Combing Oregon's Countryside for Rhone Style Wines

Finding a bottle of top-quality Pinot noir in Oregon is easy, fortunately for you. And since May is Oregon Wine Month, you could easily go out and purchase a bottle of local Pinot noir in your favorite restaurant or wine shop. But don’t limit yourself to the famed grape. Rhône varietals thrive in Oregon, due in part to the diversity of Oregon’s weather. Read the rest of story to discover more about Oregon's Rhone style wines here at 1859 Magazine.

Anything But Pinot Gris - Oregon Whites For Summer Sipping

Now that summer may finally be here, the time for enjoying white wines with everything has finally arrived. So, in the spirit of the season, I've taken a closer look at some Oregon whites perfect for warm weather and lighter summer fare. Read about it on Cork'd.

Illahe - Is it the Name of a Winery or a Tropical Island?

Illahe, it sounds like it could be the name of some exotic island I wouldn’t mind being shipwrecked on, but it’s actually a Chinook jargon word meaning soil, earth or land. Illahe Vineyards and Winery, located in Dallas, Oregon, aims to produce wines reflecting the variety of soil, earth and land on their 50-acre estate.

Founder, Lowell Ford has always been a visionary, growing wine grapes in Oregon since 1983 and then helping to create the Northwest Viticulture Center at Chemeketa Community College.

One of the things that drew me to Illahe Vineyards initially was how creatively they go about being environmentally conscious; for instance, they use horse-drawn trailers to harvest their grapes (see my previous post 10 Oregon Wineries Making One Small Change). Their marketing brochure advertises how they crush their fruit using the traditional French method of pigeage. My understanding of traditional pigeage means that naked men press the ripe fruit and skins down with their feet. I didn’t ask how traditional their pigeage was, but I sure am wondering!

Bethany Williams started my tasting off with their 2009 Viognier aged entirely in stainless steel yet thick with tropical aromas of mango, pineapple, peach and banana and beautifully bright acidity. Illahe started producing this wine on a fluke, when they got some of the fruit from Albany for free (score of the century), and it’s turned out to be a real keeper. The 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley was deliciously mouthwatering and showed succulent raspberries, tart red cherries with a long, spicy cinnamon finish.

In honor of Earth Day, on the day I visited Illahe, there were several wineries showing their goods as well:

WildAire Cellars was founded in 2005 as the shared dream of Matt and Jean Driscoll of McMinnville, Oregon. The Driscolls produce their wines at Illahe’s winery and actually use some of Illahe’s fruit as well. The WildAire 2008 Timothy Pinot Noir, named in honor of Matt’s father who passed away two years ago, was clearly a fine tribute with lush flavors of wild raspberries, rainier cherries, vanilla and lovely yet lingering cinnamon spice. The 2008 Pinot Noir Reserve had considerably more new oak and showed a less fruit-forward and more complex nose of cherry, rhubarb, tobacco and rose.

Michael Lundeen is the owner, winemaker and viticulturalist for his tiny backyard vineyard, producing his Genius Loci wines at Illahe’s production facility (and is also Illahe’s winemaker). He grows the Pinot Gris for his 2008 Cuvee Desiree, which was aged in neutral oak and showed incredible depth with flavors of pear, almond, apple and ginger. When he told me he blends it with 5% Gewürztraminer, I better understood the spicy and savory notes underneath the fruit. The Genius Loci 2008 Pinot Noir was quite remarkable with a nose of blackberry bramble, cherries, tobacco, black tea and a floral delicacy that played against the kicky white pepper finish. The real star was his 2007 Syrah from Folin Vineyard; there was so much going on, I’m not sure where to start. First, I picked up two aromas, then four… next thing the wine’s exploding in my glass with plums, currants, licorice, chocolate and eucalyptus. The wine had a broad mouth, with medium-to-firm tannins and generous acidity that balanced out the fruit and spice flavors—gorgeous and memorable.

On my way out, I stopped and visited Illahe’s worker horses.They came up to say hi to me until they realized my carrot wasn’t a carrot after all, but a camera instead and tried to get away—say cheese! What I really wanted to do was climb up on one of their big, warm, bare backs and gallop down a remote, sandy beach somewhere. I mentioned my desire to escape to an exotic, tropical island, right? Perhaps if I said “Illahe, Illahe, Illahe” and clicked my heels together I’d get there. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Guest Blog: Sip with Me’s Best-Kept Secrets Revealed – Top 10 Oregon Value Wines

When I hear the words “value wine”, some of the first visual images that pop into my mind are those of jugs and boxes (no I’m not talking sexual innuendo here, sorry Clive). Value wine doesn’t have to mean cheap or unpalatable, but it should mean good wine at a good price. When Bernie Gehret of portlandoregonwine asked me to guest blog about some of my favorite Oregon “best values”, I was both honored and challenged. But I'm not going to tell you my 10 Oregon value wines and best kept secrets here, if you want to know you'll have to read the rest of the story here.

If I'm Pinot Noir, What Wine Are You?

“So, I was wondering, what Pinot Noir am I?” recently asked a friend. I told him first and foremost, he couldn’t possibly be Pinot Noir, because I am. But if you know anything about me by now, you know this conversation got the rusty old wheels turning. So, if I’m Pinot Noir (click here to see Pinot Noir’s qualities from my last post), what varietal of wine are you?

Do you have a knack for levity and tendency to lighten the moment with your witty presence? Why you must be Chardonnay!

Perhaps you’re Cabernet Franc… strong, masculine and most likely smelling like a combination of an old fogies’ stogie, moss and a leather armchair.

Sangiovese, you little Earth mama you. Expect to see this lass laden down with a rustic basket full of sun-ripened fruit and savory spices. She’s a bit hippy-like and often smells of campfire. Sometimes people call her crunchy, savory, or even acidic.

Riesling, you could be named Sybil, Eve (or Gewurztraminer for that matter), there are so many facets to you. One minute you’re sweet as honey and the next, you’re bone dry… no one will ever figure you out (but that won’t stop them from trying). You’re genuine, expressive, full of lively personality and you play well with food (wink, wink).

Oh yes, you have a reputation Pinot Grigio, but people just don’t know the real you. They misjudge you—think you lack character and backbone. Don’t worry my sweet; there are many who see your inner beauty.

If you see yourself as sharp, with an etched profile and would categorize yourself as “green”… you might be Sauvignon Blanc. If you enjoy casual hikes in the stone-filled, countryside or through tall, warm grasses while chewing on sprigs of herbs… you just might be Sauvignon Blanc.

Ever been called a wolf in sheep's clothing? Well, that would mean you’re Zinfandel. You look simple, but most of time, you’re just downright hot.

You’re easy-going, sometimes a bit soft but an all-around nice person. You may have been a bit of a wallflower growing up. When your mom described you, it was always how you were not like someone else (“Oh that Merlot, she’s definitely no Pinot or Syrah.”).

Speaking of Syrah: Syrahs are excellent muti-taskers; they work hard to show how diverse they can be. A bit like liquid incense… they’re exotic, heady and anything but one-dimensional. They love Autumn with its dried leaves and fruits and live for stews, slow-simmered braised meats and long walks in the rain.

People wouldn’t know it to look at you, but you really pack a punch. Yes, you may look like a poodle, but you’re all boxer. You have a wicked streak and sometimes come across to others as bitter… but you’re getting better with age. Your name is Nebiolo.

Viognier, with your Botticelli-like figure… you’re pure hedonism, lying there in pools of musk and honey, decadently feeding your lovers overly ripe apricots, guava, mango and passion fruit all day.

Oh, Muscat, you’re just a mimbo (male bimbo). You have a maturity about you but take pleasure in seducing all the old ladies with your predictably sweet perfumes.

Ahhhhhh, then there’s Cabernet Sauvignon—powerful, structured and intelligent, yet opulent, sensual and downright provocative—worth holding on to. You and your mysterious aura—with your mischievously spicy side—if only I could really get to know you. You’re utterly luscious and possess a profoundly captivating persona—mmmmmm, intoxicating. Oh baby, where have you been all my life?

Or maybe you’re just more of a mutt after all. A mixture of many different varietals… a blend, a cuvee, like Bordeaux. You’re classic, sophisticated and savvy, yet fun and always full of surprises.

I’ve taken the liberty of exploring a few wine personality types, but with an alphabet full of varieties, I could go on forever (I’ll spare you). If you haven’t identified with one of these, tell me what I’ve missed and which wine you are. In the end, take to heart the real beauty lies in attraction. Just like people, every once in a while you meet a wine so appealing and so mind-boggling, it quite possible changes your life forever. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Finding Freedom in Oregon Wine Country Tour

On the day I set out to meet newlywed friends Becky and Zack at Willamette Valley Vineyards, the countryside was both covered and quieted with fog thick as a shroud. Becky arrived ready for Oregon rain fully decked out in her trendy yellow galoshes free to splash in puddles as her heart so desired (missed photo opp number one).

Willamette Valley Vineyards is all about location, location, location. Just south of Salem, and ideally situated directly off I5, its sloping vineyards and watchtower facility regularly lure travelers from their destinations. Founded by visionary Jim Bernau in 1983, Willamette Valley Vineyards lies on a 50-acre estate of red Jory soil, where originally a plum orchard, blackberry bramble and scotch broom blanketing the land. The winery was built in 1989—that and the underground cellar were carved into an ancient volcanic flow (also part of what makes the soil so rich). Now owning more than 300 acres, Willamette Valley Vineyards has grown to become one of Oregon’s largest and most recognizable brands.

The winery offers public tours every day at 1:00 pm, but we were a bit early so we passed on the tour and stayed to taste—though I bet the tour would have been great and really feel like I missed something (if you plan to visit, keep this in mind)! Willamette Valley Vineyards is extremely focused on wine education and they’ve also built a new Wine Center in McMinnville complete with maps and information about the regional soils.

Katie, one of the friendly tasting room staff, greeted us with a pour of their 2006 Griffin Creek Viognier first and then their Chardonnay along with the classic story about how guests always say they don’t like Chardonnay until they try this Chardonnay… hmmmm, haven’t heard that one before. One thing about tasting with friends is you get honest feedback. I was tasting something unpalatable and indefinable in their Chardonnay which my friend Becky accurately termed “funk.” This is why I love tasting with friends. They not only tell you like it is, they even give you the words to accurately describe it—thank you Becky! Clearly not my favorite (or Katie’s, as she actually honestly admitted to us before our tasting – go Katie!!). My preferred wine was their 2007 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir, smooth yet luscious, beginning with a huge nose of black cherry, blackberries and vanilla and following with a mouthful of strawberries, cranberries, smoke, graham and spice.

When it was time to leave, I followed my friends for a change, as they were endowed/armed with internet and GPS. Driving along washboard dirt roads, my Jeep was smiling as she was getting splattered with mud, feeling at home again after years of city driving. Zack was enjoying his German automobile a bit too much and I was struggling to keep up with him, but he eventually led us directly to Ankeny Cellars and the all the glorious surprises in store for us there, thanks Zack.

If you’re ever in the market for a winery “experience” go to Ankeny Cellars. This time of year (winterish), the outdoor ambiance is more imagined, but located next to Ankeny Wildlife Refuge, one could envision sitting on their deck sipping wine while watching predatory and migratory birds flying overhead. In the dead of winter and pre-dawn of spring, it was still just a graveyard of trellis and vine beholding all the promise of the coming season.

Kathy “The Wine Duchess,” as she’s been nicknamed by Ankeny’s winemaker Andy Thomas, graciously poured for us. Planted in 1982 by Joe Olexa (who has four college degrees, none of which have anything to do with growing wine), the vineyard is located on the southernmost slopes of the Salem hills producing roughly 2,000 cases annually all from estate fruit (they also sell grapes to Kings Estate, Redhawk and Brooks). As Kathy poured us the 2006 Hershey’s Red Pinot Noir, she told us how Hershey the dog has sadly been missing since November 2009. A beautiful tribute to Hershey though, and at $15/bottle, this wine with cherry and tobacco flavors was a tremendous value.

Another wine easy on the wallet and of particular interest was the 2006 Ankeny Crimson. With its strong Port nose, this Marechal Foch-Pinot Noir blend was inky and heavy with dark fruit. It was truly an unexpected combination, and in the words of Kathy our host, “it’s like two wines in one” … fascinating, and at $12.00 bottle, not a real risky investment either. I didn’t particularly care for it, but my companions thought it was good. We all have different palates.

Kathy told us we could take a hike—up the hill that is, past the grapevines, goats, cows, llamas and emus, to a one-acre clearing of 85 marked and 12 unmarked graves comprising Cox Pioneer Cemetery. I later learned that the cemetery was founded by Thomas Cox, Salem’s first storekeeper, and that his wife Martha was the first person buried there in 1949. An old barn from 1851 still stands on the property today, which I didn’t see and am still remiss about that lost photo opp too… another time, perhaps when the weather is fairer.

My friends and I parted ways as they continued to explore some regional favorites while I had the sweet wines of Honeywood Winery on my radar. I ventured back into the Salem hills once again GPS-free and flying by my own instincts and the seat of my pants. Quite miraculously, and without so much as a wrong turn, I arrived at Honeywood’s Salem winery.

Honeywood Winery officially opened the day after prohibition ended making it the oldest continually operating winery in Oregon. Founded in 1933 by Ron Honeyman and John Wood, it was originally called Columbia Distilleries (producing brandies, cordials and liquors), and though they objected to the merging of their names, somehow—and naturally—Honeywood stuck.

The winery offered an enormous selection of wines (18 different varietals!), above and beyond the mead and 34 fruit wines they’re famous for. When you’re handed a list with over 50 wines and told to select five, even the experienced taster is overwhelmed. I had no idea what I wanted to taste, I’ve never been there before—I really wanted to taste it all… or most of it. Well, actually I really don’t want to taste 34 different fruit wines (how many ways can you spell berry, ugh?), but five wines really didn’t give me enough of a chance to taste what the winery has to offer either. Of what I did taste, I enjoyed a non-vintage Muller Thurgau tart with lime and a touch of warm anise. As I drove away, I started thinking about those fruit wines and how I bet they’d be great for cooking—sauces, syrups, dressings and marinades of the most memorable kind! Hmmm, great thought… too bad it was moments too late.

I also thought more on tasting in the southern Willamette Valley. In addition to enjoying some great Oregon wines, you won’t break the bank and you’ll also find educational tours, history, hikes and beautiful settings to enjoy it all. I always treasure my drives through wine country; the roads are open and long and even with the windows closed, there’s this sense of having the wind in your hair—I guess it’s a feeling of freedom. I saw a huge Red Tail Hawk on a fence post right off the road, so I pulled over to try and capture his magnificent image on digital film. He sat still while I changed lenses on my camera and he sat still while I slowly and casually approached him. And as soon as I got close enough and brought my camera up towards my face, he was off with the swiftness of a glider, the grace of a ballerina and the sheer power of an airplane. I pouted a bit thinking the day’s theme seemed to be about missed opportunities, but as I saw the hawk flying off into the distance, I realized it was really about the glorious gift of freedom instead. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Getting Lost in Oregon's Wine Country

If you’re longing to visit wine country but the thought of traffic and crowds are deterring you, consider Amity, Oregon. Off the beaten path, with long, winding and empty country roads, scenic valley views and exceptional wine—Amity could just very well be the wine chaser’s dream tour. Located one hour south of Portland, or 20 minutes northwest of Salem, this tour begins at Bethel Heights Vineyards.

Family owned and operated since 1977 by two families, Bethel Heights produces only estate-grown wines (meaning they don’t bring in fruit from anywhere else). Though there was a slight chill to the air, the sun was beginning to warm up the view from the expansive deck overlooking the vineyards, cities of Salem and Keizer, and even Mt. Jefferson was making a grand appearance. The name Bethel Heights pays tribute to the history of the land, going back to 1909 when it was originally known as Bethel Heights Walnut Grove. A few of the original walnut trees remain dotting the edges of the vineyard.

An adorable kitty named Jellybean was making a rare appearance in the tasting room, which was open and airy yet warm and woody, with vaulted ceilings and a large fireplace making it feel like more an Aspen cabin—except for the vineyard view of course. The wines were luxurious and rather remarkable. One wine I found delightful was the 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé. This wine was seductive and alluring with essences of strawberries, raspberries and rose petals followed by a suggestion of cream and spice. The acids were bright and food friendly, making the wine a simple food complement… really, what wouldn’t it pair with? The 2006 Pinot Noir Justice Vineyard was quite bold and very fruit forward (typical of that vintage), lush and full of Bing cherries, wild raspberries and sweet strawberries. The racy acids in most Pinot noirs, which this wine had as well, are what make it possible to hold its own against many different foods and is a good part of what make this varietal so popular.

The French have centuries of experience pairing wine and food and at this point intuitively know how eating salmon, game, pork, turkey, fruit, mushrooms, breads, cheese and even chocolate can all be enhanced by serving it with Pinot noir. The 2007 Pinot Noir Casteel Reserve had lots of black fruit on the nose, as well as a little blackberry cordial, spice cake and smatterings of some pine and crushed leaves in the background. It was all black cherries and spice through the mouth, with soft tannins that left a silky texture and balanced acids to give it added structure and ageability. Though I could have stayed all day soaking in the sun from their deck, I was on a quest, so off I went to St. Innocent.

Drive up to St. Innocent Winery and you might wonder if you’re in Oregon anymore. The European-style chateau is so massive and grand; it looks just a bit out of place against the farm-rich agricultural area. St. Innocent Winery is located on the Zenith Vineyard, which offers one of the finest wedding event facilities I’ve seen in Oregon, accommodating as many as 500 guests. St. Innocent founder and winemaker Mark Vlossak produces seven single-vineyards Pinot noirs, a cuvee, and a handful of whites with the intent on preserving higher acid levels to complement and extend the pleasure of a meal. The winery is named for Mark’s father (whose middle name was Innocent after being born on All Innocents Day) who gave him an instinctual feel for what wine was about. With gorgeous copper bars, an outdoor patio and huge fountain; the grounds are romantic and make a lasting impression.

With eleven gorgeous wines (nine of which were Pinot noirs), I’m only going to mention my hands-down favorite, which was the 2007 Winemakers Cuvee, one of their only blends. While single-vineyard designates can be lovely and uniquely expressive of location, there is real art in blending that only certain winemakers understand and can fully achieve. This wine was a show-stopper, both elegant and strong, aromas of dark cherries, wild flowers, mushrooms and creamy chocolate rose from the glass like a snake-charmer’s cobra rising to the sound of his magic flute. At first taste, my mouth was practically assaulted by delicious flavors of sweet brambleberries, nutmeg, white pepper and toasted hazelnuts that lingered long and pleasantly in my mouth. I felt a bit sorry for the tasting room associate who was doing his best to handle the busy and docile crowd, but wasn’t very efficient and was frustratingly slow. Finally getting some back-up relief as I was on my way out the door, I imagined it was much different for the next guests and I marveled at how the experience is completely unique to each and every guest that walks through the door. I heard St. Innocent offers a buffet over the Thanksgiving weekend that’s not to be missed and with that big holiday looming around the corner, and special winery events, it’s not too early to start making those wine country plans.

Speaking of not to be missed is Cristom Vineyards, located on a 65-acre estate overlooking the seven distinct vineyards named for the matriarchs of the family and Mt. Jefferson. The name Cristom honors owners Paul and Eileen Gerrie children—Christine and Tom. The winery is an intriguing combination of old- and new-world utilizing many architecturally restored components; including the bar, marble, chandeliers and the immense wooden antique doors that welcome you (which are more than 250 years old, having been salvaged from a French chateaux).

Cristom founder Paul Gerrie and Winemaker Steve Doerner are advocates of tradition and yet still challenge themselves by experimenting both in the cellar and vineyards. In fact, they were the first vineyard to plant Viognier in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Viognier is typically found in warmer climates, but Cristom has been ripening up several acres for the last few vintages and producing a very pretty wine. The 2007 Estate Viognier smelled of juicy peaches, orange zest and honeysuckle. I loved the texture—it was slightly viscous and tasted rich of pears, apples, apricots and some subtle Hawaiian pineapple on the lovely finish.

I also was quite taken with the 2006 Louise Vineyard Pinot Noir that showed dark color and lots of black plum and currants initially, but when I paid close attention, I picked up vanilla, cola, chocolate and pepper that seemed to take a mini-vacation on my tongue. When I was returning to my car, I saw the most amazing avian display—thousands of starlings were swooping and soaring in frenzy over what I assume was the rotting fruit left on the vines post-harvest. Wishing for my own mini-vacay, I drove off down the road. I wish I could say it was into the sunset of the wild blue yonder—close, it was actually to Witness Tree Vineyard.

Drive up to Witness Tree Vineyard and look straight up to the top of the hill. There, presiding over the vineyard, stands the ancient and lacy white oak tree for which the 52-acre vineyard and winery are named. Legend has it; the 250-year-old heritage tree predates the arrival of the first white settlers in the area and is also one of the few trees that survived the annual and traditional burning of the land by the Calapooya Indian Tribe in the mid 1800’s. Though it was pretty, and I was far away, for a 250-year-old tree, it honestly didn’t look all that big or impressive to me, but apparently it was a designated surveyors landmark in 1854.

Witness Tree Vineyard , founded by Dennis and Carolyn Devine, is nestled in the Eola Hills and produces only 100% estate wines, not purchasing any fruit from any other growers. Offering ten different wines, I had my tasting work cut out for me. I was a bit concerned when I tasted the 2007 Pinot Blanc and thought it was a Riesling… perhaps my palate was getting a bit fried (this was actually winery number eight that day), but I was getting hard petroleum instead of subtle fragrant white flowers when I put my nose to the glass. The 2007 Witness Tree Estate Pinot Noir set my mind at ease, with an intense ruby color; it showed tremendous grace and style. It seems vineyards in this area produces a lot of black fruit and chocolate characters, and this wine was just following suit with seductive vanilla and spice for added complexity. The nose on this wine was as divine as the owner’s name, but at $28, it was a good price point for Oregon Pinot noir—and though it’s their most widely distributed wine and easily accessible at the retail level and I usually try to select wine you can only purchase at the winery, I bought a bottle anyway. My thought was: It’s still straight from the source—never having seen warm trucks, bright lights or supermarket shelves. Witness Tree also make estate Viognier, Chardonnay, Single-vineyard designate Pinot noir, Dolcetto and a very sweet but interesting ice-style dessert wine. All I needed was some Oregonzolla and I could have called it a day—but not without a visit to Stangeland Winery and Vineyards first.

Stangeland Winery and Vineyards was a very interesting experience for me, but I’ll share more about that in a bit. First off, let’s make sure we’re all pronouncing it correctly, because at first glance, it might look like Strangeland, but it’s definitely not strange at all. Stangeland is actually named for a Norwegian region and you’ll find Norway’s flag flying in the tasting room that was located directly next to French and Bulgarian oak barrels whose bellies were swollen full with the current vintage. Owner Larry Miller told me how he was the only Oregon winery to receive three gold and three silver medals out of over 1,000 entries from 22 different countries at the World Pinot Noir competition in Switzerland… good on you Larry, that is quite an accomplishment.

I tasted a 2005 Chardonnay that was displaying some interesting and unusual banana notes and several different vintage Pinot noirs—but I must confess, I sadly took horrible notes. I did purchase (and already enjoyed) a 2005 Pinot Noir Estate which was actually a very big wine for a Pinot, but gorgeous and luscious with sweet black cherries, leather, truffles, herb and spice notes… wow.

So, the interesting part of the experience and probably the reason for my horrible notes was this: There I am drinking wine, doing my thing when I turn around and see this young, hot, blonde Adonis standing there (actually his name was Roby). He really looks like Smith Jarret, Samantha’s boy toy from Sex and the City, if you were a fan. Distracting me from what I really should be doing there, and probably against my better judgment, I spoke with Roby and came to find out that he leads one of those romantic and totally unrealistic lifestyles. Living vicariously through him for just a moment, I hung on baited breath as he told me how he flits back and forth between wine country and ski country… depending on the season, never putting down any real roots. Oh to be young again and without responsibilities. He’s worked this past season in Stangeland’s winery and tasting room but was off that day and just in for Harvest dinner, which ultimately was probably a good thing for me, because he could have easily talked me into a case (or more)! Clever direct sales strategy grasshopper.

On the way home from a very full day, I was enjoying the serene, back-country roads opening up in front of me, getting lost first in my thoughts and then directionally as well. Trying to find my way on a small map not drawn to scale with no clearly marked roads wasn’t the best idea, driving around a new region. Okay, lesson learned. Suck it up and buy a GPS already or get a better map—though I can think of so many worse things than getting lost in the Eola-Amity Hills. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Eastern Oregon Wine Trip Teaches About Importance of Family

My most recent exploration of Oregon wineries brought me to the eastern side of the state; to a place where arid desert butts up against the fertile farmland of the Walla Walla River valley. Taking advantage of a trip to visit my in-laws in eastern Washington, Hunter and I set off (without child in tow) to conquer Milton-Freewater, a small town this side of the Oregon/Washington state line, just eight miles south of Walla Walla, Washington.

Milton-Freewater was originally two independent, agricultural towns that merged in the mid-1800s. Thriving on water runoff from the Blue Mountains to the mighty Columbia River, the long growing season and the fertile volcanic and sedimentary soil, the small town farms wheat, apples, cherries and wine grapes and now boasts four wonderful wineries to visit. We started our tour at Zerba Cellars, which was founded by Cecil and Marilyn Zerba, who both grew up in Walla Walla and whose local lineage dates back to the 1850s.

Zerba Cellar’s tasting room is located right off the main road in a charming and eco-friendly log cabin made from massive, already-fallen Western Juniper logs, designed appropriately by Storm Carpenter of John Day, Oregon. There was an expansive deck with hewn log benches overlooking the vineyards, which were all still netted to protect the past season’s grapes from bird predation. Zerba recently finished completion of a large cave for underground wine storage and they intend on expanding the outdoor seating with a new patio as well. Zerba owns three vineyards within three separate and distinctive AVAs, allowing for a variety of grapes, character and unique flavors to come through in their wines.

Tasting Room Manager Paul Samson was pouring wines in the cabin, and for but a few precious moments before a large bachelorette party arrived, we had his complete and focused attention. While an adorable Australian shepherd named Ranch Dog sauntered about taking tummy rubs from anyone offering, Paul poured us through his impressive and rather extensive portfolio.

With more than twenty wines in production, we didn’t taste them all, but we still sampled quite a few too many to mention, so I will just taper it down to the highlights, which will be challenging enough. The first was a very memorable 2008 Semillon. Completely dry (though they also make a late-harvest sweet version as well), aromas of Golden Delicious apples, figs and honey wafted up from my glass. In my mouth, I tasted clean, bright citrus and honey, which transformed into lingering aftertastes of white peach and dried apricots. I also loved Zerba’s 2008 Viognier. Blended with 25% Chardonnay, the wine had a beautiful golden hue, a fragrance of citrus, honeysuckle and peach and a creamy mouth full of green apple, citrus and green melon. The next wine that caught my fancy was a 2007 Mourvedre that was blended with ten-percent Syrah and ten-percent Grenache. This was a big, red wine indicative of what this region is able to grow. Rich with plums, currants, raisins and black cherry, the wine had firm tannins that will continue to soften out with time, but was lush, fruity and ridiculously enjoyable. Zerba’s highest production wine is their Wild Z, a Bordeaux and Syrah blend, the 2006 vintage showed strawberries and pomegranate on the nose, while blueberries, blackberries, earth and white pepper showed strong on the palate. A fruit-forward wine, that I call a no-brainer—one that doesn’t require too much thought—it pairs well with a variety of foods and just drinks great on its own. Paul told us about and gave us directions to another Oregon winery that just opened a tasting room nearby, so we added it to our itinerary, said our goodbyes and continued on into downtown Milton-Freewater.

You wouldn’t think it would be difficult finding a street in a town with less than a dozen of them, but somehow with my husband’s keen sense of direction, Hunter and I took the scenic route through town a bit before finally discovering the old Watermill building. Located just in front of the old landmark is the newly built Watermill Winery. Founded by Earl and Lorraine Brown and established in 2005, Watermill is one of the first wineries in Milton-Freewater. Now third-generation farmers, they produce apples, award-winning hard apple cider (which you can also taste in their tasting room), wine grapes and world-class wines crafted by Rich Funk (of Saviah Cellars) and Andrew Brown.

Crystal was slinging wines from behind Watermill’s smooth and ultra-sleek concrete bar with an obvious love of the product and extensive knowledge of both her region and her brand. She started us off with a 2007 Viognier which I thought displayed aromatics of lemon zest and floral notes with flavors of honey, grapefruit and lemon and acids that did a little jig across my tongue.

One of things I love most about wines from this region, aside from the exceptional quality and variety, is the tremendous value. Watermill’s most expensive wine (which earned 93 points from Wine Enthusiast) was only $30.00. That wine, the 2006 Praying Mantis Syrah (named for the jumpy creatures living happily in the vineyard that year) had a deep, dark jammy color, was well structured with medium tannins and was loaded with blackberries, tobacco and spicy anise. I imagined this wine would pair beautiful with barbeque, grilled meat or even with some chocolate at the end of a meal.

I also enjoyed a 2007 Malbec that wasn’t on the tasting menu yet, but showed beautifully with raisins, currants, wild huckleberries, vanilla and white pepper on the silky, long finish. Another standout was the 2006 Estate Midnight Red with 60% Cabernet, and 10% each of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot; a very pleasing blend with a nose full of blueberries, chocolate and oregano, abundant sweet tastes of marionberries with just a hint of smokiness on the finish. (By the way Crystal, Watermill’s Viognier was the first wine I opened when I returned home. And as you saw by my Tweet, it didn’t even last a week! But it was even better than I remembered.)

Leaving the downtown area and passing vineyards whose reddish-brown leaves had given up every drop of life and were hanging there, as if in suspense, waiting their turn to float gracefully to the cemetery of leaves on the ground below, we followed Paul’s directions and pulled into Milton-Freewater’s newest winery (opened for just their third weekend). Located just off the State-line, we found the breathtaking Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard and Winery. The estate vineyard was in its infantile stages and won’t be productive for a few more years, but the open expanse and magnificent view of Oregon’s Blue Mountains made the outdoor patio an oasis in the desert, literally.

Greeted by Spanish music and a brand new and majestic tasting room that somehow exuded an Old-world quiet beauty, winemaker Ryan Raber told us the beautiful story behind the wine. I hope I do it justice in my retelling. Owners Sam and Deb Castillo wanted the winery’s design to capture the ambiance of Andalucía, a region in southern Spain, where the brilliant blue ocean waters meet the stark white buildings with aging terracotta roofs.

The wines are inspired by their Spanish ancestry but also pay attention to what does well in this region. Castillo de Feliciana, whose name translates to “Castle of Happiness”, is named for the family and as a tribute to Deb’s great Aunt Feliciana who never had children of her own. When Deb was a small girl visiting her great Aunt, she would always get some gum from her Aunt's old black leather purse. One day, over a glass of red wine, memories of her Aunt and that purse flooded her. She smelled the fruit from the gum, roses like the floral face powder, mustiness from age, tobacco and leather. To Deb, these smells together evoked memories of her childhood and she began referring to that smell as “an old lady purse” smell—but not just any old lady’s purse smell, the smell of her Aunt Feliciana’s purse. That black purse has become an icon for the brand and is located prominently above the logo like a crest.

The wines were simply lovely. The 2008 Pinot Grigio was 100% stainless-steel fermented and bright with pear, lychee fruit and white flowers. There was an interesting minerality in the mouth and bright acids that carried this wine well. The 2008 Viognier, aged partially in neutral oak, at first smelled of fresh brioche and then opened up with nectarines and cream and a suggestion of lasting tropical fruit (kind of like an Ever-lasting Gobstopper!). The 2007 Semillon exploded with a bouquet of honeysuckle, apricots and rip figs. The 2007 Tempranillo was superb, with black fruit flavors of plum, cherry and currants. The flavor, spice, acidity and tannins were brilliantly integrated and left me longing for a bottle and a big bowl of paella. Ryan finished us off with the 2007 Miercoles, an everyday red and blend of Cabernet Sauvignon an Syrah with fruity tastes of red raspberry, cassis as well as lots of pepper, chocolate, smoke and sweet herbs. I admire the Castillo’s vision and see how they have courageously made their dream into reality. Buena suerte.

Our final scheduled stop was at the Otis Kenyon tasting room located on Main Street in Walla Walla (Otis Kenyon’s vineyards and winery are in Oregon, so I figured it counted). The old-west town was crowded for Parents Weekend at Whitman College, and if you looked down the street with the original brick structures dating back the late 1800s to the early 1900s, it was easy to imagine the once dusty streets, horse-drawn carriages, saloons and even the occasional shoot-out. With deep historical ties to the Walla Walla Valley, the Otis-Kenyon family is no stranger to the ghost stories of this region.

Legend has it, in the early 1900s, James Otis Kenyon was a struggling dentist in Milton-Freewater who literally burned his competition to the ground. Ostracized and ashamed, his wife told their two sons their father was dead and moved to Walla Walla. Nearly 50 years later, James Otis Kenyon’s grandson Steve unearthed the truth and discovered his grandfather was alive and living on the Oregon coast. James Otis Kenyon was later reunited with his two sons, witnessed the birth of his first great-grandchild Muriel (who told us this fantastic story) and happily lived to the ripe old age of 101. The label is a tribute to James Otis Kenyon; and with burned edges and bearing his silhouette; his story and memory truly live on.

Muriel mentioned some startling statistic about how much Oregon fruit is in the Washington wines and I realized it’s all six of one, a half dozen of the other. How many Oregon wineries buy their fruit from Washington? What it comes down to is a very simple premise: premium fruit knows no boundaries; state lines are figments of our own creation.

Muriel poured a 2006 Merlot that was the perfect combination of robust, sweet cherries, tart cranberries with added layers of smoke, caramel and spice on the finish. The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 19 months in new and neutral oak and showed off plums, pomegranate, cinnamon and clove that warmed your mouth and conjured up images of snuggling by a cozy fire on a cold winter’s night. The 2006 Syrah was a delight with complex elements of blackberry, cassis, cocoa, pepper and baked earth coming through in every sip and smell. Lastly was the 2006 Malbec (destined to be for their wine club members only), which had an intense deep purple, inky color, complementary dark flavors of dark plum, black cherry and raspberry and interesting notes of peppery spice and cured meat.

World-class wines and small-town hospitality, another winning combination. After we had a conversation about Wine Wipes (a product that removes purple wine stains from your teeth) wondering if it would work for Wine Horns as well (the Welch’s grape-juice looking extended smile) and neon-purple teeth that glowed in the dark, Muriel made a few dinner suggestions and then went to the added trouble of writing the restaurant’s phone numbers down so we could try to get an early reservation… the exceptional service was greatly appreciated.

Taking Muriel’s advice, we walked over to Saffron, who at 5:00pm, was already booked solid for the night. Much to our elated surprise (but perfectly in line with a day where every little thing seemed to fall magically into place), the beautiful hostess squeezed us in anyway. Saffron was like a little slice of the Mediterranean, focusing on using seasonal, local, organic and all natural ingredients whenever possible. They make their own bread, flatbread, pastas, cured meats and sausages in-house — and those quality details didn’t go unnoticed. The wine list was a good mix of local and Mediterranean wines that paired brilliantly with their flavorful food and the open kitchen, with exposed brick and Champagne riddling racks for tables, created a warm, sophisticated and inviting atmosphere.

While enjoying our dinner of tapas, Hunter and I were reliving the day, recapping some of the best moments. The conversation turned to Zerba’s Paul Samson and his great sense of style and when I admitted I thought he was handsome, Hunter remarked how he liked Paul’s cute cap and then even confessed he had his own little man-crush on Paul. Some wine, some food and all the secrets come pouring out.

With bellies full and eastern Oregon wineries visited, we returned once again to the bosom of our family. One of the many things I enjoy about visiting my in-laws in Richland, Washington (aside from their pampering ways) is their proximity to some of the best and virtually undiscovered wine regions on the West Coast. Just minutes from my husband’s childhood home is the Red Mountain AVA (think Seth Ryan, Fidelitas and Col Solare) and wineries of the Tri-cities (Bookwalter, Barnard Griffin…), Prosser (Hogue and Snowqualmie…), Yakima Valley wineries and of course Walla Walla (home of the legendary Leonetti, Abeja and Woodward Canyon, just to name a few). With all that amazing wine nearby, what I find myself coming back to again and again in this post (and so I guess my lesson) is the stories and the importance of family. I’ve been beautifully reminded this weekend through wine labels (with indelible black purses and burned images) to not only hold dear memories close to the heart but share them with others, paying tribute to each of our family stories… and through subsequent generations, those memories can live on forever. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Living La Dolce Vita… in Carlton

Driving along the back-country roads past farmhouses where livestock aplenty roam sprawling acreage, I couldn’t help but reminisce about my years living in the remote countryside of southwestern Colorado where my daily commute was more like a scenic route along similar roads, past similar farmhouses with similar sprawling acreage.

I pulled into the quaint little town of Carlton with one blinking stoplight and a quiet demeanor. I immediately noticed the Tyrus Evan tasting room in the old train Depot and since traditionally train stations would be the first impression visitors had of a town, I figured it would be an appropriate first stop for me as well.

Built in 1923, the notable historic Depot is experiencing a new revival as a tasting room for Tyrus Evan’s wines. But once upon a time, it was Carlton’s “Red Electric Car Station,” established as a way station along the Southern Pacific Railroad between Portland and St. Joseph to help farmers get their produce to the nearby cities without having to travel such great distances. The Old-West feeling has been beautifully and authentically preserved and is seen throughout the Victorian-era building, from structural features to western-themed décor which also vividly and almost painfully reminded me of the establishments in the old-western town of Durango, Colorado where I lived before landing in Oregon.

Legendary Oregon Pinot noir winemaker Ken Wright crafts Tyrus Evan wines and the label is named for his two sons (their middle names actually) who may one day take the helm. In the meantime, Ken has a chance to work with some warmer-climate varietals specializing in big, juicy, expressive and mouth-watering Syrahs and Clarets (varietal blends also known as Bordeaux) using fruit from friends with some of the best vineyard sites in the Pacific Northwest. Depending on the vintage, Ken also makes Viognier, Chardonnay and individual bottlings of Cabernet Franc or Malbec.

The inviting and comfortable tasting room features a traditional parlor area with plush seating which was occupied by a group amusing themselves on a perfectly lazy Sunday afternoon with a variety of board games, wine and a lovely cheese plate complete with pepper jelly and dried pears (available for purchase). The wines were presented in individual glasses on a clever tasting placemat printed with each of the wine’s vintage, varietal (or blend), vineyards and price. Tyrus Evan has given new meaning to the marketing term “branding” as their label itself ingeniously looks like a cattle brand. Ken plans on keeping production small, but as the secret gets out, I’m not sure how possible that will be.

The real beauty of downtown Carlton, besides the obvious and external visual beauty, is that it’s a destination in and of itself. With tasting rooms, restaurants and shops all within a few-block’s walk, I just parked my car and wandered the town for the day. I found my way into Scott Paul Wines, where in striking contrast to the soothing, “days of yore” feeling of Tyrus Evan, the more contemporary bustling bar was offering up a Scott Paul Pinot noir as well as a variety of French Burgundy imports to taste.

Founders and proprietors Martha and Scott Wright were both behind the bar sharing their passion, their story and their wines. Founded first in 1999, they built their current winery and tasting room in 2005 (complete for the 2006 vintage which is on their current tasting menu) in two buildings dating back to 1915 when they were used as a granary and creamery. The original granary roof was recycled and used for both the tasting room ceiling and bar front—serving its purpose decoratively, artistically and functionally.

Because Scott Paul is a direct national importer for small family producers in Burgundy France, what they do special, (in addition to their elegant Pinot noir which is true to both location and the classic French style) is offer guests the experience of tasting Old World and New World Pinot noir side by side. The French Pinots were lovely, but I’m not going to remark on them because they’re not part of my Oregon tour of wine. The 2006 Scott Paul La Paulee Pinot Noir was inviting and somewhat mysterious. The ‘06 vintage produced wines that were concentrated, big and fruity, as was this one. Though lacking any real earthy characteristics, there was a beautiful, soft under-layer of roses, strawberries and pepper that made the wine bold while maintaining its finesse; a good example of balance. The wine was a blend of four different vineyards sites from all over the Willamette Valley including the prized Shea, Ribbon Ridge, Momtazzi and Stoller Vineyards. I left Scott Paul thinking about how everyone has their own unique story; and like all stories, some are better than others.

Solena has one of the most romantic stories by far. In 2000, Laurant and Danielle Andrus Montalieu purchased an eighty-acre estate as a wedding gift to each other. The story goes that instead of registering for traditional gifts like china, crystal and silver, the couple registered for clones of Pinot noir to plant their vineyard. Ultimately, I guess all the love of their family and friends can be found in each of the vines and each individual cluster of grapes. Solena, named for the couple’s daughter, is a combination of two names meaning “sun” and “moon”, and to the Montalieus it represents the celebration of life. They also own and operate NW Wine Company which is a custom winemaking facility located in McMinnville where small producers can use state of the art equipment to vinify their wines. The Montalieus are also preparing to open a brand new winery and tasting room in Yamhill (as to whether they’ll continue with their downtown location, has still yet to be decided).

Lynnette was pouring the wine in the tasting room that day, and though she slyly confessed to me it was only her third day, her understanding of the brand and the wines was that of a seasoned professional. Solena makes an estate Pinot noir and sources the rest of the fruit for a full portfolio of wines making for a new tasting experience every time you visit. While I really enjoyed all the wines, the one that struck me the most was the 2007 Grand Cuvee. At only $25, this value-driven wine didn’t lack in quality one bit. The deep, ruby color was enhanced with the aromas of pie cherries and sweet strawberries with nuances of floral and spice. The bright acids in this lively wine reminded me of how good Pinots are enhanced by lighter foods like fish, pork and chicken, and I thought the ’07 Grand Cuvee would be the perfect food complement, so I bought a bottle for the collection.

Located in the old bank building, circa 1910, you’ll find The Tasting Room and EIEIO, named by owner and winemaker Jay “Old” McDonald that is the oldest tasting room in Carlton. I really enjoyed the use of the original bank vault as a wine cellar holding nearly 50 different Northwest varietals.  I was confused and slightly put off when the manager explained to me she didn’t honor industry discounts because she was a retail outlet. If they’re the tasting room for EIEIO and sell other wine too, how was that different from any other tasting room in the Valley?

I left pondering this dilemma but quickly forgot when I arrived at Troon Vineyard’s tasting room located on N. Kutch, just off the main drag. The organically grown vineyards are located in the Applegate Valley near Grants Pass, Oregon and they just completed a brand new winery facility with tasting room and full kitchen where you can taste at the source. The Carlton tasting room allows the winery to reach an even larger audience though and they will continue their Carlton presence.

Troon’s tasting room was large and interesting with unfinished cement walls and enormous cement bins holding at least a pallet of wine in each. Karissa kindly poured me through the current flight; which started with a classic 2008 Viognier smelling of pear and green apple with lingering tastes of apricot and lemon grass. I also enjoyed the 2005 Blossom Fire Cabernet Reserve; which if I closed my eyes, it very well could have been a bowlful of plums, black cherries, licorice and toffee-covered hazelnuts. The 2007 Druids Fluid is the winery’s bestseller. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Zinfandel and Syrah, this fruit-forward wine was pleasing with a mouthful of sweet, chocolate covered cherries and red raspberries. Hunter and I enjoyed a bottle on that early fall evening with a hearty chili con carne which warmed us to the bone. You know I’m not the biggest fan of stickies (sweet wines), so I was somewhat reluctant when I saw a Tempranillo Port on the tasting horizon. Troon removed all doubt from my mind with their lovely and distinguished 2007 Insomnia Port. Paired with Honest Chocolate’s truffles, the wine was ripe with flavors of dates, currants, candied apples and amaretto and was the perfect end to the perfect day. My lesson for the day was simple. Never question or never turn down a little dolce. Until we sip again…

Cheers!