Welcome the Harvest Season with Parsnips, Cream and Bacon… Cheers to Vintage 2011

After reading this insightful post from Wind Up Bird Communications about the importance of being oneself, I was truly inspired. I realized that amongst other things, I am still a writer and fancy myself something of a raconteur, and these elements culminate in my blog, and to that I must remain true. So, what better way to revive this sleepy web log, which has been resting for nearly a year, than with an infusion of the 2011 harvest season?

Backstory: I got my foothold in the Oregon wine industry door working for Ponzi Vineyards as their Marketing Communications Manager many moons ago. I can remember the first harvest season I went through while employed there… it was soooo romantic. Heck, for me, just being on the grounds of a working winery was like a storybook story. Daily, I’d watch from my office window, as the timid deer, turkey vultures and quail made their welcomed appearances, wandering by with reckless abandon. With my front row seat, I could literally watch the grapes ripening on the vines as I wrote engaging newsletter copy and designed ads.

When “Crush” began, it was like a whole nother animal. The fruit arrived and the structured frenzy that ensued was like a magnificently choreographed dance. Everyone knew their part and everyone performed like the spotlight was on them… and for all intents and purposes, it was. The forklift driver was under tremendous pressure to lift and deliver tons of grapes to the people on the sorting line, who waited with baited breath like gold-panners ready to sift through the next drop. Everyone worked tangentially, in unison, to get the succulent fruit from the vineyard to the totes and into fermentation bins or the presses as quickly as they could, and this rarely happened in favorable weather conditions. On my way to the fax machine, I'd pass through the main winery building where the harvest crew would be punching down the grapes that were going through their period of cold soak… the fruit still so fresh and sticky sweet as the air became thick with the drone of the fruit flies. I'd make my way passed the cool barrel room, heavy with aromas of oak and age that would stop me in my tracks and force me to inhale their thick and dusky scent, practically making me forget the whole reason I was there in the first place. Oh yeah, the fax.

Trying to get my work done during harvest typically included dodging fruit totes, hoses, fermenter bins, people, trucks, forklifts, muddy boots and vicious yellow jackets… not that I'm complaining. It also included leisurely and satisfying harvest lunches prepared by professional chefs served with world-class wine at a table surrounded by international and interesting people all passionate about the same the thing… it was my first experience to truly live and breathe "Harvest".

In addition to the winery, the Ponzi family owns a restaurant in the heart of Oregon’s wine country called The Dundee Bistro. Back in the day (though I’m not sure if they do this anymore), they used to have the sous chef from their restaurant come up and cook for the hungry (understatement) harvest crew. They generously allowed the regular staff (me) to join in on the elaborate lunches, and since I’m one admittedly and easily wooed by fine food and wine, you know I was smitten. One day, Chef Eddie made us a Parsnip Soup with Bacon Crumbles, which he selected a gorgeous Ponzi Pinot Blanc to pair with. I’d honestly never really met a parsnip I liked prior to that, in fact for years, I'd been picking them out of my mom's homemade chicken soups.Yet here Eddie had fashioned them into a soup which immediately became tops on of my list of favorites. And with the wine, it was sheer perfection; the acidity cut right through both the cream of the soup and salt of the bacon while the tart and floral components in the wine were effortlessly balanced by the sweet and savory qualities of the parsnips. I might have even swooned or drooled… or both.

Eddie somehow pulled off a disappearing act during lunch before I had a chance to pin him down for the recipe, he must have been onto me. When I called him at the restaurant the next day in an effort to obtain cooking instructions for the most fabulous and surprisingly delicious soup I’d ever tasted, I believe he told me he didn’t really have an actual recipe for it, and might have even said that he’d just pulled it out of his ass. Well, it certainly didn’t taste like it came out of his ass, but he clearly wasn't going to be any help. Over the next several months, I experimented with many versions, until I came upon this one from Emeril Lagasse and the Food Network, which seemed to be as close to Eddie’s as I could really recall, though I've added nutmeg to his recipe for added intrigue. The addition of the potato crisps indeed requires a bit more effort, and though not required, truly is worth the trouble. Alternatively, you could serve it with a loaf of bread, make your own boule like my industrious blogger friend Todd at the Portland Charcuterie Project for a seriously yummy treat.

Each year, as the days grow noticeably shorter, the skies begin to darken and the weather starts to turn chilly and less forgiving, I turn to this hearty dinner to warm up with and celebrate the arrival of the fall season. Last weekend, at the Lake Oswego Farmers Market, after I found these prized parnsips and dry-cured Maialino bacon, I realized what time of year it was already and immediately knew what was destined be on my menu in the coming week. So tonight, in honor of  Crush 2011, I’ll be serving up this heart-warming and tummy-satisfying soup (inspired by Chef Eddie and the Ponzis), alongside an excpetional 2010 Willakenzie Pinot Blanc I’ve set aside especially for the occasion. Though I do wish you could join me at my table, you can recreate this meal on your own, with your own bottle of Oregon Pinot Blanc. You could also try it with Oregon Pinot Gris for another delightful pairing, either way I'm certain it will become a favorite of yours as well. I raise my glass of refreshing Pinot Blanc to the entire Oregon wine industry and send wishes of safety, fun and success for Vintage 2011… cheers!

Cream of Parsnip Soup with Potato Crisps and Bacon
By Emeril Lagasse

Ingredients
3 tablespoons butter
2 cups chopped onions
1 cup chopped celery
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg

10 cups chicken stock
3 pounds parsnips, peeled and diced
1/4 to 1/2 cup heavy cream
6 ounces raw bacon, chopped
1/2 pound new potatoes, thinly sliced and soaking in cold water
1 tablespoon chopped chives

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Melt the butter in a 6-quart stock pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and celery. Season with salt and pepper. Saute until the vegetables are soft, about 4 minutes. Add the bay leaf, garlic and nutmeg and stir another minute until the spices release their aromatics.
3. Add the stock and parsnips and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the parsnips are very soft, about 1 hour.
4. Remove soup from heat and allow to cool a little. Discard bay leaf.
5. Using a hand-held blender, carefully puree soup until smooth. Stir in cream. Season with salt and pepper.
6. In a small saute pan, over medium heat, render bacon until crispy. Remove the bacon, drain on paper towels and reserve bacon fat.
7. Pour bacon fat onto cookie sheet and add the potato slices in one layer (because what isn't better cooked in bacon grease?). Put into the preheated oven and cook until potatoes are crispy and brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer potatoes to paper towel lined plate when done. Season with salt.
8. To serve, ladle the soup into serving bowls. Garnish with the crispy potatoes, bacon and chives.

In Honor of the Harvest… Romancing the Vine

He stands before her
She is naked
Innocent
Fresh
Exposed
Vulnerable
All life and limbs
She quivers
Feeling his hot breath on her bare extremities
Cutting the chill of the biting morning air

He stands before her

Coaxing from her

Gentle beauty

Development

Growth

Potential

All the promise of the future

He savors each moment with her

As if it’s their last

He’s tender

Gentle

Caring

Nurturing

Cultivating

He loves her

Sees things in her no other sees

He persuades her

Tugs on her

Pulls on her

Supports her

Tucks her in

Moves her where he wants her to be

She surrenders to his will

Lets him guide her

He stands before her

His strong and agile hands

So dirty

Fondling her

Flesh

Fruit

She submits
She succumbs

He stands before her

Charming her

Encouraging her

To finish

Pick

Pluck

He casts her off

To be savored by others

She stands alone

Stripped

Bare

Crushed

Squeezed

Squashed

Thinking only of him

He who allowed her to be

She retreats into herself

Quiet

Dormant

Still

She wonders if he even remembers

Knowing he thinks about the next

As she prepares to give all of herself

To her love

To him

Again.

What's Really In that Glass of Wine

Hold the smooth, cool glass in your nimble fingers. Rest your gaze firmly on the fluid inside, fixed stare… hypnotic. Like a diamond, you study it closely, looking for composition, color and clarity. You focus your attention to these qualities but before you’re even aware it’s happened, the liquid has released its aromas and it's already made a solid and lasting impression on you. Part of reason that wine makes such an immediate impression on you is that so many things have made an impression on that wine in in the process of delivering it from vineyard to glass. So what's really in that glass of wine? Here’s just a few things that came to mind…

Rich blood, sweet sweat and salty tears.

A snapshot of a growing season—wind, rain, sun, blue skies, sunsets, rainbows and clouds.

A whole lot of money—barrels, bottles, corks, capsules, labels, equipment and staff.

Bugs.

Dirt.

Skin, pulp, seeds, stems.

Sickness, health.

Respect, love, appreciation, admiration.

Passion, tenderness.

Someone’s hopes, dreams, expectations, aspirations, successes, failures.

Life.

Illahe - Is it the Name of a Winery or a Tropical Island?

Illahe, it sounds like it could be the name of some exotic island I wouldn’t mind being shipwrecked on, but it’s actually a Chinook jargon word meaning soil, earth or land. Illahe Vineyards and Winery, located in Dallas, Oregon, aims to produce wines reflecting the variety of soil, earth and land on their 50-acre estate.

Founder, Lowell Ford has always been a visionary, growing wine grapes in Oregon since 1983 and then helping to create the Northwest Viticulture Center at Chemeketa Community College.

One of the things that drew me to Illahe Vineyards initially was how creatively they go about being environmentally conscious; for instance, they use horse-drawn trailers to harvest their grapes (see my previous post 10 Oregon Wineries Making One Small Change). Their marketing brochure advertises how they crush their fruit using the traditional French method of pigeage. My understanding of traditional pigeage means that naked men press the ripe fruit and skins down with their feet. I didn’t ask how traditional their pigeage was, but I sure am wondering!

Bethany Williams started my tasting off with their 2009 Viognier aged entirely in stainless steel yet thick with tropical aromas of mango, pineapple, peach and banana and beautifully bright acidity. Illahe started producing this wine on a fluke, when they got some of the fruit from Albany for free (score of the century), and it’s turned out to be a real keeper. The 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley was deliciously mouthwatering and showed succulent raspberries, tart red cherries with a long, spicy cinnamon finish.

In honor of Earth Day, on the day I visited Illahe, there were several wineries showing their goods as well:

WildAire Cellars was founded in 2005 as the shared dream of Matt and Jean Driscoll of McMinnville, Oregon. The Driscolls produce their wines at Illahe’s winery and actually use some of Illahe’s fruit as well. The WildAire 2008 Timothy Pinot Noir, named in honor of Matt’s father who passed away two years ago, was clearly a fine tribute with lush flavors of wild raspberries, rainier cherries, vanilla and lovely yet lingering cinnamon spice. The 2008 Pinot Noir Reserve had considerably more new oak and showed a less fruit-forward and more complex nose of cherry, rhubarb, tobacco and rose.

Michael Lundeen is the owner, winemaker and viticulturalist for his tiny backyard vineyard, producing his Genius Loci wines at Illahe’s production facility (and is also Illahe’s winemaker). He grows the Pinot Gris for his 2008 Cuvee Desiree, which was aged in neutral oak and showed incredible depth with flavors of pear, almond, apple and ginger. When he told me he blends it with 5% Gewürztraminer, I better understood the spicy and savory notes underneath the fruit. The Genius Loci 2008 Pinot Noir was quite remarkable with a nose of blackberry bramble, cherries, tobacco, black tea and a floral delicacy that played against the kicky white pepper finish. The real star was his 2007 Syrah from Folin Vineyard; there was so much going on, I’m not sure where to start. First, I picked up two aromas, then four… next thing the wine’s exploding in my glass with plums, currants, licorice, chocolate and eucalyptus. The wine had a broad mouth, with medium-to-firm tannins and generous acidity that balanced out the fruit and spice flavors—gorgeous and memorable.

On my way out, I stopped and visited Illahe’s worker horses.They came up to say hi to me until they realized my carrot wasn’t a carrot after all, but a camera instead and tried to get away—say cheese! What I really wanted to do was climb up on one of their big, warm, bare backs and gallop down a remote, sandy beach somewhere. I mentioned my desire to escape to an exotic, tropical island, right? Perhaps if I said “Illahe, Illahe, Illahe” and clicked my heels together I’d get there. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Ten Oregon Wineries Make One Small Change

Inspired both by my dear friend Rachel’s blog, 6512 and Growing, about making “One Small Change” and Willamette Valley Vineyards tweet about their cork-recycling program on Twitter, I decided to take a closer look at the one thing ten Oregon wineries are doing to make a difference in the environment (and the world). Here’s what I uncovered:

1. Willamette Valley Vineyards - The first winery in the world to use cork certified through the Rainforest Alliance’s Forest Stewardship Council standards and to offer an in-house cork recycling program.
2. Maysara (Momtazi Vineyards) – Over 250 acres of some of the most well respected certified biodynamic vineyards in Oregon.
3. Duck Pond Cellars – Plants a tree in a Northwest fire-ravaged forest for every bottle sold in Oregon and Washington during March and April, 2010.
4. Ponzi Vineyards – Switched to “green” glass, which is both lighter and more eco-friendly.
5. Illahe Vineyards and Winery – In addition to solar panels and rainwater collection systems, during harvest (instead of tractors) you’ll find horses and donkeys pulling grape-loden carts (not only are they bio-fuel propelled, but they produce compost along the way)! 
6. Belle Pente – Practices Integrated Farming by planting grasses and utilizing sheep and goats for vineyard maintenance and manure mix.
7. Stoller Vineyards – LEED gold-certified winery with solar power and wastewater reclamation (not to mention a sweet little disc golf course).
8. Winderlea Winery – Features a charging station in their parking lot for electric cars.
9. Amity Vineyards - Producer of Eco-Wine, Oregon's first organic and sulfite-free Pinot noir.
10. Sokol Blosser – In addition to eco-glass, solar power, organic vineyards, biodiesel operated equipment, the first U.S. LEED certified winery, Susan Sokol Blosser continues to set the bar high with her commitment to the environment. So, what’s she doing now? She’s trying to protect and preserve Oregon’s agriculture and economy from the inside by making a political run for Legislature. Good luck Susan!

My inspiration for this post, Rachel, is one of those people who just makes me want to be a better person and a proper steward of my environment. She lives very simply yet meaningfully, is abundantly resourceful and somehow manages to produce a substantial amount of the family’s food supply, which absolutely blows my mind. Her husband Dan hunts elk and deer each year, which they butcher themselves, family-style. Meaning everyone pitches in, even the toddlers help grind and wrap… it’s an amazing sight (click on the link and see for yourself!). Having tasted the fruits of their labor, I can attest to the beauty of the process, but I’m in awe of their abilities as I think this is so beyond what I could do. So, I can’t hunt and butcher my meat myself, I have no sun for a garden (and I wouldn’t think about making my own wine, yet), but I can do something more to make my own small change. I’m already dedicated to buying local as much as humanly possible and I purchase almost all organic products, but when it comes down to it, I’m still just being a consumer… a drain on resources; I don’t actually produce anything (except the words on this page). So, in honor of Rachel and the Oregon wineries committed to being forward thinkers, my one small change is to stop buying one thing each month—be it bread, tortillas, pickles or ricotta cheese—and start making it myself instead. Hopefully I’ll make enough to share… that is, if you’re nice! Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Life's Lessons… in a Bottle of Wine

I roamed the countryside yet again, blazing my own wine trail as I taste across Oregon. On an early fall afternoon, I visited Penner-Ash Wine Cellars, driving past their vineyards, already showing the telltale signs of surrendering to the winter. It’s probably one of my favorite times in the vineyard—the fruit has all been harvested, the nights are getting cooler (especially at higher elevations) and the plants inherently know it’s time to shut down; turning all shades of yellow, orange, red and brown before they drop their leaves and become bare till the following spring. The process by which the vines do this is astounding. Different parts of the vineyard begin to change colors at different times, and almost like a psychedelic watercolor, the hues swirl together yet at the same time are so distinctively separate, it almost defies nature. I felt like this kalaidascope of color was nature’s personal gift to me that day.

Penner-Ash is in an 80-acre estate ideally perched high above the Chehalem Valley revealing striking views of the estate as well as Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. In addition to the expansive outdoor panoramas, Penner-Ash brings the view indoors with sizable windows that put the wine cellar on display. The day I was there, I saw Lynn Penner-Ash out on the Crush Pad, which was being swarmed by stubborn yellow-jackets, and at least two dozen vats of grapes fermenting.

The stunning tasting room with slate mosaic floor and tasteful art for purchase was quiet and Patty was giving me one-on-one service until, as if all it once, it was suddenly full and I had to share her with the other guests. She gracefully handled the crowd, whom we had guessed to be the “after-church crowd”, with a smile. Part of the horde actually turned out to be a rambunctious group visiting from out of state, converging on Wine Country, Oregon to celebrate their 60th birthdays, happy birthday friends!

The wines were luxurious in both taste and price. Penner-Ash makes one Estate Pinot Noir and purchases the remainder of the fruit from valued vineyard sites all over Oregon to produce an interesting line-up of wines. I particularly enjoyed their 2008 Viognier which had a lovely body consisting of a clean yet slightly creamy, oily texture with a core of ripe pear, top notes of melon and citrus and the typical apricot finish. The 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir had succulent red raspberries, cherries and strawberries with subtle accents of chocolate, spice and smoke. There were four single-vineyard designates, each with a different flavor profile representative of the particular vineyard’s location. The 2007 Estate Pinot Noir was still very young and fruit-forward with big, bold black cherries and plum yet also well-rounded with some rose petals, Cherry Vanilla Coke and light base of peppery tannins.

I’ve always enjoyed my experiences at Penner-Ash; with exceptional wine and a patio overlooking one of the best views in town, it’s the perfect spot for a romantic picnic, a family lunch or just an afternoon getaway.

My next stop along Ribbon Ridge Road was the brand new Trisaetum tasting room, winery and vineyard. The tasting room, come art gallery, displays owner and winemaker James Frey’s photography and vivid abstract expressionist works; many of which incorporate vines and vineyard soil into the powerful, articulate and vibrant pieces.

While perusing the passionate visual representation of James’ art, I was equally enjoying the creative statement he makes with his wines. Partnering with fellow winemaker Greg McClellan, the two crafted their first vintage in 2007 with a selection of three Rieslings and two Pinot Noirs, which Tasting room associate Courtney Ashford proceeded to pour for me. Of those, the 2007 Trisaetum Riesling was ripe with grapefruit, white flowers and peaches with nicely balanced sweetness and acidity; the 2007 Tristae Pinot Noir was a remarkable and approachable blend with dark cherry and blackberry fruit, smoke, spice, just the right amount of velvety texture in the mouth and acids to make it food-friendly, as a Pinot noir should be. The 2007 Trisaetum Pinot Noir had a deep, ruby color, predominantly cherry flavor with structure making it built to last. And like a bite of dark chocolate at the end of the day, I finished my tasting with a long sip of the 2008 Lassa Riesling. The sweet, golden colored wine was like a bouquet of tropical flowers and fruit. It was light, despite its density and with flavors of peach and apricot finishing long and clean. Trisaetum is definitely worth a visit on your own tour of Oregon wine.

Located just off Ribbon Ridge Road, but still part of the smallest American Viticultural Area (AVA) consisting of five-miles of some of the most sought-after fruit, lies Aramenta Cellars. Co-owner and co-winemaker Darlene Looney was convivially pouring wines that day in their relaxed yet rustic and farm-like tasting room.

Darlene poured a Chardonnay and three Pinot noirs from the Estate vineyard to start. I tasted the 2006 and 2007 vintage Pinot Noir Willamette Valleys, preferring the latter with Bing cherry, red raspberry, white pepper and soft floral essences. The 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve had a nice dark, black fruit sweetness on the lips, like eating blackberries straight from the bramble, and some faint pepper and spice on the finish. Darlene told me she has five sons, of which one makes beer and three make wine, with their first vintage under the label Brothers.

Enjoy the wine on the small outdoor patio, draped in hops, scenically overlooking the converted wooden barn winery, pond and vineyards. For a real experience, see what it’s like relaxing on the grounds after closing time and stay the night in Aramenta’s vineyard guest suite.

My final stop of the day brought me to Bergstrom Wines in the Dundee Hills. Family owned and operated for the past decade (and certified biodynamic) winemaker, vineyard manager and general Manager Josh Bergstrom crafts his wines in the classic Burgundian style.

The 2007 Chardonnay was truly a favorite of mine and exceptional with sweet yet tart aromas of lemon meringue pie, apples, pears, honey and toasted nuts that all came through on the palate as well. The wine had enough structure and minerality to age well into the next decade but balanced acidity that lifted and refreshed the palate, making it an ideal food-pairing wine, now. Though at $75, it’s the most expensive white wine in the Willamette Valley, and though admittedly decadently deelish, I do wonder about its position in the current market.

Deanna Toney was providing warm and friendly tasting room service while she eloquently explained the make-up of the 2007 Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir, “It’s a blend of 15 different vineyards with all of Oregon’s six AVAs represented in one glass,” she said. The wine had a rich garnet color, lovely and complex perfume and was bursting with cherries, raspberries, coffee and chocolate indicative of this region. The estate wine, the 2007 de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir, was a bit sassier and quite different than the Cumberland with intense, pronounced flavors of wild black forest fruit (blackberries, huckleberries, marionberries) and sassy kicks of nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. The highlight was the memorable Chardonnay, but a close runner up was the 2007 Bergstrom Vineyard Pinot Noir. This youthful yet elegant wine showed signs of tremendous promise for ageability. It already possessed many of the benchmark Pinot noir characteristics like red cherry, rose petals, a touch of fallen leaves and subtle spice and with its focused flavors, lush and silky mid-palate and a long and pleasant finish, this wine was still a winner in my book.

I watched Lily, the resident black lab who seemed to think there was a revolving door to the tasting room as she had everyone so well trained to open doors for her. I followed her out to the partially covered patio where together, for but a moment, time stood still as we enjoyed the vineyard views with rolling hills and oak trees beyond, before Lily meandered back to the tasting room door, knocking to be let back in while I went on my way. I left Bergstrom with a bottle the Cumberland Reserve feeling satisfied that my single bottle purchase will be enjoyed and was a genuine example of quality Oregon Pinot noir, but secretly I was wishing I could have bought a case of the ’07 Bergstrom Vineyard. Some day.

As much as weekend tasting has become a part of my new routine, so has thinking about and deriving my lessons for each blog post on the way home. I started thinking about lessons and how each bottle itself is its own lesson with something remarkable to teach; a lesson about the weather patterns the year the fruit set, geography, soil conditions, the history of a family, the determination of the winemaker. It teaches us about hard work, joy, beauty, appreciation, passion and failure. I embrace the lessons each bottle teaches me and I hope you do too. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Living La Dolce Vita… in Carlton

Driving along the back-country roads past farmhouses where livestock aplenty roam sprawling acreage, I couldn’t help but reminisce about my years living in the remote countryside of southwestern Colorado where my daily commute was more like a scenic route along similar roads, past similar farmhouses with similar sprawling acreage.

I pulled into the quaint little town of Carlton with one blinking stoplight and a quiet demeanor. I immediately noticed the Tyrus Evan tasting room in the old train Depot and since traditionally train stations would be the first impression visitors had of a town, I figured it would be an appropriate first stop for me as well.

Built in 1923, the notable historic Depot is experiencing a new revival as a tasting room for Tyrus Evan’s wines. But once upon a time, it was Carlton’s “Red Electric Car Station,” established as a way station along the Southern Pacific Railroad between Portland and St. Joseph to help farmers get their produce to the nearby cities without having to travel such great distances. The Old-West feeling has been beautifully and authentically preserved and is seen throughout the Victorian-era building, from structural features to western-themed décor which also vividly and almost painfully reminded me of the establishments in the old-western town of Durango, Colorado where I lived before landing in Oregon.

Legendary Oregon Pinot noir winemaker Ken Wright crafts Tyrus Evan wines and the label is named for his two sons (their middle names actually) who may one day take the helm. In the meantime, Ken has a chance to work with some warmer-climate varietals specializing in big, juicy, expressive and mouth-watering Syrahs and Clarets (varietal blends also known as Bordeaux) using fruit from friends with some of the best vineyard sites in the Pacific Northwest. Depending on the vintage, Ken also makes Viognier, Chardonnay and individual bottlings of Cabernet Franc or Malbec.

The inviting and comfortable tasting room features a traditional parlor area with plush seating which was occupied by a group amusing themselves on a perfectly lazy Sunday afternoon with a variety of board games, wine and a lovely cheese plate complete with pepper jelly and dried pears (available for purchase). The wines were presented in individual glasses on a clever tasting placemat printed with each of the wine’s vintage, varietal (or blend), vineyards and price. Tyrus Evan has given new meaning to the marketing term “branding” as their label itself ingeniously looks like a cattle brand. Ken plans on keeping production small, but as the secret gets out, I’m not sure how possible that will be.

The real beauty of downtown Carlton, besides the obvious and external visual beauty, is that it’s a destination in and of itself. With tasting rooms, restaurants and shops all within a few-block’s walk, I just parked my car and wandered the town for the day. I found my way into Scott Paul Wines, where in striking contrast to the soothing, “days of yore” feeling of Tyrus Evan, the more contemporary bustling bar was offering up a Scott Paul Pinot noir as well as a variety of French Burgundy imports to taste.

Founders and proprietors Martha and Scott Wright were both behind the bar sharing their passion, their story and their wines. Founded first in 1999, they built their current winery and tasting room in 2005 (complete for the 2006 vintage which is on their current tasting menu) in two buildings dating back to 1915 when they were used as a granary and creamery. The original granary roof was recycled and used for both the tasting room ceiling and bar front—serving its purpose decoratively, artistically and functionally.

Because Scott Paul is a direct national importer for small family producers in Burgundy France, what they do special, (in addition to their elegant Pinot noir which is true to both location and the classic French style) is offer guests the experience of tasting Old World and New World Pinot noir side by side. The French Pinots were lovely, but I’m not going to remark on them because they’re not part of my Oregon tour of wine. The 2006 Scott Paul La Paulee Pinot Noir was inviting and somewhat mysterious. The ‘06 vintage produced wines that were concentrated, big and fruity, as was this one. Though lacking any real earthy characteristics, there was a beautiful, soft under-layer of roses, strawberries and pepper that made the wine bold while maintaining its finesse; a good example of balance. The wine was a blend of four different vineyards sites from all over the Willamette Valley including the prized Shea, Ribbon Ridge, Momtazzi and Stoller Vineyards. I left Scott Paul thinking about how everyone has their own unique story; and like all stories, some are better than others.

Solena has one of the most romantic stories by far. In 2000, Laurant and Danielle Andrus Montalieu purchased an eighty-acre estate as a wedding gift to each other. The story goes that instead of registering for traditional gifts like china, crystal and silver, the couple registered for clones of Pinot noir to plant their vineyard. Ultimately, I guess all the love of their family and friends can be found in each of the vines and each individual cluster of grapes. Solena, named for the couple’s daughter, is a combination of two names meaning “sun” and “moon”, and to the Montalieus it represents the celebration of life. They also own and operate NW Wine Company which is a custom winemaking facility located in McMinnville where small producers can use state of the art equipment to vinify their wines. The Montalieus are also preparing to open a brand new winery and tasting room in Yamhill (as to whether they’ll continue with their downtown location, has still yet to be decided).

Lynnette was pouring the wine in the tasting room that day, and though she slyly confessed to me it was only her third day, her understanding of the brand and the wines was that of a seasoned professional. Solena makes an estate Pinot noir and sources the rest of the fruit for a full portfolio of wines making for a new tasting experience every time you visit. While I really enjoyed all the wines, the one that struck me the most was the 2007 Grand Cuvee. At only $25, this value-driven wine didn’t lack in quality one bit. The deep, ruby color was enhanced with the aromas of pie cherries and sweet strawberries with nuances of floral and spice. The bright acids in this lively wine reminded me of how good Pinots are enhanced by lighter foods like fish, pork and chicken, and I thought the ’07 Grand Cuvee would be the perfect food complement, so I bought a bottle for the collection.

Located in the old bank building, circa 1910, you’ll find The Tasting Room and EIEIO, named by owner and winemaker Jay “Old” McDonald that is the oldest tasting room in Carlton. I really enjoyed the use of the original bank vault as a wine cellar holding nearly 50 different Northwest varietals.  I was confused and slightly put off when the manager explained to me she didn’t honor industry discounts because she was a retail outlet. If they’re the tasting room for EIEIO and sell other wine too, how was that different from any other tasting room in the Valley?

I left pondering this dilemma but quickly forgot when I arrived at Troon Vineyard’s tasting room located on N. Kutch, just off the main drag. The organically grown vineyards are located in the Applegate Valley near Grants Pass, Oregon and they just completed a brand new winery facility with tasting room and full kitchen where you can taste at the source. The Carlton tasting room allows the winery to reach an even larger audience though and they will continue their Carlton presence.

Troon’s tasting room was large and interesting with unfinished cement walls and enormous cement bins holding at least a pallet of wine in each. Karissa kindly poured me through the current flight; which started with a classic 2008 Viognier smelling of pear and green apple with lingering tastes of apricot and lemon grass. I also enjoyed the 2005 Blossom Fire Cabernet Reserve; which if I closed my eyes, it very well could have been a bowlful of plums, black cherries, licorice and toffee-covered hazelnuts. The 2007 Druids Fluid is the winery’s bestseller. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Zinfandel and Syrah, this fruit-forward wine was pleasing with a mouthful of sweet, chocolate covered cherries and red raspberries. Hunter and I enjoyed a bottle on that early fall evening with a hearty chili con carne which warmed us to the bone. You know I’m not the biggest fan of stickies (sweet wines), so I was somewhat reluctant when I saw a Tempranillo Port on the tasting horizon. Troon removed all doubt from my mind with their lovely and distinguished 2007 Insomnia Port. Paired with Honest Chocolate’s truffles, the wine was ripe with flavors of dates, currants, candied apples and amaretto and was the perfect end to the perfect day. My lesson for the day was simple. Never question or never turn down a little dolce. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Work a Day in My Vineyard…

I headed off towards downtown Carlton again for what quickly was becoming my routine weekly wine tasting sojourn and found myself awestruck and emotionally moved by the powerful colors of Fall beginning to strangle out the last life of Summer. The hazelnut trees were shedding their fruit into a veritable carpet of brown nuts in the orchards and the excitement of Harvest was buzzing all around.

My first stop of the day was the six-acre vineyard estate of Carlo & Julian located just on the edge of town. With roosters squawking, an abundance of cats roaming the grounds, a certain wild feeling and a virtually unmarked tasting room in the wine cellar, I wasn’t sure I was in the right place until winemaker and proprietor, Felix Madrid quickly and quietly assured me I was.

Felix invited me into the tasting area located in the cool and dark barrel room whose focal point (besides the oak barrels full of aging wine) was an antique stained glass window recovered from a church in Nova Scotia appropriately decorated with the words “Go work a day in my vineyard”. That window got me thinking: Winemaking seems like such a romantic gig, but until you’ve walked a mile in someone else’s shoes, or worked a day in their vineyard, you really could never understand the blood, sweat and tears that goes into each bottle.

Felix of course grows Pinot Noir, however he is the only vineyard in downtown Carlton growing sophisticated and distinctive Tempranillo, Merlot, Carmeniere and Malbec (in line with his Argentinean heritage); and in this vast sea of Pinot Noir, it was most interesting to explore some other varietals grown in the region. I wondered if thoughts of global warming were motivating Felix to grow some warmer climate varietals, but I’ve heard that Carlton is its own little micro-climate with a pocket of warmer air and I’ve noticed several of the wineries in the area experimenting with red wine varietals other than Pinot noir. One of the things I really liked, and admired, about Carlo & Julian was the simplicity of everything. There was no pretense, no fancy, shmancy granite counters and cherry cabinets… instead it was raw and beautiful and purely about the wine (probably much like the pioneering days of Oregon winemaking when many of the producers tasted out of their garages).

I left Carlo & Julian with a bottle of 2005 Estate Tempranillo and instructions to lay it down for five years, dreaming of the dishes I could pair with it that night… paella, a big bowl of cioppino or a mouth-watering appetizer of figs and goat cheese wrapped in prosciutto.

I went to the opposite side of the quaint little town that seems to revolve around the wine industry (with more wineries per square foot than probably anywhere else, i.e. more tasting rooms than Starbucks and churches, combined!) where I found Cana’s Feast Winery, formerly Cuneo Cellar. Cana’s Feast, though practically in town, has a real country-esque feel with an expansive outdoor patio, well-tended Bocce ball courts, a relaxing view of the Coastal range and the scents of olive and lemon trees, stone pines, and Italian cypresses lingering in the air.

The pièce de résistance is Cana’s Italian Cucina, an indoor/outdoor restaurant serving a seasonally inspired Mediterranean menu. I highly recommend working this restaurant into your tasting schedule. The chef uses all seasonal and local ingredients (mostly from their Estate garden, preparing everything by hand… from bread, pastas and sausages to stocks, chutneys and jams—and it’s all ridiculously reasonably priced. If you plan to visit, dinner is served on Thursday, Friday and Saturdays and lunch on Friday, Saturday and Sundays.

The wines were rich and bold, pairing well with their hearty Italian food. I had a 2006 Bricco Pinot Noir with nice, bright red fruit, a good strong backbone and nice supple tannins and five other Bricco wines (also good), all sourced from eastern Washington and southern Oregon. Now that I think about it, I don’t think I even tasted the Canas Feast wines. The name Canas Feast refers to the biblical story of the wedding feast where Jesus turns water into wine. A point I tried to look past as I’ve never really been particularly fond of having religion poured down my throat in any capacity, especially not in the form of wine. There seems to be a bit of confusion on what to call the wines. They used to be Cuneo, then they switched to Canas Feast with a lower-priced tier called Bricco, which they are also now dropping and putting all their wines under the Canas Feast label. Did you follow that? Yes, I agree, one label sounds a lot less confusing.

Located adjacent to Canas Feast is the Carlton Winemakers Studio, so off I went. The sign on the door to the Studio said they were open and to ring the bell, which I did repeatedly, but with no answer. I was about to leave when a lovely young girl finally let me, and the other guests who were also waiting, in. One of the guests (a buyer for Stumptown Coffee) tried to bribe her with a couple of bags of beans making me slightly jealous—nobody’s ever brought me gifts in trade for wine tastings (hint, hint). She offered us a tour of the winery (piggybacking on another guests’ scheduled tour I believe) and showed us around the winery and cellar—which oddly enough featured a climbing wall. The facility is built with sustainability in mind, incorporating many recycled and reused materials and is an ingenious concept providing ten winemakers a state-of-the-art production operation to vinify and then showcase their wines.

Though a bit spendy, it’s definitely a worthwhile stop to become exposed to some of Oregon’s newest and most interesting artisanal producers. Unfortunately, my pourer seemed more interested in schmoozing two special guests and she disappeared to the outdoor patio leaving me alone. After waiting around to purchase a bottle of wine, for what seemed way too much time, I finally left empty-handed, impressed with the wines, the building and the philosophy… just wishing they had the service to match.

I parked on West Main and walked the remainder of my wine tour. Carlton’s an amazing destination like that, you don’t have the vineyards and the views, but if you’re looking to taste a lot of different Oregon limited production wineries, with 20 different tasting rooms, it’s your town. Though it’s obviously great to have such a variety of choices, I couldn’t help but be vividly reminded of the Boulder Mall Crawl from my college days at University of Colorado. Always an observer and never a participant, every Halloween, the pedestrian mall turned into a frenzy of drunks trying to visit as many bars as they could, literally crawling to the next by the end of the evening. Having that much alcohol accessible in such a short amount of time just can’t be good… be it Colorado or Carlton.

Off my soapbox and back to wine tasting at Zena’s, where surprisingly, they don’t produce any Pinot noir (yes, you heard me correct). A family-owned winery producing four wines, mostly from the Del Rio Vineyard in the Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon. Their dry Riesling, actually using local fruit from Montinore was expressive with lots of tropical fruit, a touch of apricots and citrus zing with subtle spice, nice minerality and lively acidity. I also enjoyed their Cabernet Franc’s full body and flavor profile, including dark fruit, currants, spice and toasted nuts.

Next door, at Hawkins Cellar, which just opened its doors in April of this year, I enjoyed a memorable 2007 Syrah from the Columbia Valley. At $20, it was an amazing value, and though the bottle has sadly been long finished, I keep thinking I should go back and get another. Woody was pouring that day, and a musician at heart; I could definitely see the performer in him. I enjoyed our conversation and looking at newspaper clippings of him and his 200-pound rescue Saint Bernard. Yeah, I’m a sucker for the dog.

Continue your walk down Main and stop in at Terra Vina, formerly Dalla Vina where you’ll find a variety of well-crafted wines from very select Oregon and Washington vineyards. Producing just over 1800 cases at Owen Roe, Terra Vina’s wines have won numerous awards—with low tannins (using no seeds and stems in the fermentation process) they’re easy to drink when young. The stand-out wine for me was the 2007 Terra Vina Malbec from the Columbia Valley with a deep, dark, alluring color, a base of sweet, ripe, dark fruit, with underlying flavors of cassis, cocoa, tobacco and sweet molasses. It was plush and lush with good strength and balance. Emily, who was pouring wines that day, was joking that their Malbec would make a fantastic crayon color and she should send the color into Crayola—I think she’s onto something, the color was spectacular.

Apparently, Carlton does “hospitality”. Cliff Creek Cellars was also serving Honest Chocolate’s truffles made from their wine along with some creamy Rogue blue cheese and crackers as well. Cliff Creek’s wines are all crafted by Joe Dobbes using only Estate-grown fruit from Sam’s Valley Vineyard in Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley. I was greeted (and I say that loosely because it was more like being chased away) by the tasting room mascot, a Yorkshire Terrier named Joey who was very threatening dressed in her cute, fuzzy, pink sweater.  Bethany (the tasting room manager), poured wine, while Joey contentedly lounged on a kind guest’s lap as if she was royalty. I chatted with a guy who was out with his wife celebrating his 40^th birthday with a visit to wine country. We had both tasted at seven wineries so far and I was surprised he could match my stamina. But since he wasn’t spitting, I wonder how long his birthday celebration continued. Happy 40th Matt, hope it was a great one! Of the wines at Cliff Creek, I especially enjoyed their 2004 Syrah. Its nose was like a box of chocolate covered cherries, sweet and rich… I could smell it all day long. In the mouth, it was smooth, full-bodied and tasted of blackberries and toasted almonds. Some of these wines taste so good now; when I hear they’ll only improve with age, it’s almost incomprehensible. But I bow to the expert and have my bottles lying down, as instructed… for now.

A few doors down I easily located Barking Frog. With an interesting name and frogs all around the tasting room, one just has to ask. So, what’s with the frogs? Actually, it turned out to be an interesting story: Native American legend tells that the barking frog is a symbol for prosperity and a sign to mankind that the environment is in harmony. This philosophy sits well with a winery that only purchases grapes from vineyards practicing sustainable farming and also uses the Vinoseal glass seal closure instead of cork. Winemaker and principal Ron Helbig produces his wines at August Cellars in Newberg with fruit from both Washington and Oregon. Like many of the wineries in the area, they paired their wines with truffles whose ganache was made from their own wines. A large group pre-funking between wedding ceremony and reception was joking about how no one ever takes the last piece of food. While I was contemplating this theory, heavily eyeing a single dark chocolate truffle sitting oh so lonely on the plate, the next guest who walked in quickly and eagerly snatched that last morsel of chocolaty goodness up. I guess the theory doesn’t apply to chocolate.

Just steps away is Folin Cellars who just built a brand new winery in Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley and also strategically takes advantage of Carlton’s captive audience with a tasting room on Main. Folin produces 500-1100 cases annually of Estate-grown, warmer-climate Rhone varietals and a Tempranillo. And like some of their environmentally conscious neighbors, instead of cork (or screw caps), they’re also using the Vinoseal glass seal closure. It’s kind of like a glass cork, there’s still a bit of ritual involved in presentation and opening, but it’s even better because it’s new and modern… it’s just plain cool. The wines that won my heart were a 2007 Viogner, smelling of melon, peach, citrus and white flowers. The wine was exotic with lingering flavors of tropical fruit, melon and cream. The 2008 Tempranillo Rose was like no Rose I’ve ever tasted, it was almost red in color (for those men afraid of pink wine) with surprising aromas of earth and smoke (I assume by the earth and smoke flavor that it was either aged or fermented in oak, but I honestly forgot to ask). I also enjoyed their 2006 Syrah—sweet and spicy with strong flavors of dark cherries, cola and coffee.

Seven of Hearts was my final stop of the day and after tasting so many Rogue Valley wines; it was almost oddly refreshing to taste cool climate Willamette Valley varietals again. The name Seven of Hearts holds a number of different meanings. Originally inspired by a medieval-style, Burgundian playing card winemaker/principal Byron Dooley picked up while vacationing in France, and also as a tribute to his remarkable cat Seven. The wines are classic French-style—pure, elegant and complex. I started with a 2008 Chardonnay that was crisp and citrusy, with subtle minerality and excellent structure from neutral French oak. The 2008 Chatte d’Avignon (a blend of Viognier and Roussanne) was just as Byron described, friendly, approachable and full of personality, like the cat it was named for. The Willamette Valley is making great white blends worthy of exploration. Byron’s Pinot noir’s are sourced from prized vineyard sites and his portfolio includes a few single-vineyard bottlings and a few cuvees. My favorite was the 2007 Pinot Noir The Cost Vineyard from the Eola-Amita region. This wine had a nice light color with bright red raspberries, moist earth, cracked black pepper and just a kiss of some fragrant violets. I enjoyed how Byron’s wines let the expression of the terrior show through, it’s a perfect example of how Pinot Noir tells you where it’s from, if you pay attention.

Also sharing space with the Seven of Hearts Carlton tasting room is the candy-making kitchen for Honest Chocolates. Byron’s wife Dana is the genius chocolatier who developed a line of wine tasting chocolates designed to complement Pinot noir and other favorite Pacific Northwest varietals and has since personally created truffles for many of the area tasting rooms using those wineries’ wines as the foundation. Very special, very unique—and if you ever thought wine and chocolate weren’t a match made in heaven, you obviously haven’t tried Honest Chocolates.

As I drove home along Hwy 240 after a very full day of tasting (enjoying the scenery and avoiding the Dundee traffic jam), I passed Carlo & Julian and remembered the stained-glass window, adorned with the expression “Work a day in my vineyard”. This saying seemed to be haunting me throughout the day as I was thinking about in the terms of “Walk a mile in my shoes”. I realized I’ve been exploring this very topic recently. I’ve noticed when I’ve spoken with winemakers and winery owners about my project; some of them have told me they’d prefer my job (they must realize I don’t get paid for this—in fact there’s a negative cash flow effect taking place). When I’m at work at Cooper Mountain Vineyards, I’ve had guests look at me with fluttering eyelashes, romantically asking how one goes about getting a job in a tasting room, because it would be so fun. Is it simply a case of the grass is always greener? When it comes down to it, if someone’s good at what they do, they make it look easy and their title might sound romantic, but if we could only work a day in their vineyard, we’d soon realize everyone goes through the same stress, expectation, disappointment, rejection, failures and day-to-day dull drum as anyone else. Since writing this blog post however, I’ve starting to think about that expression at greater length and see it through a different and brighter light. Perhaps the saying is an invitation to all who see: Work a day in my vineyard… and you’ll see life blossoming and flourishing. See hard work come to fruition with wine that’s like poetry in a glass. Like the poetry in Felix Madrid’s stained glass.

Still more Carlton to come (very soon). Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Tasting Wines in the Carlton Countryside

I could hear the siren song beckoning me, trying to lure me from my odyssey as I passed numerous signs for garage sales and several farmers markets along the way to tour the Carlton wineries. Where I once went seeking priceless treasures of cheap, high quality children’s toys and farm-fresh produce for my family, I now find myself spending weekends seeking out treasures of a different sort.

Sticking to my guns and keeping my foot on the accelerator, I eventually arrived at my destination, Anne Amie Vineyards. I drove past the vineyards, poised and ready for picking, and up to the French-style chateaux at Anne Amie, high atop the hill. Anne Amie’s tasting room reflects the classic Old-World style, with gilded mirrors, high ceilings and lots of tapestries—elegant if not just a bit stuffy. Enjoy a picnic on the patio overlooking the beautiful grounds, vineyards and scenic Willamette Valley below.

I was excited to taste at Anne Amie because another of my former Ponzi colleagues and current good friend Thomas Houseman is Anne Amie’s Director of Winemaking (so I know first hand about both his talent and his passion). Thomas’s passion may be for Pinot Noir, but that boy can work magic with the whites too. I tried a heavenly Riesling, which brought thoughts of Thai food and Lobster Thermador to my brain with subsequent pangs of hunger to my belly; two Pinot Gris’, equally refreshing with balanced fruit, spice and minerality; and a delightful Pinot Noir Rose called Cuvee A Midnight Saignee. I think my favorite by far was the 2008 Cuvee A Muller Thurgau, though it’s not the most popular or common white wine, it could be! Thomas’ Muller Thurgau was like a perfectly crisp green apple with additional flavors of Meyer lemon, melon and aromatics of dried flowers. This wine would be simply divine with a bowl of fresh steamer clams and would really knock your socks off with some spicy Mexican pork. Obviously an easy-sipper in the summer, but as cooler weather comes on and I seek out wines that warm the body and soul, it’s good to keep these affordable, easy-pairing and food-friendly whites top of mind.

Thomas Houseman joined Anne Amie in 2007 and quickly recruited former colleague and Vineyard Manager Jason Tosch (yes, another graduate of Ponzi University) to oversee winegrowing at Anne Amie. The two are a force to be reckoned with and have brought Anne Amie’s wine program to new heights. I had the good fortune of tasting the 2007 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Thomas’ first vintage of Pinot Noir with Anne Amie) and found it very approachable, with ripe flavors of black cherries, blackberries and chocolate mingling happily with leather, violets and sweet maple. I haven’t been too crazy about the 2007 vintage till lately, but with wines like these quickly changing my mind, I’m realizing with a little more time in the bottle, the 2007’s are developing quite a distinctive personality.

With the 2009 Harvest in full play, I knew Thomas would practically be living at the winery so I asked the tasting room associate to see if he would see me. She took my card and said she would check but that he was really busy and probably knee-deep in a tank somewhere. I watched him breezing in and out of the kitchen; lithe and graceful, just like his wines, and when he finally had a moment to catch his breath, he took mine away with a big, hearty, lift-me-off-the-floor kind of hug. My timing impeccable, he graciously invited me to join the Harvest crew for lunch of food straight from the winery’s garden at picnic tables nested snugly in a blanket of grapevines. I sat down with Thomas, Jason and the rest of the bunch, but I’ve seen how hungry those Harvest workers get and I wouldn’t have dreamed of taking food off their precious plates. Speaking of food… I do have to mention how fun it was catching up with my old hungry and sexy Australian friend Todd Harvey. For some crazy reason, Todd has returned to Oregon to be a part of Thomas’ Harvest crew year after year (first meeting at… drum roll please… Ponzi Vineyards!). And though he’s certainly capable of eating everything on the table, he brings plenty to the table as well, cheers mate!

I left Anne Amie feeling full and content in my soul after a visit with friends and some great wines (stomach still rumbling though) and went on deeper into the countryside to tour the remaining outlying wineries of Carlton—starting with Lemelson Vineyards (who just opened their brand new tasting room 4^th of July weekend). Combining traditional methods with current technology, the cedar-sided winery is a modern marvel of aesthetics and function. Built with sustainability in mind, every detail was considered… right down to the white oak floors harvested from trees on the estate property and milled locally. Walk in past the outdoor patio with full fireplace and get a bulls-eye view of the Crush Pad. Luckily, I got to observe some Harvest activity and better yet, Lemelson's highly acclaimed, one-of-a-kind, fully mobile sorting platform… in action! The crew was carefully selecting ripe clusters, which then dropped to fill temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermentation tanks located on the level below. The barrel room (which I did not see) is located on the lowest level of the gravity-flow winery, fully underground and complete with radiant heated and cooled concrete floors for optimum temperature control. I should probably mention, the photo of two I’ve captured here in full Harvest mode joked about their attire— specifically his, saying he looked like Chris Farley in Saturday Night Live’s “Fat Man Little Coat” skit. Okay, I can see the resemblance!

Back to the business at hand, and my main purpose. Wine tasting was taking place in the foyer, as the tasting room was actually closed to guests (apparently it also doubles as the Harvest kitchen and dining room and Harvest always takes precedent at a winery… as it should). I did peak in though, and saw it easily makes a lovely setting for sipping; large with vineyard views framed in oversized windows flanking a cozy wood-burning stove.

I liked Lemelson’s 2007 Dry Riesling, and though the label said “dry”, there was clearly a touch of residual sugar that softened the austerity but also perhaps masked that traditional diesel smell you get off a Riesling. I got more excited when Pamela, who was pouring wines that day and clearly up on her technical information, allowed me to taste a 2006 Chardonnay she happened to have open. Aged in 40% new French oak, the wine had a nice weight in the mouth, without being overly creamy and pleasing notes of lemon-lime, honeysuckle and pear (did I buy a bottle, what do you think?). There was a good selection of ’06 and ’07 vintage Pinot noirs; both single vineyard and cuvees. The highlights for me were the 2007 Meyer Vineyard Pinot Noir, an unusually complex wine, rich with essences of red cherries, strawberries, black tea, warm, white pepper and violets; and the 2006 Jerome Reserve Pinot Noir. A blend of their three vineyard sites with a lush, earthy and smoky nose and full, round mouth of black fruit, dark chocolate, minerals and spice, this wine is exotic and sensual and should be savored over a long evening as it continues to develop in the glass (a perfect candidate for a decanter). Lemelson’s commitment to organics and sustainability (from vineyard to winery) made quite an impact on me and I wish them continued growth and success.

With Laurel Ridge Winery now in my sightline, I zipped past old barns, weathered silos and fertile farmland. After parking, I was greeting and led directly to the door by the perfect little doorman, a very friendly resident pooch named Keizer. The tasting room displayed the cleverest use of recycled wine materials I’d ever seen. Woodworker and Grant High School teacher Dan Brown ingeniously crafted a unique canopy for over the bar made completely out of used barrel staves with lights that dangle through the bungholes. Aside from its beauty, the barrel stave canopy provided a wonderful and surprising sense of intimacy in the bar area amidst the very large tasting room. The front of the bar was also its own work of art, decorated with vintage Champagne riddling racks (used in wine cellars for aging Champagne bottles).

Distracted by the adorable dog who had taken up residence on my feet, I disengaged my hand from his fur long enough to taste the wines. Laurel Ridge is one of a handful of Oregon wineries that produces sparkling wines in the classic French Methode Champenoise. Susan, the winery’s president, poured me a 1992 Brut Grand; a harmonious blend of Pinot noir and Pinot blanc with almost no residual sugar which made me think of crab cakes, fried oysters and mushrooms in cream sauce on toast. I tasted some good Pinots and then was tickled by a 2007 Tempranillo with bold, dramatic flavors of berries, currants and cinnamon that was just screaming to be drank along side a dish of Moroccan Lamb Tagine over cous cous.

Food obviously weighing heavily on my mind, I decided to revolt against my hunger and headed to Lenne where I found winemaker and proprietor Steve Lutz personally pouring his wines. There’s really nothing better than getting to taste with the winemaker, you get a greater understanding of the wine—its history, by which I mean what exactly those grapes have gone through on their journey from vine to glass. Drive up the steep, narrow dirt road to the tasting room at Lenne and you feel like you’re driving to a little old Tuscan villa, with field stone walls the color of Piedmonte.

In addition to Lenne wines, Steve also pours some of his friend’s wines as well. That day, I got to enjoy a 2007 Viogner from Fausse Piste, which was almost golden in color with pretty aromas of orange blossom and apricots and a nice full body as well as a 2008 Sineann Old Vine Zinfandel (off 100 year-old vines) and a 2007 Owen Roe Cabernet Franc with lots of Spanish pepper on the nose. Steve tasted me through three of his 2007 Pinots, each of which leaned towards a light and delicate style and each of which seemed to contain the same red cherry, coffee and spice (in varying combinations and intensities). They all had good ripeness, good acidity and an indicative terrior (French word meaning earth referring to specific flavors which identify a sense of place), making it very difficult to decide what to purchase. What to serve it with, an easy decision… my most favorite blackened seared salmon. Again, I’m a visual gal and a sucker for a good label. Steve’s label kindly pays tribute to his father-in-law Lenny and features his profile prominently. In a cunning and punning sort of way, one of the Pinots is called Le Nez (French for the nose), and displays and even larger silhouette of Lenny’s very un-petite nose. Lenne is open Thursday through Sunday, and Steve says anytime the gate is open, feel free to stop on by.

With WillaKenzie practically across the street, it was easy to blow off my insatiable appetite knowing it would be my last stop of the day and suck up one more tasting (so to speak). Upstairs, I found the grand tasting room with lofty vaulted wood ceilings, bistro-style seating and a magnificent antique French bar inlaid with mother-of-pearl. In a strange twist-of-fate, I was being served by Sherry, Hospitality Manager, who didn’t really feel all that hospitable (maybe it was just a bad day). In fact, I was starting to feel slightly uncomfortable until her associate, Erik swooped and and like a superhero behind the bar, saved the day with his playful nature and great sense of humor. One of the guys from the group standing next to me at the bar started joking about how Erik looked a bit too much like Erik Estrada (talking about a funny commercial with Estrada sunglasses), which finally seemed to break the ice where Erik responded by swiftly removing the guest’s glass, refusing him service for making such a bad and offensive joke. It was obvious Erik had heard this reference before… he might have been just a bit too sensitive about it. He returned the glass to the guest, who as it turns out was also named Eric and was very brave and tried to stand his ground, but didn’t really have a leg to stand on teasing someone else, considering he was wearing a Wonder Woman t-shirt!

Of the wines, I tasted a 2008 Pinot Blanc, a classic 2007 Pinot Gris, and four vineyard-select 2006 Pinot Noirs that all had a sweetness which hit your lips immediately, but that was where the similarities ended. The Pierre Leon suggested blackberries and plum, it was complex, with great structure but its long finish didn’t quite sit right with me at that particular space and time. Wine is really so personal, it could have very well just been me (I think it was that cured meat thing again). The Kiana, in contrast, was full of juicy red fruit and blueberries with a fluttering of violets and white pepper. The Emery, probably my favorite, had a dark ruby color, deep black cherry flavor with hints of anise and fig, while the Terres Basses, also rich with red fruit, tasted of pomegranates, Bing cherries, roses, black licorice on a bed of fertile earth. After tasting through the Pinot noirs, I couldn’t get that first Pinot Blanc out of my mind. The nose and palate both exploded with pear, melon, kefir lime and honey. When I took a sip of this wine, I was immediately reminded of a memorable wine dinner I did with Ponzi Vineyards at Genoa Restaurant where the chef paired Ponzi’s Pinot blanc with a dish called Pasta al Melone. This was one of those electrifying food pairings where I felt like I was in some sort of food heaven… the wine brought out the richness and sweetness in the pasta dish and the food enhanced the fruit flavors and acidity in the wine. I begged the chef for the recipe and have since made this easy dish several times. I picked up a beautiful Tuscan cantaloupe today and look forward to recreating that food pairing with WillaKenzie’s 2008 Pinot Blanc.

Obviously hungry, I set off for home (my refrigerator) with my daily lesson rumbling loudly at me. The best and simplest way to keep your focus on the wine, the tasting room and the experience instead of on your next bite: Make sure you’ve eaten a satisfying and well-rounded meal before you set out on any wine tasting adventure—wine touring and tasting is hard work.

Next up on the Carlton wine tour: we’re hitting downtown! Until we sip again…

Cheers!