways "phenomenon". I was quite surprised by his answer; the man is as eloquent a speaker as he is a brilliant winemaker. Humbly, he said, “Sideways was just the straw that broke the camel’s back; Miles said what a lot of critics were thinking at the time. There was a lot of mediocre Merlot being produced.” Merlot had been riding the wave Pinot Noir is currently riding. The varietal was relatively new to the American market; it was easy to say and sounded interesting. Unlike Pinot noir though, it was ready to consume and user-friendly. Win, win… until the next trend came along. This of course got me wondering about that wave of Pinot noir; is it leveling out making its way for the next big trend? What is that next big trend?

Tom started lunch off with a taste of his 2007 St. Francis Sonoma County Chardonnay and a fascinating lesson in the history of the winery. He regaled us with stories of how the Chardonnay grapes are harvested at 2:00 in the morning, when the fruit is at its coolest. I could just envision the workers plucking ripe green clusters from the vine they’re tethered to with only the light of the moon to guide them. The grapes are immediately whole cluster pressed and then barrel fermented to reveal a fantastic wine that let delightful citrus and melon flavors of the grapes show through while retaining a precarious balance of rich though not creamy texture and delicate vanilla oakiness. I really enjoyed this wine and wanted to savor it a bit before heading off to the land of the reds, where we were clearly headed.

After tasting some other Sonoma County wines, we arrived at the treasure trove, tasting St. Francis’s limited production, artisan label, Wild Oak—which Tom says consists of the best of their best. Like a winery within a winery, St. Francis has a separate area for processing smaller lots of fruit in a gentle, minimal intervention style to produce wines of greater character expressing the sensational vineyard sites from where they sprung. St. Francis has continued to grow and produce exceptional Merlot year after year and though Tom prides himself on being able to play on the flavors of the vineyards as opposed to making the wine taste the same vintage to vintage, there is still a certain consistency and predictability in his wines.

The 2004 Wild Oak Merlot was outstanding. The wine was every bit as lush and velvety as a Bordeaux-structured Merlot should be. I let the wine open up in my glass for some time before I even approached it. At first sip, it was slightly firm, with chewy tannins that continued to soften as it oxygenated. The Merlot was just starting to reveal its luscious cherry, floral and cocoa flavors while Tom explained how though California is generally picking later than they did historically, this vintage was ripe early and then blended with Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot—a real beauty.

I'm confessing right here, I'm a bit gaga for his 2006 Wild Oak Zinfandel. It was sweet with cherries, blackberries, licorice, pepper and something like mint, menthol or eucalyptus that added a lovely lift on the finish. Lively fruit and juicy acids coyfully played with the smoky chipotle sauce on my chicken sandwich and then, as if reading my mind, Tom told us about how St. Francis was the first California winery to focus on food and wine pairing. They now feature an on-site executive chef and the St. Francis website goes one step further, offering recipes to pair with their wines.

Before I arrived at lunch, I honestly wondered why someone who primarily writes about Oregon Pinot noir (me) was invited to meet with the California Master of Merlot (Tom). Never one to look a gift-horse in the mouth, I had no intention of passing this lunch up. I try to embrace most opportunities that come my way… finding life’s greatest lessons are often learned from some of the most surprising and unexpected teachers. What I really came away with, aside from an even deeper love of St. Francis wines, was an appreciation and respect for how this well-known winery was reaching out beyond traditional press to wine bloggers and Twitterers instead. They could have invited big-name reporters from local publications looking for traditional news articles, but chose to incorporate and utilize social marketing; here’s to the power of the new press and to St. Francis for their forward thinking. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Photo provided by Mary Cressler, thanks Mary!

Oregon Winemaker Tributes Valentine Break-Up With Nefarious Pinot Noir

You could feel the excited energy stirring about Patricia Green Cellar’s winery, warming up the cold facility rarely open to the public. Guests stood poised to taste her illustrious wines and with an odd twist of irony, I found myself alone on Valentine’s Day afternoon—a day typically spent honoring relationships, love and togetherness—celebrating Patricia Green’s 10-year anniversary punctuating her divorce from Torii Mor instead. In homage of the dispassionate occasion (one of the best break-ups on history I might add) Patty released her wickedly sinful, 2008 Nefarious Pinot Noir.

The 2008 Nefarious Pinot Noir ($85) was as beguiling as it was balanced. The wine opened with a soft fruit and lightly floral nose. In my mouth, blackberries gave way to ripe cherries, a touch of spice and playful acids, which swept across and awakened my sleepy tongue (it was barely noon, but already wine-o’clock for so many). The tannins were firm, showcasing the moderate structure, yet supple enough to provide a lush, velvety feel despite the wine’s youth. It was a nice wine, yes. But was it worthy of its lofty $85.00 price tag? Of that I’m not so sure.

I liked the wine and I loved the name, but for me, it was still missing a key component—a good label to tie it all together. It might seem trite to you, but being a graphic designer and marketing specialist, what it all boiled down to was that I was confused when I looked at the bottle. The wine’s called Nefarious, which means infamous by way of being extremely wicked, but the front label shows a soft, sweet and simple muted oil painting of Patty with her nose in a wine glass—is that supposed to signify nefarious? The label design felt like an afterthought, even more so when I looked up and saw the painting larger than life on the cellar wall… a bit incongruous and disappointing if you ask me. To come up with such a great concept and then fall through on the visuals and packaging felt like an enormous waste of a tremendous opportunity and my mouth was (and still is) literally salivating over the potential of such a campaign. Moving on and off my soapbox now.

The 2008 Notorious Pinot Noir ($70) showed similar themes of sweet and spice as Nefarious, but with more intensity and greater depth. Black fruit and plums immediately introduced themselves to me, while tart cranberries, truffles and a captivating white pepper finish snuck up from behind and made their presence known. I preferred Notorious to Nefarious and actually thought it seemed more wicked, more sinful and more decadent with its seductively ripe fruit and sneaky yet showy spice.

One of my favorite wines of the day was the 2008 Estate Old Vine Pinot Noir ($40) with wild berries, violets, great acid, subtle minerality and a brilliant, long finish. A showstopper in my book; the wine possessed tannins substantial enough to benefit from a little age, but to enjoy a bottle now would certainly be no crime. Patricia Green’s wines are consistently lovely and, if I had generous disposable income, I probably would have been right there alongside the others loading cases into my expensive car to take home and age in the temperature-controlled cellar. But, sadly I don’t… so feeling a bit like I was on The Walk of Shame, I left the winery escorting a lonely bottle of Old Vine Pinot Noir back to my practical Jeep instead… making my own small tribute to Patricia Green and the strength it took her to walk away.

We all know breaking up is hard to do. And in the professional setting, it can be that much harder. Patty’s tumultuous relationship with Torii Mor is one example of some of the unseen and unspoken challenges of working in the “glamorous” wine industry, and how ultimately to make it work to your benefit. Wineries are often small Mom-and-Pop shops, run by very passionate people (often families) with little room and even less stability for outsiders. People can easily become commodities and are far too easily replaceable (the line goes clear around the block, believe me!). Personally and unfortunately, I’ve been witness to and victim of some very unethical treatment in this industry and it’s probably for that reason I hold Patty in even higher regard, admiring her for taking a risk, believing in herself as a winemaker and stepping out on her own—may she serve as a model to us all. As if a message from the wine goddess, I happened to notice the bumper sticker on the car next to me— “Nullum Vinum Flaccidum” —and took note (and a photo) as I reminder to look up later. I learned the expression is Latin for “No Wimpy Wines;” almost poetically appropriate, no? Here’s to strength! Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Five Great Reasons to Celebrate with Zenith Pinot Noir

What could Oregon Pinot noir, redneck ski resorts and Washington State possibly have in common? They all came together in perfect harmony to become part of my epic day.

When Zenith Vineyard’s owner Tim Ramey gave me a bottle of his Zenith 2007 Barrel Select Pinot Noir as a gift, hoping to hear my thoughts back on his wine, I put the wine away… waiting for just the right occasion to open it. With plans for a weekend get-away to Washington, I sensed a moment in the making, and like the Travelocity gnome, I brought that bottle of Zenith with me from my home, to my in-laws, to the ski mountain, to the hotel and then to the restaurant, where it finally arrived at its final resting place on my dinner table. I’ll tell you what I thought of the wine, but first let me back up just enough to explain how I ended up beyond my jurisdiction in Eastern Washington… the land of Merlot, Syrah and Bordeaux-style blends celebrating with Oregon Pinot noir.

Headed off for a day’s skiing at Ski Bluewood, my husband Hunter was pulled over for speeding but then thankfully let off with a warning. Reason to celebrate Number One.

We arrive at Ski Bluewood (located 30ish miles from Walla Walla) and I was a little surprised to find it even smaller than my husband implied or remembered. There was basically one noisy, low-speed triple chair lift (quite possibly hand-cranked)… 15 minutes up the mountain, 3 minutes down. If I had to put a label on the place (and I guess I do), I’d call it a beginner’s hick mountain. The crowd consisted mostly of very loud and sometimes obnoxious, novice skiers. But, not a lift line was to be had at the single lift. Ski Bluewood was not the glitz and glamour capital of the ski world, and it didn’t have much vertical drop, but it did have some nice variation (groomed cruisers, ungroomed trees and gullies with lots of jumps that I didn’t take because I’m not 20 anymore) and who could complain about a day in the sun carving pretty turns in soft powdery fluff. Reason to celebrate Number Two.

Following our day on the slopes, Hunter and I checked into our suite at the historic Weinhard’s Bed & Breakfast in Dayton, Washington and popped open a bottle of very lush 2004 Ponzi Pinot Noir Reserve. Though I left the land of Pinot noir miles behind, somehow several bottles of Oregon Pinot still found their way onto my bags. What can I say? I don’t travel light. We soaked away the day’s aches and pains in the whirlpool tub before heading over to the local legend, Patit Creek to fill the empty void in our starving bellies. Reason to celebrate Number Three.

The Patit Creek was founded 32 years ago by husband-and-wife-team Bruce and Heather Hiebert and has gained a reputation for consistent, high quality, classic French cuisine… it didn’t disappoint. Phillip, our charismatic city-boy-come-rural waiter, asked me if I stole my shoes from their bathroom. Very confused and highly intrigued, I had to check out the ladies room and see what he was talking about. Mutual good taste and a penchant for hot shoes is what I discovered… reason to celebrate Number Four.

We started off our very decadent dinner with chevre-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon. The fat and savory qualities played beautifully against the substantial and mouth filling acids in the wine… a match made in heaven. The wine had a broad bouquet of cherry, strawberry and truffle, while the red fruit persisted in the glass with flavors of tart cranberry, raspberry and a subtle spicy and smoky charm. It was well structured, with light-to-medium viscosity and was an excellent pairing with Hunter’s filet, (though my lobster in citrus sauce would have been better suited with a good Chenin Blanc or Chardonnay). We toasted to a day of fulfillment and restoration and reveled in how wonderful a little time away from the kid can be. Reason to celebrate Number Five.

I believe wine should both heighten the meal and elevate the experience, and in this case, the Zenith Pinot Noir did both of those things. Even better though, is how this bottle of wine became a magical part of an idyllic outing. I’m not into numerology, but maybe, it’s all about the numbers or how it all ads up. After all, I had five very good reasons for celebrating, two glasses of fine Oregon wine with one first-rate meal, four sexy shoes, 24 hours away from our child, 99 photos and endless memories of a perfect day in Eastern Washington.You do the math.

If you have a bottle of wine you’d like me to experience, contact me for mailing address and please send it along; I’m always happy to share my honest impressions. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Sip with Me Goes Doppelganger a la Facebook

This week is Celebrity Doppelganger Week on Facebook. If you don’t know what that is, it’s this sorta creepy and ridiculous (but somehow fun) trend where you post a picture of your celebrity look-alike as your profile picture. For me, growing up in “The Valley” in the 80’s, it was always Martha Quinn from MTV (ha ha). So even though I hated being associated with her as a teenager, she looks quite cute to me from this side of 40, and at this moment, her photo is my Facebook profile picture.

Anyway, this Facebook development got me thinking about how in one of my prior posts, I refer to Archery Summit as the Princess Diana of wineries. Well, struggling to write my post this week, (and struggling with my project’s repetitiveness quite honestly) I’ve decided to go against my tradition, break my mold… do something completely different and perhaps even a bit off the wall. Today, there will be no tried and true format of honest winery experience, with details about the wines, yada yada yada. Sip with Me dedicates this blogpost to Facebook’s Celebrity Doppelganger Week! My sincere apologies if I offend anyone or if a winery feels glossed over, that's not my intent. Enjoyment is my only goal and my experience at each of these establishments was memorable and recommendable.

Namaste Vineyards = Woody Harrelson

A little bit hippy trippy, but a serious actor nonetheless.

Chateau Bianca = Minnie Driver

Is she English or is she American?

Van Duzer Vineyards - Daryl Hannah

 

One look at the Zephra – Goddess of Wind on their label and you get it.

Eola Hills Winery = Susan Lucci

 

This soap star won’t be invited to the Oscars,

but she has class and staying power.

Cherry Hill Winery = Lassie

Once again, the label speaks volumes so I don’t have to. This one honors their very own 

Daisy the dog (and notice the wineglass inpression on her forehead—it's genuine!).

In the same spirit of silly alter-egoness: On my way home from wine tasting today, I got behind a car whose license plate read “Mulva,” and referring back to one of the best Seinfeld episodes ever, I couldn’t help but wonder if her name was really Dolores (it rhymes with a female body part), and had a little giggle—I hope you do too. Until we sip again…

Cheers!