A Variety of Tasting Panels at Feast Portland to Tempt You

Feast Portland. The name about says it all. For a weekend full of OTT culinary madness, it's the event guaranteed to deliver. It's also less than two weeks away and if you haven't purchased tickets yet, many of the hot events have long sold out.

But you're in luck because tickets are still attainable for some of the more affordable Tasting Panels. Think Chardonnay, Negronis, Sour Beer, Beans and Booze (and by beans, they mean coffee beans), Lagers and Tiki Cocktails. And if you're anything like me, than tasting experiences are right up your dark alley. So, check the schedule and reserve your space before these sell out too. Follow @FeastPdx on Twitter for ticket giveaways and event news.

Chardonnay is For Lovers:

Friday, Sept 19th - Noon-1pm

Portland Art Museum Evans H. Roberts Sculpture Hall $55

Forget about California Butter Bombs. Let Bon Appétit’s Wine Insider, David Lynch, lead you through a tasting of some of the Oregon’s best bottles and show you why Anything But Chardonnay is no way to drink.

Still not convinced? Featuring some of Oregon’s finest Chardonnay producers such as Evening Land, Bergstrom, and Chehalem. The other four? It's a secret now, but buy your ticket and enjoy the surprise.

A Walk on the Sour Side

Friday, Sept 19th - 2pm-3pm

Portland Art Museum Evans H. Roberts Sculpture Hall $55

Sour beers are often been called “The Wine Drinker’s Beer?” Enjoy one of my favorite producers, Ale Apothecary’s Sahalie, as well as The Common’s Trillium, sure to tempt even the most ardent wine lover in the audience. Pucker up!

Negroni O'Clock

Friday, Sept 19th - 4pm-5pm

Portland Art Museum Evans H. Roberts Sculpture Hall $55

Any time is Negroni O'Clock. Whether a brunch worthy quaffer, an afternoon delight or a last-call nightcap, learn how the classic Negroni can be transformed for all times of the day. Enjoy four different styles of the classic Negroni. For example, a breakfast version that's a twist on the Belllini featuring some local producers like Aria Dry Gin and Imbue Petal & Thorn Vermouth blended with a puree of local peaches.

Beans and Booze

Saturday, Sept 20th - 12:45-1:45pm

Portland Art Museum Evans H. Roberts Sculpture Hall $55

Coffee and spirits are two great favorite buzz-worthy ingredients.Enjoy local legends Stumptown Coffee Roasters, House Spirits Distillery and industry titans Jeffrey Morgenthaler and Alex Negranza. Bring your mugs and your martini glasses folks. You’re gonna get buzzed.

As a guest, you’ll be able to taste Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s infamous espresso martini without having to wait in line!

Tastes Great. Less Filling

Saturday, Sept 20th - 2:30-2:30pm

Portland Art Museum Evans H. Roberts Sculpture Hall $55

Make Lager. Not war. Yup, lighter style brews are all the rage. Come taste the best new lagers, Kolsch, Hefeweizens and more as we explore the lighter side of beer with some favorite brewers and beer geeks.

The panel be featuring some pretty killer local lagers such as Worthy Brewing’s Easy Day Kolsch and also showcasing some notable ales from around the country, like Michigan’s Founders Brewing Co.’s All Day IPA.

Get Lei'd: It's Tiki Time!

Saturday, Sept 20th - 4:15-5:15pm

Portland Art Museum Evans H. Roberts Sculpture Hall $55

The Tiki Gods will be pouring four classic cocktails including Planter’s Punch, Three Dots and a Dash, Mai Tai, and Sailor’s Grog! Forget the trip to the islands, it'll feel like an island escape in September.

Talk Wine with Me: Jason Brumley of Xylem Wines

This new series of articles will expose a side of the winemaker you don't often see—their up-close and personal side. The purpose is for you to learn a little more about each winemaker's philosophy.You might discover how and why they came to make wine, you may gain a better understanding of their palates and how it influences the wines the make, you might just get some great new ideas for what to eat and what to drink or you might get a glimpse of the future. Whatever you do take away, I hope it includes further developing an appreciation for the notion that behind every bottle, behind every brand, behind every decorated and undecorated label, stands a person with a unique vision and a personality all their own, and how these individual characteristics intertwine with and become the wine in your glass. 

Q. What was your "Aha moment"?
A. I had worked in restaurants for 15 years and had been the wine steward for a French bistro in Oklahoma City (yes, there's a French bistro in Oklahoma City) for a few of those years when my girlfriend (now wife), Cokie Anderson, and I took a trip through the Willamette Valley and then over to the coast. I had already been playing around with the notion of finding a spot in Oklahoma that might be suitable for growing a few grapevines and making a little wine (nothing commercial mind you), so that seed was sort of already planted. The beauty of the Willamette Valley itself, the wines produced here, and the communal spirit of those involved in the winemaking industry in northwest Oregon spoke to my soul in a way that nothing ever really had. I knew that I had finally found a calling. As we sat in a hotel room looking out at the Pacific Ocean and listening to the sound of the crashing waves come through the open window, I turned to Cokie and said, "I'm moving out here to make wine and you can come with me if you would like." We flew back out 3 weeks later and began looking for a house to buy in McMinnville. 

That's about as "Aha!" as it gets. 

Q. What is your favorite part about being a winemaker? 
A. I've always liked telling and reading stories and each bottle of wine that we make tells a story of vineyard, varietal, and vintage if you listen to it. 

Q. What is your harvest kickoff soundtrack? 
A. I'm a Grateful Dead fan and my best friend and business partner in the vineyard and winery, Forrest Schaad, and I began a little project a few years ago of listening to every live Grateful Dead show in chronological order that is available on archive.org (no repeats of the same show). So, whatever show is next in line when harvest begins will be the kickoff soundtrack. It will likely be a show somewhere in the winter of 1970 or 1971.

Q. What is your favorite food and wine pairing?
A. I love rich shellfish and a good acid-driven Chardonnay. Chardonnay is always the wine that I choose when asked the "You're on a desert island..." question. I figure that a desert island should have plenty of seafood around and there's nothing better than Chardonnay to pair with varying types of seafood.

Q. Right now: Eempty or full fridge?
A. My fridge is currently full of fresh local berries, veggies, and mushrooms. We try to eat locally and support as many small farmers in the area as possible. The communal spirit of the area extends out, not only in the wine industry, but in so many other facets of our life. It's such a privilege to have such diversity available withing such a small radius of where we live.  

Q. What wine do you hate to love?
A. I may get berated for this, but I actually like certain wines with a bit of brettanomyces. Not all wines play well with brett, but some are quite intriguing with it. I believe that we have moved into a realm of such clean and pure wines that many of them are technically great, but lack that "je ne sais quoi" that I often enjoy.

Q. What wine do you love to hate?
A. White Zinfandel...'nuff said.

Q. What is your guilty pleasure (one you'll admit here)?
A. I'm a hedonist, so guilt and pleasure don't exist in the same realm. If I feel guilty about it, then it's not pleasurable. 

Q. What are working on right now that truly excites you? 
A. The vineyard is absolute excitement for me. Forrest and I have been working together on this piece of property in the Chehalem Mountains since 2009 and the young vines are just now coming online. More blocks will be coming on in future years and I cannot wait to taste the fruit and wines from those vines. 

Q. What is your favorite varietal? 
A. Chardonnay!!! Some day, I hope to establish a vineyard and a label that is nothing but Chardonnay. I want to buy an old church and have it moved, re-built, and converted into a winery on top of a hill that overlooks the vines. I will call it 'The First Church of the Eternal Chardonnay'. I will wash the sinful red stains of Pinot Noir from your soul and ye shall be pure again. 

Xylem Wines is a fully functioning, residence-based winery located in McMinnville, Oregon - in the heart of Oregon's wine country. It is the result of two friends sharing a passion for viticulture and winemaking, Jason Brumley and Forrest Schaad. The vineyards are located on Schaad's family estate in the Chehalem Mountain AVA, which was originally planted to fruits and nuts in the 1950's and then to vinifer in 1980. The winery is located in the Brumley residence. In 2012, Brumley and Schaad ran a successful Kickstarter campaign to raise funds for the winery and expansion of their vineyards. They are excitedly preparing for their second annual release at the end of June.

The Evening Land Tri-Fecta

Evening Land Vineyards (ELV), the new kid in town, has quite a reputation already. It’s one of ambition, quality, brilliance and beauty… the stuff legends are made of.

Not many wineries produce wine in multiple locations. While a few Oregon wineries also make wine in California or Washington, and even fewer number make wine in both Oregon and Burgundy, Evening Land actually makes wine in all three locations with fruit from esteemed vineyards in these areas—Oregon, California and France. Stop in at their new Dundee tasting room and sip for yourself. You might just not believe your tastebuds.

With vineyards and wine production in the Willamette Valley, Sonoma Coast and in an idyllic 12th century chateau in the legendary Burgundy France, ELV offers tasters a chance to experience the wide world of wine. Enjoy them all, side-by-side, and explore the qualities distinctive to each specific growing region, as well as the varietal similarities.

Discover the minerality of the Evening Land Chardonnays, each of them bright, rich, alive and impressive showing flavors of lemon, grapefruit peel, pear and white blossoms.

The ELV Pinot Noirs are simply captivating. The Willamette Valley blue label (ELV's elegant labels are color-coded according to price), a blend of three different vineyard sites (Lemelson, Stoller and Eola Springs), is surprisingly priced in the “affordable” Oregon Pinot Noir category. At just $25 a bottle retail, it’s a wine you definitely want to get your corkscrew into and add to your regular line-up. 

The Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir is simply stunning. On the savory side of Pinot, the wine is still dripping with sweet, luscious black cherries and tart red raspberries. This acid-driven wine is perfectly balanced…a symphony of fruit, earth, minerals and old-world style, all the notes coming together in perfect harmony. Sublime. Quixotic. Pour me another glass.

Though I’d tried ELV's wines before, this comprehensive and more focused tasting made quite an impression on me. All of the wines (with the exception of the Spanish Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir, which is wisely being discontinued) are even better than remembered or expected. Evening Land is definitely a winery to put on your “Must Visit” and "Must Taste" lists. 

Savvy Marketing Ploy Leads to Sweet Costco Wine Score

I recently found myself diverted from my typical Oregon wine tasting excursions to honor my mother-in-law who retired after 36 years of teaching high school English. We were having a big party for her and made a special trip to the Kennewick, Washington Costco to pick up some cheesecakes (as if you could just go to Costco for one thing). Since we had to pass through the wine section to get to the bakery, my eyes were browsing all the lovely local offerings along the way, with no intention of buying a thing. As I strolled past a certain bin, however, my eyes became locked… I was mesmerized by what I was seeing. Were all those bottles really hand signed? It was as if they were a hand written invitation, sent directly to me. I read all the different ways the winemaker had signed the bottles, “Cheers, Salut, Prost, Skal… ” and I knew I would be buying one. Fortunately, my mom-in-law saw my interest (or the puddle of drool pooling at the side of my mouth) and she bought it for me. So, cheers to you Marcie, both for your heartfelt dedication to your students and for supporting me as a writer/blogger/person. Congratulations, and I truly hope retirement rocks!!

The wine that caught my eye like a handsome man across the room at a boring party was a 2008 Tamarack Cellars Chardonnay; I was familiar with Tamarack Cellar's wine as they make some killer reds. I liked the name (or its similarity with my own anyway). The price point was extremely attractive—at $15, if it was good, it would be an affordable luxury. But, I have to tell you, what really sold me on that bottle was the personal touch—the autograph. I try to be a savvy consumer and not fall for clever gimmicks. Animals, sexy women and funny names don’t typically suck me in, but a signed bottle, well that’s obviously a whole other story. What a cool conversation piece.

Tamarack Cellars, founded in 1998 by Ron and Jamie Coleman, is located in Walla Walla Washington, though they source their fruit from premium vineyard sites located within several different Washington AVAs (American Viticultural Area). The winery must be a site, as it’s housed in a restored WWII fire station and barracks at the Walla Walla Airport Complex, which I sincerely hope to visit when I go to the Wine Bloggers Conference at the end of this month (woohoo!).

I admit to some trepidation purchasing this wine; I was afraid I was being suckered in by a silly signature that added a perceived value. That signature (which was actually that of the Assistant Winemaker—as opposed to the Head Winemaker and founder—so, feeling ever so slightly duped) was enough to change my expectation of that wine, after all, Danny Gordon put his name on it—it had to be good. I worked through my fear, brought the wine home, chilled that bad boy down and poured up a glass that didn’t make me imagine Mr. T saying he pitied the fool who fell sucker to a dumb marketing ploy. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Guest Blog: Sip with Me’s Best-Kept Secrets Revealed – Top 10 Oregon Value Wines

When I hear the words “value wine”, some of the first visual images that pop into my mind are those of jugs and boxes (no I’m not talking sexual innuendo here, sorry Clive). Value wine doesn’t have to mean cheap or unpalatable, but it should mean good wine at a good price. When Bernie Gehret of portlandoregonwine asked me to guest blog about some of my favorite Oregon “best values”, I was both honored and challenged. But I'm not going to tell you my 10 Oregon value wines and best kept secrets here, if you want to know you'll have to read the rest of the story here.

A Glimpse at Lost Loves… or a Really Bad Wine List?

My passionate love affair with Pinot noir continues, yet each time after she’s gone, I wonder if I’ll ever see her again. Why does she torture me so? Lying there alone, savoring what we just shared, I still taste her exquisite beauty on my lips and feel her warmth in my body. I’m brusquely awakened from my intoxicated state of euphoria by sudden flashes of past loves appearing before my eyes; I realize it’s more like a glimpse at a really bad wine list.

You might call me a lush; yes, over the years, I’ve sipped from a few ‘bad’ bottles. Back in high school, if you really must know, it was always about quantity over quality. I probably shouldn’t share my dirty little secret with you, but my first time was actually a threesome… me, Bartles and James. The three of us played drinking games long into the night, getting into all kinds of mischief (not to mention the ritual hanging our heads together over the porcelain bowl of disgrace). We were completely shameless, doing it in public places, sometimes even with a crowd around us. Our cheap and taudry affair lasted too long… until college, when I met my first (real?) love.

While my peers were guzzling beer from the keg, I was chasing after this frilly pink label that caught my eye. She was racy, flirty and they called her White Zinfandel. We had a lot of fun and sometimes, when I added bubbles to the party, she’d get really crazy! We were inseparable and she somehow kept me interested for a time. I soon realized she mostly just gave me a headache. No, she wasn’t the one for me, so I wrote her a Dear Zin letter and went in search of something more genuine.

One day, when I least expected it, there he was staring at me from across the red and white checkerboard tablecloth, Mr. Genuine himself… Sangiovese. By the glow of the candlelight he looked magnificent… all rustic and Old-World. Our conversation flowed easy as a bottle of fine wine and the two of us were comfortable, enjoying each other’s company as if time no longer existed. But you know those Italians, he was a bit of a heartbreaker and we inevitably parted ways. We’re still great friends though and even see each other from time to time over a big hearty bowl of pasta.

After a few months of chocolate and self-indulgence, I briefly opened myself up to Tempranillo, but quickly realized he was just a rebound guy (his woodsy style just wasn’t a match for me either and we both knew I was meant to explore other loves). That’s when I met Chardonnay. We dated for a bit, but the chemistry just wasn’t there either—I guess blondes don’t really do it for me, and besides, she was really only fun with dinner. So there I was, alone again.

One day, I finally let my friend Kathleen set me up — she swore we’d hit it off, and she was right. That night, over take-out pizza, Merlot and I made a deep connection. He was smooth and easy and we seemed to have an immediate and unspoken understanding. We went along happy for many years… that is, until I moved to Oregon and discovered Pinot noir.

Pinot noir and I really became intimate while I was working in the wine industry; one look was all it took, and it was if no other wine had ever existed before. Sounds a bit corny, like lust at first sight, but sometimes you just know these things. I knew there was something special about this wine and I just couldn’t and didn’t want to ignore it. I let her seduce me, which she did so many times and on so many levels—filling all five of my senses with her essence. Our affair began with an incomparable intensity; I couldn’t get enough of her. Some things are just meant to be continued. But she remains elusive and, at best, minimal indulgence is all I’ve enjoyed so far. And while my feelings for Pinot noir may be hot and heavy today, I imagine the day may soon come when that spell is broken. Perhaps I’ll finally tire of the pursuit. With so many great wines flaunting themselves at me daily, it’s quite frankly hard to resist all the temptations. And who knows, perhaps it’s time to start exploring the wine shelf again and see if another varietal sparks my attention the way my sexy little Pinot did. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Superheroes, World Domination and Oregon Wine

When the Gaston Six gather together in one spot to pimp their goods, it’s surely an event you don’t want to miss. Like local Superheroes, picture an opportunity to taste wines made by true independent winemakers—ADEA, Biggio Hamina, Bishop Creek, Cancilla Cellars, Matello and Twelve—and you begin to wrap your head around the rare and unique artisan wines I sampled that day.

Showing respect for the house, I started first with the host, ADEA Wine Company. Founders, Dean and Ann Fisher produced their first three vintages (starting in 1995) under a different name, and in 1998 they changed their name to ADEA incorporating the first letter of each family member’s name (Ann, Dean, Erica and Adam). Their earliest vintages were crafted at Medici and later at Lemelson, but ADEA now proudly has their own winery (which additionally houses a collection of boutique indie winemakers) and a tasting room open on weekends.

I was poured a delightful 2005 Rose, crisp and tart with rhubarb and strawberries, and the perfect beginning to the wine journey dubbed Pinot Passion. I also truly enjoyed ADEA’s 2006 Momtazi Pinot Noir—deep, dark and brooding, with black cherries and pie spice finish… reminiscent of a late night diner after a rock concert.

Taking two steps to the left, I easily located Biggio Hamina, where I chatted with owner Todd Hamina who just turned out his 14th vintage. He told me how the name is a combination of his last name and his wife’s maiden name (are we seeing a trend developing?). While I was savoring the incredible aromatics on his wine, he humbly stated how “making a good Pinot Noir is akin to bragging about being the tallest midget.” Well, Todd, I don’t know about that midget thing, but you certainly have something to boast about. The 2007 Deux Vert Pinot Noir had a beautifully light and almost translucent color, a floral nose with lush red cherries and a hint of underlying earthiness; it was every bit balanced with fruit, lively acids and velvety tannins… flawless.

At Bishop Creek Cellars, the wines and vines are managed by one person, Jeremy Saville. The 60-acre site (originally planted in 1988) is located in a cooler micro-climate than many Willamette Valley vineyards, which Jeremy thinks results in later ripening fruit that gives the wine its distinctive and intense flavors while retaining the natural acidity. I admired Jeremy’s approach and his wines seemed to truly reflect his philosophy. Bishop Creek produces only estate-grown wines from their 13-acres of Pinot noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc. With Syrah, Arneis and Gruner Veltliner planted to vine in 2008, I’d keep my eye on what they’re turning out in the next few years.

Jeremy was pouring the best white in the house that day (IMVHO)—a 2007 Pinot Gris, 100% stainless-steel fermented and 100% true-to-varietal flavor. It had depth and character with an intense nose of Anjou pear and green apple, a delightful nuttiness (probably resulting from ripe grape seeds) and energetic acids that filled my mouth. The 2007 Barrel Selection Pinot Noir also spoke volumes to me. It was a delicate, light ruby color, yet incredibly complex and well integrated with layers of cranberry, pomegranate and rose (and at $22, it’s a very reasonable indulgence and one I would like to have speak to me again).

Next in the procession was Matello winemaker (or Masseur du Raisins as he whimsically calls himself) Marcus Goodfellow pouring his wine of choice… a 2007 Pinot Noir Souris. This cuvee (barrel blend), though not my favorite, was an excellent and very thought-provoking wine; it was acid-driven with red cherries, strawberries, rose petals, cured beef and spice. As I chatted with Marcus, the wine continued to open up showing how marvelously multifaceted it really was. By contrast, the 2008 Pinot Noir Hommage a’A&D was tight and grippy, but I think it was just in a shut-down phase (this sometimes occurs after bottling). With more time in bottle, this wine could turn out to be a gem and would be an interesting wine to revisit in the future. My favorite of Marcus’s wines was the 2008 Winter’s Hill… it was fruit-forward with silky tannins and hints of smoke and tobacco. When I asked Marcus about his label, he first explained the name Matello comes from the Italian for little fool. He chose the Court Jester graphic because in the old days, the jesters were the only person who could really speak their mind. I think he just might be something of a jokester himself, identifying with their playful nature. Matello is producing less than 1,600 cases per year, and as a testament to their “indie” ways, does not even have a website. (Need some help with that? I know some great peeps!)

Moving on down the line: Ken Cancilla escaped from the East Coast and the Telecommunication world to grow grapes in Oregon. Nine vintages later and he’s still living the dream; Ken has 23 acres planted in Gaston (22 to Pinot Noir and 1 to Chardonnay) and crafts his wines using only his estate fruit. Cancilla Cellar’s 2007 Chardonnay displayed bright citrus, soap and a minerality much like steeliness (despite being aged in neutral oak). It was racy, zippy and surely got my attention. The 2006 Pinot Noir showed a lot of red fruit like raspberries, strawberries, red cherries, as well as earth and some sweet, hot (almost port-like) cassis.

My last stop on my tour of the Gaston Six brought me to Twelve. Twelve is a family-owned 13-acre vineyard located four-miles west of Carlton. When I asked owner John Lenyo about the choice of name, he said it came from the movie Spinal Tap (I believe it’s a quote from Nigel Tufnel where he asks, “Will this one go to eleven?”). Twelve’s labels are always changing, but one thing remains consistent about them; they’re all beautiful examples of modern art. John was smart about engaging his consumer and making them think before he even gets a drop of wine into their glass. I might brand the term “intelligent seduction”; clever marketing that draws you in with its mystery. What does Twelve mean? What is this label? Why 144? The 2007 Reserve 144 refers not to a specific clone, but is in fact, their name (12) to the power of 12. And their second label (lower price point wine) is called Second Floor. Got something against thirteen? Whoa, too many numbers for me—I’m outta here!

I casually, and more in jest, refer to these artisan producers as Superheroes. Okay, calling them Superheroes might be a bit of stretch, they’re not fighting evil villains plotting world domination. But they are putting themselves out there every day battling the forces of nature, the environment, the economy, government and big business… all for the sake of wine. That’s dedication. So next time you’re pouring yourself a glass at the end of a long day, take a moment to think about what kind of passionate individual (hero) it took to get that wine there and make a quiet toast to them. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

If I'm Pinot Noir, What Wine Are You?

“So, I was wondering, what Pinot Noir am I?” recently asked a friend. I told him first and foremost, he couldn’t possibly be Pinot Noir, because I am. But if you know anything about me by now, you know this conversation got the rusty old wheels turning. So, if I’m Pinot Noir (click here to see Pinot Noir’s qualities from my last post), what varietal of wine are you?

Do you have a knack for levity and tendency to lighten the moment with your witty presence? Why you must be Chardonnay!

Perhaps you’re Cabernet Franc… strong, masculine and most likely smelling like a combination of an old fogies’ stogie, moss and a leather armchair.

Sangiovese, you little Earth mama you. Expect to see this lass laden down with a rustic basket full of sun-ripened fruit and savory spices. She’s a bit hippy-like and often smells of campfire. Sometimes people call her crunchy, savory, or even acidic.

Riesling, you could be named Sybil, Eve (or Gewurztraminer for that matter), there are so many facets to you. One minute you’re sweet as honey and the next, you’re bone dry… no one will ever figure you out (but that won’t stop them from trying). You’re genuine, expressive, full of lively personality and you play well with food (wink, wink).

Oh yes, you have a reputation Pinot Grigio, but people just don’t know the real you. They misjudge you—think you lack character and backbone. Don’t worry my sweet; there are many who see your inner beauty.

If you see yourself as sharp, with an etched profile and would categorize yourself as “green”… you might be Sauvignon Blanc. If you enjoy casual hikes in the stone-filled, countryside or through tall, warm grasses while chewing on sprigs of herbs… you just might be Sauvignon Blanc.

Ever been called a wolf in sheep's clothing? Well, that would mean you’re Zinfandel. You look simple, but most of time, you’re just downright hot.

You’re easy-going, sometimes a bit soft but an all-around nice person. You may have been a bit of a wallflower growing up. When your mom described you, it was always how you were not like someone else (“Oh that Merlot, she’s definitely no Pinot or Syrah.”).

Speaking of Syrah: Syrahs are excellent muti-taskers; they work hard to show how diverse they can be. A bit like liquid incense… they’re exotic, heady and anything but one-dimensional. They love Autumn with its dried leaves and fruits and live for stews, slow-simmered braised meats and long walks in the rain.

People wouldn’t know it to look at you, but you really pack a punch. Yes, you may look like a poodle, but you’re all boxer. You have a wicked streak and sometimes come across to others as bitter… but you’re getting better with age. Your name is Nebiolo.

Viognier, with your Botticelli-like figure… you’re pure hedonism, lying there in pools of musk and honey, decadently feeding your lovers overly ripe apricots, guava, mango and passion fruit all day.

Oh, Muscat, you’re just a mimbo (male bimbo). You have a maturity about you but take pleasure in seducing all the old ladies with your predictably sweet perfumes.

Ahhhhhh, then there’s Cabernet Sauvignon—powerful, structured and intelligent, yet opulent, sensual and downright provocative—worth holding on to. You and your mysterious aura—with your mischievously spicy side—if only I could really get to know you. You’re utterly luscious and possess a profoundly captivating persona—mmmmmm, intoxicating. Oh baby, where have you been all my life?

Or maybe you’re just more of a mutt after all. A mixture of many different varietals… a blend, a cuvee, like Bordeaux. You’re classic, sophisticated and savvy, yet fun and always full of surprises.

I’ve taken the liberty of exploring a few wine personality types, but with an alphabet full of varieties, I could go on forever (I’ll spare you). If you haven’t identified with one of these, tell me what I’ve missed and which wine you are. In the end, take to heart the real beauty lies in attraction. Just like people, every once in a while you meet a wine so appealing and so mind-boggling, it quite possible changes your life forever. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

St. Francis Embraces Social Media and Bloggers

Recently, I accepted an invitation to have lunch with winemaker legend Tom Mackey of Sonoma County’s St. Francis Winery & Vineyards. As if I would have said no. First of all, the man is “The Master of Merlot,” and with 36 years of winemaking at St. Francis alone, he’s an absolute well of knowledge and a genuine soul. I was honored to dine with him at the exquisite Urban Farmer in the swanky Nines Hotel and excited to hear about his impressions of the current state of the wine industry. Also joining the party and bringing their own viewpoint to the table was Mary Cressler of Vindulge, Jim Eastman of The Wine Cyclist and Bernie Gehret and Eva Schmole of portlandoregonwine.com.

When Tom started with St. Francis in 1983, he admits it was a much simpler time. The winery consisted of a four-man team in a smaller and less demanding market, before the explosion of the nineties hit and small wineries started popping up like prairie dogs in a field. He acknowledges the changes, both in viticulture and winemaking standards, has seen the California sprawl and embraces the winery’s current goal to walk with a lighter carbon footprint (Cheers to that!). St. Francis presently participates in a water collection program and has 90,000 square feet of solar panels that actually feed energy back into the grid! When asked about biodynamics, Tom admitted he was amused by the cult aspect of it, but respectful of the science and the goal for healthy plants and earth. He spoke of their own movement towards organics, but said they’re years from certification.

We talked a little about Merlot, naturally, and of course I had to ask Tom what his thoughts were on the Sideways "phenomenon". I was quite surprised by his answer; the man is as eloquent a speaker as he is a brilliant winemaker. Humbly, he said, “Sideways was just the straw that broke the camel’s back; Miles said what a lot of critics were thinking at the time. There was a lot of mediocre Merlot being produced.” Merlot had been riding the wave Pinot Noir is currently riding. The varietal was relatively new to the American market; it was easy to say and sounded interesting. Unlike Pinot noir though, it was ready to consume and user-friendly. Win, win… until the next trend came along. This of course got me wondering about that wave of Pinot noir; is it leveling out making its way for the next big trend? What is that next big trend?

Tom started lunch off with a taste of his 2007 St. Francis Sonoma County Chardonnay and a fascinating lesson in the history of the winery. He regaled us with stories of how the Chardonnay grapes are harvested at 2:00 in the morning, when the fruit is at its coolest. I could just envision the workers plucking ripe green clusters from the vine they’re tethered to with only the light of the moon to guide them. The grapes are immediately whole cluster pressed and then barrel fermented to reveal a fantastic wine that let delightful citrus and melon flavors of the grapes show through while retaining a precarious balance of rich though not creamy texture and delicate vanilla oakiness. I really enjoyed this wine and wanted to savor it a bit before heading off to the land of the reds, where we were clearly headed.

After tasting some other Sonoma County wines, we arrived at the treasure trove, tasting St. Francis’s limited production, artisan label, Wild Oak—which Tom says consists of the best of their best. Like a winery within a winery, St. Francis has a separate area for processing smaller lots of fruit in a gentle, minimal intervention style to produce wines of greater character expressing the sensational vineyard sites from where they sprung. St. Francis has continued to grow and produce exceptional Merlot year after year and though Tom prides himself on being able to play on the flavors of the vineyards as opposed to making the wine taste the same vintage to vintage, there is still a certain consistency and predictability in his wines.

The 2004 Wild Oak Merlot was outstanding. The wine was every bit as lush and velvety as a Bordeaux-structured Merlot should be. I let the wine open up in my glass for some time before I even approached it. At first sip, it was slightly firm, with chewy tannins that continued to soften as it oxygenated. The Merlot was just starting to reveal its luscious cherry, floral and cocoa flavors while Tom explained how though California is generally picking later than they did historically, this vintage was ripe early and then blended with Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot—a real beauty.

I'm confessing right here, I'm a bit gaga for his 2006 Wild Oak Zinfandel. It was sweet with cherries, blackberries, licorice, pepper and something like mint, menthol or eucalyptus that added a lovely lift on the finish. Lively fruit and juicy acids coyfully played with the smoky chipotle sauce on my chicken sandwich and then, as if reading my mind, Tom told us about how St. Francis was the first California winery to focus on food and wine pairing. They now feature an on-site executive chef and the St. Francis website goes one step further, offering recipes to pair with their wines.

Before I arrived at lunch, I honestly wondered why someone who primarily writes about Oregon Pinot noir (me) was invited to meet with the California Master of Merlot (Tom). Never one to look a gift-horse in the mouth, I had no intention of passing this lunch up. I try to embrace most opportunities that come my way… finding life’s greatest lessons are often learned from some of the most surprising and unexpected teachers. What I really came away with, aside from an even deeper love of St. Francis wines, was an appreciation and respect for how this well-known winery was reaching out beyond traditional press to wine bloggers and Twitterers instead. They could have invited big-name reporters from local publications looking for traditional news articles, but chose to incorporate and utilize social marketing; here’s to the power of the new press and to St. Francis for their forward thinking. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Photo provided by Mary Cressler, thanks Mary!

Finding the Balance in Oregon Wine

With the current state of the economy, my former hobby of seeking out value-driven wines has now become more of a necessity. With that thought weighing as heavily upon me as a teenager’s backpack, I located Firesteed Cellars, who to me epitomizes both quality and value.

Though Firesteed Pinot Noir has graced my table many times with their consistently good, fruit-forward $10.00 wines, I’d never actually visited their facility—and until 2003, nobody else had either (with no vineyards and no winery, Firesteed was what was called a virtual winery). Owner Howard Rossbach had the forethought to produce reliably good yet affordable Oregon wines over 15 years ago, sourcing fruit from the state’s most renowned growing regions and utilizing a custom-crush facility before purchasing the existing vineyard and winery. Located a mere ten minutes from downtown Salem, this accessible winery is a relative newcomer on the scene but fully ready to play ball with the big boys. While expansive views of the 74-acres of vineyards greet you (with 200 more slated for planting), the quiet and windowless tasting room overlooks the winery facility, keeping the focus on the wine, not the vine.

For a facility that produces 80,000 cases per year, it was like a ghost town the day I visited. Winters are generally quiet around most cellars; wines from the past harvest have all been bottled or put in barrel to age, the vines have been pruned back and lie dormant for months. I relish in the extra attention I get in an uncrowded tasting room, so a lack of people didn’t phase me (though I do love a good party atmosphere). Byron poured me through Firesteed’s line-up, which actually had a few surprises. The 2005 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir was expressive with black cherry, raspberry, cedar, cocoa and spicy notes. It was earthy and smoky and good, but wait… it’s $30 a bottle. Next, Byron’s pouring $35 and even $50 wines. Really? $50 Pinot noir? From Firesteed? Well, as it turns out, Firesteed created a entirely different label for this wine, called Citation, which they age and hold back until it’s truly ready for release. I tasted a 2000 Citation Pinot Noir, which is primarily only available in the tasting room. It tasted of cranberry with firm yet silky tannins—a solid wine. I totally get the concept; chosen select barrels, aged years before release. But with all due respect to Mr. Rossbach, I do have to question producing a wine that seems to violate the One-Two-Punch quality AND value theme Firesteed has built their reputation and success on. Just sayin’!

Travel just a bit further down the road and discover Johan Vineyards and their boutique winery which produces less than 1,000 cases of wine each year. Located on 85 acres of organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards in the Van Duzer corridor, Johan sells 85% of their fruit to lucky local wineries. The winery produced its first vintage of estate wine in 2005 and recently celebrated the grand opening of their winery and inviting tasting room just a short couple of months ago.

While winery cats Fox and Leopard twirled at my feet, I enjoyed wines that were focused, elegant and told a beautiful story. The 2007 Estate Pinot Noir was a bit showy with a lovely balance of cherry, pomegranate, cassis, a bit of dust and just the right of amount of spice to make the finish bold and memorable. The 2007 Pinot Noir Nils Reserve (named for Johan’s father) was deep and mysterious, with a bit of dark side; black cherry, currants and blackberries dominated the fruit spectrum while hints of forest floor and spice added pizzazz. Leaving the company of Dag’s charming wife Alison, I ventured back down the windy road, past open meadows, spring-fed lakes for irrigation and runoff, solar panels and of course, rows and rows of grapevines. Left of center, and right back up the other side of the bowl, I discovered Johan’s next-door neighbors, Left Coast Cellars, and their country-contemporary tasting room.

Left Coast Cellars is situated on a 306-acre estate that’s so much like a nature preserve it’s easy to forget it’s a vineyard. In addition to the 125 acres of meticulously maintained organic and biodynamic vineyards, there’s Italian Cyprus and Oregon White Oak trees, as well as fruit orchards and lakes and streams that attract migrating birds and larger birds of prey. Left Coast owners, the Plaff family, also planted four acres of hazelnut trees, shrub roses and holly oak to encourage growth of their European truffles. I wonder (and didn’t ask) if those truffles will be available for sale in the tasting room?

Annabelle, the winery mascot, was there to greet me and shepherded me to the bar for tasting. She knew it was getting close to the dinner hour and I sensed she was wishing I would wrap things up already instead of making her pose for a picture. But Annabelle sat pretty and patiently while Judy and Jean made no hurries at all, making me feel right at home while poured me through the extended portfolio. As with other wines from this AVA (American Viticultural Area), the Pinot noirs showed a similarity with their expressions of dark fruit and earthiness. Left Coast was pouring three Pinots from the 2006 vintage, which were all pretty bold, jammy and intense (like many Pinot noirs of that vintage). My favorite, and the wine I thought the most elegant, was their 2006 Cali’s Cuvee Pinot Noir (named for owner Suzanne’s daughter). Its generous nose tempted me with ripe Bing cherries, blackberry pie, orange zest and pine while the taste revealed a mixed bowl of wild berries which gave way to an interesting herbaceous quality. The finish was long and lovely with sweet maple and baking spice that would be perfect to sip on its own or to pair with a hearty and meaty meal. Though I seem to have skipped straight to the reds, I actually really enjoyed the whites from Left Coast Cellars, where winemaker Luke McCollum takes the mundane and makes it interesting. Definitely worth mentioning, is Left Coast Cellars 2006 Chardonnay… complex and vivacious with flavors of lemon meringue pie, white peach, green apple, quince and vanilla skipping about my mouth. They may be a bunch of lefties out there, but they’re certainly doing something right.

While I was tasting at Left Coast, I was intrigued by a couple of women I met named Nichole Taylor and Ivy Hover of Vino & Vinyasa. Nichole and Ivy run yoga retreats at wineries and vineyards, bringing the revitalizing practice of yoga to the expansive views of Oregon’s vineyards… relaxing and stretching while surrounded by nature’s beauty and bounty. The sound of it alone sounds relaxing, no? Back on the road, but with my mind still doing Tree Pose in the vineyard, I passed by Firesteed again and thoughts of money and value invaded my formerly peaceful place, jolting me back to reality. A few deep cleansing breaths and it occurred to me that like the yin and yang, I guess ultimately, wineries must find their balance too. Perhaps Firesteed’s luxury tier provides some kind of balance for their value-priced wines, perhaps even adding value to the less expensive wines. Does the $50 wine make their $16 bottle taste even better? I guess some wineries make decisions to introduce a top-shelf wine based on marketing principals and some just have a passion to make a better wine. The wineries that do this best strike a precarious balance between the two. Here’s to balance. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

My Crushes: Top 10 Most Memorable Wines of 2009

Like the ever-elusive “love at first sight,” sometimes we make a powerful connection with certain wines and might even think they’re “The One.” Something about it appeals to your inner being in some magical and almost undefinable way. It challenges your mind and your heart at once… stirring intense emotion and captivating your attention while luring you in for more. Your heart begins to race, and you feel passion and fulfillment co-mingling together side by side like champagne flutes. But, like fickle love, fortunately the same thing doesn’t appeal to everyone—and in that spirit, I’d like to offer my contribution to the Top Ten torrent and share with you what wines captured my soul and won me over in some undeniable way. And, while I realize some of these wines are completely and ridiculously unaffordable for the average consumer (me) and some are even sold out (☹), the following is simply a list of the most memorable wines I tasted in 2009:

1. Archery Summit 2007 Arcus Estate Pinot Noir ($100)
2. 2007 Bergstrom Vineyard Pinot Noir ($75)
3. Argyle 1999 Extended Tirage Brut (sold out)
4. Marchesi 2007 Barbera ($27)
5. Carlo & Julian 2005 Estate Tempranillo ($30)
6. Alloro 2007 Church Block Pinot Noir ($38)
7. Mystic 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($28)
8. Apolloni 2008 Pinot Noir Rose ($?)
9. Purple Cow 2008 Siegerrebe ($14)
10. White Rose 06 Soverae ($75)

My current quest to taste at every Oregon tasting room in a year has allowed me the unique privilege of sampling a lot of wine. I’ve now visited 127 different wineries and having tasted well over 600 wines in a three-month span, I’ve also learned many great lessons, met amazing people that have changed my life and I’ve further honed my eager palate. I think I finally developed a true understanding of the word “terrior” (a French term describing how the soil and location impact the flavors of the fruit) and have now tasted for myself the distinct flavor profiles from specific AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). Further reflection on my experiences reveals I also discovered something about how wine can make a powerful impression and sometimes can even steal your heart. I hope you found some wines that were utterly beguiling in 2009, I’d sure love to hear about them! Until we sip again in 2010…

Cheers and Happy New Year!

Seize the Day and Go Taste Wine

Special holiday weekends provide amazing opportunities for wine tasters. In Oregon’s wine country, it can mean a chance to taste some rare and well-kept secrets. Many small producers that don’t keep regular tasting room hours throw open their cellar doors just a few times a year welcoming new and old fans alike. Thanksgiving weekend is traditionally one of those special weekends, and I was feeling grateful for my opportunity to explore some of these hidden wonders.

Every time I see my friend Thomas (Winemaker for Anne Amie Vineyards), he always asks if I’ve visited Alloro Vineyards yet, and I always reply, “No, not yet.” Well, this weekend I finally took Thomas’s recommendation to visit Alloro Vineyards for one of their twice-a-year celebrations, and am truly thankful I did. Alloro Vineyards is an enviable 70-acre Mediterranean-inspired estate located in the Chehalem Mountains in the Northern Willamette Valley. It’s practically a stone’s throw from downtown Portland, but set in the midst of sprawling agriculture, instead of cookie-cutter houses. The name Alloro is Italian for laurel… and seeing how the vineyard is located on Laurelwood soil, on Laurel Ridge with laurel growing all over the property, the name is obviously a good fit. Historically, laurel symbolized immortality; today it is a symbol of both peace and victory… I can drink to that.

Friends, family and neighbors came from near and far to support founder David Nemarnik and enjoy Alloro’s wines which are an example of Oregon’s finest Pinots… well balanced, elegant and complex. Though Alloro was showing some of their 2008 Pinots, which had recently been bottled, the wine I thought was hogging the spotlight was the 2007 Church Block Estate Pinot Noir. This wine is named for the block’s location—directly across from a pioneer church whose bells can be heard chiming throughout the vineyard every Sunday morning at 10:30. The wine had a touch of sweet strawberry, black cherries and tart raspberry with a hint of smokiness offering intrigue and a spicy finish that added that extra something, something. The tannins were fine and silky but the firm structure would indicate this stunning wine could still benefit from additional cellar time.

Alloro also produces a late-harvest dessert wine called Vino Netarre, which rivals Canada’s best ice wines. A late-harvest blend of Riesling and the gorgeously aromatic Muscat, the wine was dazzling and stood very well on its own, but I couldn’t help but imagine what it would taste like reduced and drizzled over French toast… it could very well be the star of my Sunday brunch! After chatting with a limo driver about our mutual appreciation of the Church Block Pinot Noir and the tasting opportunities weekends like this present, he recommended I visit Styring Vineyards on Ribbon Ridge. Curiosity piqued, I left the Tuscan splendor and bocce courts of Alloro Vineyard and headed off for Styring Vineyards; a boutique winery located atop the Ribbon Ridge AVA (American Viticultural Area) in Oregon’s Northern Willamette Valley.

Founded by Steve and Kelly Styring in 2003, Steve is producing artisan wines but Molly the Wine Dog is perhaps upstaging Steve ever so slightly as the their face and handle on Twitter… she even has her own blog. Styring has a subterranean cave for wine storage (which I didn’t see), but the wine production area was well dressed for their semi-annual occasion with wine, snacks, live music and twinkling lights overhead. There was quite a large gathering and the party crowd was soaking it all in.

The Styrings, whose farming history dates back to early England in the 1100’s, purport that Pinot Noir is their passion, Riesling is their whimsy and Port and dessert wines are their bliss. They were showing a preview of their 2008 Pinot Gris, which was tart and racy with a simple nose of apple and pear. Their 2006 Signature Pinot Noir (with fruit sourced from the Dundee and Carlton Hills) was barrel-aged for one and a half years and then bottle-aged for another year. Aging the wine in barrel for longer than 12 months is a major commitment for a winery because they will have two vintages in barrel at the same time (requiring lots of extra space and additional expensive barrels). The extra time paid off and the wine showed well with plum, black cherries, tobacco complemented by a white peppery finish. Also worth mentioning is Styring’s first vintage of Pinot Noir from their estate fruit. The 2006 Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir was interesting and very earthy, with mushrooms, ripe raspberries and delicate violets. As I drove into the 40-acre farm and vineyard, I noticed a familiar cluster of white boxes and the sign for the bees. I was delighted to find Styring sells their farm-fresh local honey in attractive dessert wine bottles and when I got home later, I was disappointed I didn’t buy a case… I’ll have to remember that for the next holiday weekend!

I drove along the ridge a ways, past groups of wine tasters walking from winery to winery with glasses in hand, and located Redman Vineyards and Winery just down the road. Redman was barrel tasting their 2008 Pinot Noirs which was quite memorable; absolutely nothing beats watching the wine as it’s drawn out directly from the barrel, up into the glass shaft of the wine thief and then released into your waiting glass.

Redman had a tantalizing spread set out for their guests of foods that paired well with their lovely wines but it was owner Cathy Redman and her brother who regaled me with stories that would keep me coming back. Her and her husband Bill realized their dream and purchased the 30-acre parcel in 2004, pulling out the established hazelnut orchard and planting 22 acres to vineyards. Sadly, Bill passed away this past year, but Cathy has released a wine honoring his memory and good nature… Bill’s Blend. The story is, as typical for a winemaker and their family, that Bill and Cathy would often entertain guests. Typically, Bill would go down to the wine cellar and make a blend to pair with that evening’s meal. Their guests, who always loved the wine, usually took leftovers home in a bottle they coined Bill’s Blend. Bill’s last combination was a Pinot Noir-Barbera blend that Cathy has since produced in a very limited bottling. Bill’s Blend 2007 is now available to anyone who’d like to drink a really good hearty red wine and toast to Bill’s memory… here’s to you Bill.

My last stop of the day was Soter Vineyards. I had initially planned to arrive in time for owner Tony Soter’s demonstration of sparkling wine production, but as often happens, I was running on a different clock that day and instead arrived in time to watch the magnificent sunset and colorful view of the vineyards and the Yamhill-Carlton District stretching out in the distance (a great reason for a second visit).

Soter Vineyards is a 240-acre ranch, with 32-acres planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and a choice new winery facility situated high atop a natural mesa. Winemaker James Cahill produces single vineyard Pinot noirs and Oregon’s most elite sparkling wines made in the traditional French Methode Champenois.

Though disappointed to have missed Tony’s Champagne presentation, I was excited to finally be able to taste his wines. Greeted by an evervessant glass of 2005 Brut Rose the color of King salmon, the wine was refreshing, elegant, complex and truly exceptional—it was full of wild raspberries, strawberries with cream, honeysuckle and subtle suggestions of ginger and vanilla—and I longed for the luxury of being able to enjoy my glass. (Though I taste a lot of wine, since I’m working and driving, I primarily spit the wine out. But every so often, I come across something really extraordinary, and a sip must slip by.) With a heavy heart, I poured out the luminous and luscious liquid and filled my glass with Pinot noir. The most outstanding of the brilliant Pinot line-up was the 2006 Mineral Springs Pinot Noir (the second vintage from their estate vineyard). This high-caliber wine was shooting off rounds of red plum, blackberry, cranberry and moist earth with great precision, hitting its mark with a kick of clove and pepper only slightly muzzled by the long, smooth and velvety finish that stayed with me even as I drove away.

Thanksgiving weekend proved to be a wonderful time in wine country… it only took me six years and a personal quest to finally make it happen. I sometimes forget how fortunate I am to have opportunities like these to taste such premium and highly sought after wines so readily available. But that is after all part of the reason I started this journey, to visit these wineries I had heard so much about, to truly experience the gamut of Oregon wine—and at 104 wineries, I am just beginning to understand that scope. But my lesson today has been well learned. It’s an old lesson, but one worth reminding. Carpe Diem—Seize the Day. Don’t let the years (much less a moment) pass you by without embracing all the experiences this wide world offers, especially not overlooking what may lie in your own backyard. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Do You Know Where to Get Cozy in Oregon’s Wine Country?

The rain’s pouring down in soggy wet sheets, but don’t let that keep you from exploring Oregon’s wine country. Granted, you won’t enjoy the same scenic and mountain views, and you certainly won’t be playing Bocce or picnicking alongside ripening grapevines—but with less crowds and other options, off-season is a prime opportunity to taste wine and explore new wine regions. So on one exceptionally rainy autumn day, I took a very different route to wine country. I drove my car onto the Wheatland Ferry; which carried me across the rain-swollen Willamette River where I located Arcane Cellars at Wheatland Winery along the river’s banks.

Being located immediately adjacent to the Wheatland Ferry, Arcane Cellar’s Vineyard and Facilities Manager Jeff Silva naturally was a library of information about it. While he poured me through his line-up in the chilly winery, he charmed me with history: I learned that there used to be over 150 ferries crossing the Willamette River—but today, the Wheatland Ferry is one of only three remaining, and is the only full-time ferry operating. Two years ago, a new three-million-dollar, dual-cable ferry was installed to handle the quarter-million cars that cross every year. In favorable weather, Arcane offers vineyard-side Bocce, picnic grounds and outdoor tasting from their mobile bar. Watching the torrential downpour from inside was a bit different experience, but Jeff was in high spirits and his energy was infectious.

Jeff’s son Jason Silva is Arcane Cellar’s winemaker and the two have a long history in winemaking together beginning with their own Pilgrim Vineyards; the first winery in Massachusetts. Jason went to graduate school for Medieval English Literature (before studying oenology), where he found much of his inspiration for Arcane’s logo, label design and branding elements—featuring alchemic symbols and philosophy. Arcane means mysterious, secret and obscure—which the wines may be now, but winning awards like they are, they’re unlikely to remain that way for long.

Driving through a torrential downpour to the next winery along the Amity tour, I noticed the farm workers wrapping up Christmas trees for export and both felt bad for them working in that miserable weather and tried to deny that the holiday season is springing into full bloom.

I pulled into Hauer of the Dauen (pronounced Hour of the Dawn) where I disrupted Carl Dauenhauer from his afternoon newspaper on a day when the quiet is only broken by sound of the smattering rain, a periodic clap of thunder… and the occasional pesky wine taster. Hauer of the Dauen (from the family name), I’d come to learn, means “Striking of the Sunrise” in German. Carl biodyamically farms 140 acres of vineyards outside Dayton, produces only Estate-grown wines, and specializes in pouring older vintages of seven varietals in the quirky but relaxed tasting room. Clearly memorable, was a 2002 Oregon Lemberger that tasted of prunes, black currants and leather—standing out in my mind as Hauer of Dauen is the only grower/producer of this German varietal in Oregon—and a 2000 Pinot Noir Reserve (because frankly, how many nine-year-old Pinots do you get to taste? It’s usually the most current vintage) with lovely tinged-brown slightly oxidized color from age and earthy elements carrying the black fruit on its back. Carl sent me along with my bottle of Lemberger and a smile and off I set out into the mystic.

Well, on to Mystic Wines that is. Owner and winemaker Rick Mafit is surprisingly producing brilliant “Big Reds” in the west hills of Salem. With only nine acres planted, Rick gets most of his fruit from The Dalles, Oregon (in the Columbia Gorge) and has produced Oregon’s first commercial bottling of Barbera (fruit from Hood River, Oregon). Mystic’s label is a bit confusing, but when you hear it was designed by Rick’s son (when he was just a teenager), it makes sense. Using cork paper, the labels look creative and stand apart from many of the more traditional wine labels you see on the shelves.

With the wineries mostly deserted everywhere else, Mystic Wines was like a festive party. A group from Salem had rented a limousine and was out tasting and when I asked them what they were out celebrating, they simply replied, “Saturday.” Ahhh…, a group after my own heart.

Rick was telling dirty jokes behind the bar and pouring his magnificent and expressive wines while a visiting guest started up a fire to cozy up the old house. Actually, the woman who started the fire seemed like a local and regular and I later found out she worked at nearby winery called Red Hawk, but I was impressed with how Rick was able to get this beautiful lady to start a fire for him. Rick produces a Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, Barbera and Pinot noir. Though I loved the 2006 Syrah with lots of black—black plum, black licorice and black pepper, my hands down favorite was the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon. It was gorgeous with blackberries, blueberries, vanilla, cocoa and some herbal notes drifting in the background. With the rain slowing down, but all the views still obscured, I left Mystic without seeing all the mountain peaks usually on display and went to visit Methven Family Vineyards.

Get past the images of seedy drug vehicles the name Methven brings to mind and embrace their traditional Scottish history instead. Dr. Alan & Jill Methvn take pride in their heritage (and their name) and provide a warm and elegant tasting room to experience their wines. Methven Family Vineyards has only 30 acres planted to grapes on their 100-acre estate, but with wine growing neighbors, the vines look like they go on for miles.

Dave, who had poured for me at Zena’s in Carlton, was tending the old honey maple bar; originally from Lincoln City, Oregon and being the only ones there, we were probably having a bit too much fun. I told Dave I heard an entire bottle of wine fits in one Riedel Oregon Pinot Noir glass and he showed me how, as a bartender, he could win big money with that trick. He took an empty bottle of wine, filled it up with water and then proceeded to pour it all into one glass—but Officer, I just had one glass of wine!

Getting back to the business at hand, I must mention Methven’s wines, because they are quite worth the mention. The 2007 Pinot Gris, crafted by winemaker Chris Lubberstedt, was exceptional… even on a cold, rainy day. Far beyond a summer sipper, this wine had complex layers of sweet green melon, tart green apples and floral jasmine. I also loved the 2007 Citizen’s Cuvee Pinot Noir, which had a light and lithe body, bright red acidic fruit, soft dried rose petals and a touch of cool mint running through. I valued Methven’s non-pretentious style (especially keeping a sense of humor), which showed when Dave presented the Pinot noir “Reserves” and told me they were reserved for someone with $45.

With an outdoor patio to soak up the breathtaking valley and mountain views, and a bocce ball court for added recreation, the winery could easily be an all-day affair (especially with weekend concerts throughout the summer months). But for me, my tasting had come to an end, and it was time to bid Dave adieux and return to my life in the suburbs.

Driving home it occurred to me that historically, it was often imperfect weather that kept me from wine tasting during the wetter months. Yes, it’s true, lingering romantic wine-filled lunches don’t have to disappear just because the sun and the view do—today’s lesson teaches that in the off-season, you just have to be a bit more creative. Mystic near Salem, Tyrus Evans and Anne Amie in Carlton, Coelho in Amity and Maysara in McMinnville are all examples of fantastic winter wineries… they each have comfortable seating areas, with fireplaces, food and some even have games to while away the day. So, next time the rain comes beating down your door, escape to wine country—find a nice cozy spot to snuggle up with a glass of wine and let it warm you from the inside out. Until we sip again…

Cheers!