Another Oregon Winery Steps into the Spotlight

Come closer. I have a secret I'd like to whisper in your ear. There's a new winery in town and I know you want to know all the juicy details before everyone else does.

Since I’m always on the lookout for new wines and wineries to share with you, when I heard about the upcoming Grand Opening of the Hyland Estates tasting room in Dundee this weekend, I knew you’d want me to get and spill the latest dirt.

So, digging in deep, I visited the tasting room a couple days shy of their big debut and met with the winery's Tasting Room Manager Eric Baldwin, who shared with me all he knew about the Hyland Estates story and let me preview the wines.

Purchased in 2007, Hyland Estates is owned by the NW Wine Company (i.e. Laurent Montalieu and Danielle Andrus -Montalieu of Solena Estate) and though the 200-plus acres have been supplying preium grapes to many of Oregon's most prestigious wineries since 1971, the Estate is just releasing its inaugural bottlings and providing a stunning venue in which to preview them.

The swanky tasting room is located in the original and remodeled residence on the grounds of the NW Wine Company. From the outside it looks like a modest home, but inside, in complete opposition, it's all sleek, elegant surfaces with bold, vivid art and a trendy (chichi?), upscale feel.

Producing just over 500 cases a year, Hyland Estates wines are boutique wines, but with 200-plus acres of vines at their fingertips, the winery is poised to accommodate demand. “Always being a vintage away of having more production is a nice position to be in”, says Baldwin. Though the vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Muller Thurgau, they don’t make a Chardonnay or Muller Thurgau, preferring to focus on very limited production of Pinot Noir, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. 

The vineyard is situated in the McMinnville AVA on ashy and volcanic Jory and Nekia soils. The lovely 2010 Hyland Estates Pinot Noir ($35) showed aromas and flavors indicative of the region, with an abundance of dried cranberries and juicy, dark plums as well as pleasant notes of vanilla cola, moist earth, lingering smoke and roses.

Though not available for tasting on my visit (but hopefully in time for the Grand Opening, and definitely by Thanksgiving weekend), the winery is scheduled to release two additional higher end Pinot noirs; one is a clonal selection called Hyland Estates Coury Clone ($60) and the other, the Hyland Estates Founders Selection ($100), was crafted from just one chosen barrel and then aged for a full two years (only 28 cases of this wine was produced).

Providing an alternative to Pinot gris, the winery is also featuring their bone-dry 2010 Hyland Estate Gewurztraminer ($25), bright aromas of white grapefruit, pear and orange blossoms. The 2009 Hyland Estates Riesling ($25) was very untraditional as far as Riesling goes, and simple, if not flat, with green apple and citrus.

Visit the tasting room for their Grand Opening celebration November 19^th and 20^th where the wines will be presented alongside tasty morsels. If you can't make it for that weekend, stop by the next time you're out and about in Wine Country; you'll be glad you did.

Open daily from 11-5
20980 NE Niederberger Road, Dundee OR
Join them on Facebook or call them directly at (503) 554-4200

Speaking of being out and about in Wine Country, next time you are, be sure to include a stop at the Red Hills Market in Dundee (which is really so much more than just a market); it's seriously worth making a special drive from Portland just to come here. I discovered their holy-cow-good roast beef sandwiches worth road tripping for (and quite possibly even considering for a last meal) and though it's tempting to try and keep that goodness all for myself, I loved it so much, I want to scream from the rooftops about how great this sandwich was.

Wander around while you wait for your food and you'll find local charcuterie and cheeses, house-made baked goods, locally made products, books, home decor, and 100-plus local wines and craft beers you can enjoy on-premise or to-go. All their craft sandwiches and pizzas are wood-fired and come served right in the roasting pan for a rustic, warm, homey feel. There's even cocktails, locally roasted coffee and fresh nosegays for whatever pick-me-up you so desire.

Consider the Wine Taster's Survival Box, which contains a selection of cured meats, cheeses, olives,  chocolate, a fresh baguette and 2 waters, add a view overlooking the Valley or a vineyard and tell me it doesn't result in complete and utter satiation. Peruse the Red Hills Market menu on their website, then be the hero and avoid the lunch rush by calling ahead with your order, (971) 832-8414.

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One a side note, when Eric poured the Pinot Noir, one of the bottles was clearly corked, meaning it was flawed and smelled fowl, being adversely affected by the presence of TCA in it. I remember reading a tweet from my definitively Portlandian friend Jenny Moshbacher (@secretcrumpet on Twitter), who’s also a writer for the fabulous and informative wineblog NW Wine Anthem, about how putting saran wrap in a TCA-tainted bottle cured the problem right up. I mentioned this to Eric and setting off on an epic experiment, he went and procured a piece of saran wrap, which he then crumbled into a ball, stuffed into the neck of the bottle, jiggled down into the wine and stuffed the cork back on top. We went about our chat and when we were wrapping things up, we decided to check on the “experiment”. What was once a completely unpalatable bottle of wine, was somehow transformed into one smelling of fruit and spice instead of mold. Magic? Seemingly.

Apparently, according to an article in the New York Times from Andrew Waterhouse, a professor of Wine Chemistry at UC Davis who exposes the secrets of the magic trick, the reason it works is that the culprit molecule in infected corks (2,4,6-trichloroanisole) is chemically similar to polyethylene and actually binds to the plastic.

Thank you Jenny for your superior wine-salving skills and for sharing your super-sleuthy and MacGyver-like wine knowledge with those of us smart enough to follow you.

A Riesling Revival in Oregon

Riesling ought to think about changing its name to a symbol as the varietal’s probably had more comebacks than Prince himself. With its most recent resurgence, and something of a cult-following in recent years, there’s a whole collective of serious consumers who actually seek out the aged petrol qualities Riesling develops. And as more and more people discover the Rhine wine’s secrets... (Click here to read the full story on Cork'd)

Wines For Mad Men

Tonight's the night Mad Men fans everywhere have been waiting for. The incomparable series highlights cigarette smoking, drinking, cigarette smoking, chauvinism, cigarette smoking, cigarette smoking, drinking, cigarette smoking, sexism, cigarette smoking, feminism, cigarette smoking, adultery, cigarette smoking, swanky 60’s attire with more cigarette smoking and cleverly revolves around the conflicted world of the ridiculously sexy, yet very mysterious Don Draper (notorious ad and ladies man). In honor of skinny ties and creativity, as well as tonight’s season premier of one of the most original shows on TV depicting American society and culture of the 1960s, I’d like to recommend a wine to personify each of the dynamic Mad Men characters…

Don Draper
Don Draper is the aloof, elusive, enigmatic Creative Director and Partner at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce ad agency. Don’s a complicated and secretive man, though his secrets are starting to be revealed. The man is the master of image, adultery and is always perfectly dressed for every occasion. Though Don’s primarily an “Old Fashioned” kind of guy, as a wine, he’s definitely a Pinot Noir… elegant, difficult and challenging, but worth the extra effort.

Betty Draper
Betty is officially Don’s wife though they’re now separated after she discovered her husband’s infidelity and went on to have an affair of her own. She's a former model, exceedingly concerned with appearances and rather proud of her beauty. Betty’s also always impeccably dressed for every occasion, and if she’s anything, she’s a perfectly bubbly Champagne.

Roger Sterling
Roger Sterling is a Partner in the Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce Ad Agency. He smokes and drinks, even though he had two heart attacks—a man clearly in denial. He lives an excessive lifestyle, but is affectionate, indulgent and immature. He’s very into image and “looking the part.” His name is on the building, yet it's unclear what he really does… other than harass the young secretaries. He's lush (I mean, a lush) and often at his best when blended with other wines to produce something even better than when just on his own (i.e. the agency). If Roger where a wine, he’d be a Syrah.

Pete Campbell
Pete Campbell is smart, persistant and determined; he works in Account Management at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce. Pete’s many things, but mainly he’s also a blackmailer with a plan that backfired. Though I truly like him, I know he’s self centered and furative. No secrets… He makes light of things but is also disciplined, insecure, sneaky, highly impulsive and immature. Pete’s a Beaujoulais if he’s anything.

Joan Harris
Joan Harris is the seductive, cunning and manipulative Office Manager at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce. She’s very Marilyn Monroe-esque— totally rocking the curves. Joan’s a smooth and silky, seductive Merlot—pretty, fleshy, soft and sensual though complex and easy (to drink) yet—often passed over for something more complex.

Peggy Olson
Peggy’s formerly Don Draper’s ambitious secretary but he promoted her after recognizing her potential and she’s now a Copywriter at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce. She's a bit frumpy—though admittedly working on it—and also perhaps a bit naïve. She’s a good girl running a tight ship, but she’s conflicted, she’s a Riesling… is she dry or is she sweet?

The time has finally arrived! Put on your favorite pencil skirt and twinset and raise your best vintage stemware to Don and to tonight’s Mad Men premiere. Until we sip a again…

Cheers!

A Couple of Bloggers Unite at Owen Roe

I don't typically make a habit of accepting invitations from strange men, but when fellow blogger Josh Chang of PDXploration asked me to meet him for a private tasting of Owen Roe wines, I knew it was one invitation not to be overlooked. Not only was I intrigued to learn about a fellow Portland blogger who focuses on all the undiscovered and delicious things around Portland, I was also dying to pick his brain for the inside scoop on where to dine. The fact that I'd actually been meaning to visit Owen Roe and would be able to cross this tasting room off my list was just the icing on the cake.

I’d heard Owen Roe’s winery has no sign and is not-easy-to-locate. When given directions to their facility, I was instructed to look for the driveway flanked by English ivy (thanks portlandoregonwine), really? Stealth locale discovered (are they trying to keep people away?), I joined my buddy Josh and his visiting family for a private tasting of Owen Roe’s wines. Owen Roe sources the fruit for their wines from premium vineyards sites in Washington and Oregon and operate a production facility in Washington as well. In addition to the Owen Roe label, they also produce Sharecroppers, O’Rielly’s and Corvett A.

To say I was immediately impressed with the 2008 DuBrul Riesling ($21) would be an understatement—blown away might have been a more accurate description. I’m not typically a huge Riesling fan, but the wine was slightly worshipable—viscous, almost honey-like in color and sweet on the nose, presenting apricots and candied almonds. The minerality and brilliant acidity played well against the hint of residual sugar, and though there is .4% RS, the wine was far more dry than it was sweet. The fruit for this luscious bottling came from a small block of grapes in one of the oldest vineyards in Washington’s Yakima Valley.

Inquiring about the winery’s intriguing black and white labels was a bit like opening up Pandora’s Box. Rose told us story after story of Owen Roe O’Rielly (anscestor of founder and winemaker David O’Reilly), a 17th century Irish patriot who battled all his life with rival Oliver Cromwell. The Riesling’s hand-drawn label features an original woodcut of Clough Oughter Castle where Owen Roe eventually died. Each wine and each label depicts a different chapter in the Owen Roe saga, utilizing the back label to convey the story.

One of the most memorable and impressive of these tales (though I haven’t a clue if the wine is as memorable and might have even given up my left hand to try it) was the story behind Sinister Hand (a blend of Rhone varietals from vineyards in Washington State) whose label prominently features a severed bloody hand. Legend has it, during a boat race across a lake between the O’Rielly’s and the O’Neills, whomever touched land first would be awarded the land as a prize. Land being so valuable, when the O’Rielly’s were losing, one of the crew cut his own hand off and threw it onto land to claim their prize. Rose retold the story with such grim reality, it felt almost like a Monte Python movie, “It was just the left hand… no big deal,” she said sinisterly.

The Owen Roe Kilmore 2008 Pinot Noir was thin and elegant with mouthwatering acidity and earthy components of soil, mushrooms and leather. The mouth opened up to reveal dark, black cherries, blackberries, coffee and a hint of floral perfume that was all but beguiling. Whereas the 2007 Cabernet Franc Mystica Rosa was a bit too vegetal for my taste, with bitter tastes of green pepper that stole the show (and not in a good way), the 2006 DuBrul Cabernet on the other hand, was, in a word, fabulous. Rich and complex flavors of black fruit and lingering spice fill your mouth, laying across your tongue like the finest silk sheet… purely luxurious, especially at $72 a bottle.

Owen Roe also makes a late-harvest Semillon called “The Parting Glass.” The 2007, tropical and floral on the nose, tasted of pineapple, figs, vanilla and toasted caramel… a lovely finish to a great tasting. The Parting Glass is a tribute to winemaker David O’Rielly’s father and the bottle features a popular Irish toast used both to mark the end of a gathering and to honor those who have died: “But since it falls unto my lot that I should go and you should not, I’ll gently rise and softly call, good night and joy be with you all.” Until we sip again…


Cheers!

Anything But Pinot Gris - Oregon Whites For Summer Sipping

Now that summer may finally be here, the time for enjoying white wines with everything has finally arrived. So, in the spirit of the season, I've taken a closer look at some Oregon whites perfect for warm weather and lighter summer fare. Read about it on Cork'd.

If I'm Pinot Noir, What Wine Are You?

“So, I was wondering, what Pinot Noir am I?” recently asked a friend. I told him first and foremost, he couldn’t possibly be Pinot Noir, because I am. But if you know anything about me by now, you know this conversation got the rusty old wheels turning. So, if I’m Pinot Noir (click here to see Pinot Noir’s qualities from my last post), what varietal of wine are you?

Do you have a knack for levity and tendency to lighten the moment with your witty presence? Why you must be Chardonnay!

Perhaps you’re Cabernet Franc… strong, masculine and most likely smelling like a combination of an old fogies’ stogie, moss and a leather armchair.

Sangiovese, you little Earth mama you. Expect to see this lass laden down with a rustic basket full of sun-ripened fruit and savory spices. She’s a bit hippy-like and often smells of campfire. Sometimes people call her crunchy, savory, or even acidic.

Riesling, you could be named Sybil, Eve (or Gewurztraminer for that matter), there are so many facets to you. One minute you’re sweet as honey and the next, you’re bone dry… no one will ever figure you out (but that won’t stop them from trying). You’re genuine, expressive, full of lively personality and you play well with food (wink, wink).

Oh yes, you have a reputation Pinot Grigio, but people just don’t know the real you. They misjudge you—think you lack character and backbone. Don’t worry my sweet; there are many who see your inner beauty.

If you see yourself as sharp, with an etched profile and would categorize yourself as “green”… you might be Sauvignon Blanc. If you enjoy casual hikes in the stone-filled, countryside or through tall, warm grasses while chewing on sprigs of herbs… you just might be Sauvignon Blanc.

Ever been called a wolf in sheep's clothing? Well, that would mean you’re Zinfandel. You look simple, but most of time, you’re just downright hot.

You’re easy-going, sometimes a bit soft but an all-around nice person. You may have been a bit of a wallflower growing up. When your mom described you, it was always how you were not like someone else (“Oh that Merlot, she’s definitely no Pinot or Syrah.”).

Speaking of Syrah: Syrahs are excellent muti-taskers; they work hard to show how diverse they can be. A bit like liquid incense… they’re exotic, heady and anything but one-dimensional. They love Autumn with its dried leaves and fruits and live for stews, slow-simmered braised meats and long walks in the rain.

People wouldn’t know it to look at you, but you really pack a punch. Yes, you may look like a poodle, but you’re all boxer. You have a wicked streak and sometimes come across to others as bitter… but you’re getting better with age. Your name is Nebiolo.

Viognier, with your Botticelli-like figure… you’re pure hedonism, lying there in pools of musk and honey, decadently feeding your lovers overly ripe apricots, guava, mango and passion fruit all day.

Oh, Muscat, you’re just a mimbo (male bimbo). You have a maturity about you but take pleasure in seducing all the old ladies with your predictably sweet perfumes.

Ahhhhhh, then there’s Cabernet Sauvignon—powerful, structured and intelligent, yet opulent, sensual and downright provocative—worth holding on to. You and your mysterious aura—with your mischievously spicy side—if only I could really get to know you. You’re utterly luscious and possess a profoundly captivating persona—mmmmmm, intoxicating. Oh baby, where have you been all my life?

Or maybe you’re just more of a mutt after all. A mixture of many different varietals… a blend, a cuvee, like Bordeaux. You’re classic, sophisticated and savvy, yet fun and always full of surprises.

I’ve taken the liberty of exploring a few wine personality types, but with an alphabet full of varieties, I could go on forever (I’ll spare you). If you haven’t identified with one of these, tell me what I’ve missed and which wine you are. In the end, take to heart the real beauty lies in attraction. Just like people, every once in a while you meet a wine so appealing and so mind-boggling, it quite possible changes your life forever. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Get Off Your Phone Before You Miss Oregon's Wine Country!

Call me Scrooge; I’ve just never been much of a holiday girl (my birthday’s another story, now that’s a reason to break out the bubbly!). Nativity scenes, glutinous feasts and the thoughtless wasted energy on lights, trees, useless gifts and packaging just tugs at my heartstrings in a not-so-sentimental way. But I guess it’s officially November—wineries have begun winter hours, tasting room associates have already begun their “Pinot Pairs Perfect with Turkey” preach and I’ve resigned myself to the fact that dreadful, I mean cheerful, Christmas music and festive decorations lie just around the corner. But yes, it is true Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir Roses are the perfect complement to holiday meals—they’re light and pair well with a variety of foods, especially turkey.

I chose to explore the town of Amity this week (Amity means “The City of Friendship” and you will undoubtedly feel welcomed wherever you go in this small town) and made Kristen Hill Winery my first stop. Impossible not to notice the 100+-year-old, non-native Camperdown Elm tree which looked kind of like an umbrella but more like something out of an Alice in Wonderland tale. The friendly family-owned vineyard welcomes you to “Weinstube Aberg”, which is German for the Aberg Wine Room and was originally built as a second guesthouse.

Winemaker Eric Aberg and his wife Linda lived in Germany; traveled Europe and developed a deep passion for wine. They started Kristen Hill in 1985 with only three acres and now have over 24 acres planted to vine. The winery is named for one of the four daughters, who with a wicked twist of fate, is the only daughter who doesn’t actually drink wine. Kristen Hill specializes in a wine called Fizzie Lizzie; which was a sparkling blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay with a splash of cherry for color and sweetness. Linda described it as “A party in every bottle!” I concur!

I took the party to Amity Vineyards next, located within the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, due east of Salem. Founded in 1974 by one of Oregon’s early wine pioneers, Myron Redford. Amity has won numerous accolades and in 1991 produced Oregon ‘s first sulfite-free wine. With long, commanding views of the Oregon Coastal Range, Amity Vineyards had a laid-back feeling offering a comfortable picnic area and casual tasting room.

The tasting room’s bartop was like a time capsule featuring a collection of the winery’s old labels under glass with Tasting Room Manager Jo Powell behind the bar pouring wine. She poured a fantastic and perfectly balanced 2007 Dry Gewürztraminer with aromatics of lime, pear and cardamom and some minerals that lent for a hint of texture in my mouth. Amity Vineyards is one of the few producers of Gamay noir, and it was interesting to taste a cousin of my favorite varietal Pinot noir, of which there were several. The 2007 Sunnyside Vineyard Pinot Noir unfolded like a book—revealing bright red raspberry and pomegranate at the beginning, cherries and vanilla in the middle and finishing strong and memorable with some lovely floral notes and baking spice. We finished the tasting off with their 2007 Wedding Dance Riesling, which was about as sweet as the name implies. With 4.5% residual sugar, the wine still showed citrus zest, honeysuckle and the classic petroleum aromas of aged Riesling.

On my way out, I visited with Mae Mae the dog and then took my exit to visit some of the downtown wineries.

Be careful not to blink or you might miss downtown Amity and you certainly wouldn’t want to miss Coelho Winery. Founded in 2004 by Dave and Deolinda Coelho, both of Portuguese decent, the wines reflect both the region and their heritage. Their 30-acres of vineyards are located 3.5 miles from their winery’s facility that is housed in a remodeled 1930’s building utilizing many restored original timbers giving architectural appeal. Saddle up to the large bar supported by wine barrels or relax on the sofas by the fire and soak in the warm country comfort.

Teresa Wright, Wine Server and Outside Sales Associate set out a tasting map for each flight with all the wines in separate glasses, instead of using the same glass for tasting one wine after the other. Multiple glasses can be complicated on a busy tasting room’s bar, but it was a nice touch and a great way to taste different vintages side-by-side and have the option of revisiting certain wines. A homey touch, Teresa brought out a plate of fresh bread and dried Jack cheese from Rubiano in California. Called “Pour man’s Parmesan”, the story goes that during the war, this cheese was made for the Italians who couldn’t get their imported Parmesano Regianno. It tasted plenty rich to me.

Teresa kept referring to the wines as “him or guy”, as in “I just love him” or “this little guy….” At first it really threw me, I wasn’t quite sure what she was talking about (for some reason the Seinfeld episode where Elaine starts up a conversation with Jimmy who refers to himself in the third person and she thinks he’s talking about someone else comes to mind—you should probably know, unfortunately, I’m able to boil all life’s moments down to either Seinfeld or Simpson episodes). A little slow on the uptake sometimes, the light bulb finally lit and then I just went with it, letting Teresa show me a different side to the wines. To me wine has always been very feminine (except Cab Franc which is too smoky and leathery to ever be feminine). Like boats or cars and certainly the fruit-providing plants—they’re just primarily female. But I think Teresa may have it all figured out, because truth be known, I guess I wouldn’t mind being surrounded all day by a bunch of sexy men known by sexy Portuguese names either.

Coelho means rabbit in their owner’s native Portuguese tongue, which they have cleverly and abstractly depicted in their logo. The wines have all been given Portuguese names such as Renovacao (Renewal), Apreciacao (Appreciation) and appropriately, Paciencia (Patience) for the fickle Pinot noirs. With Winemaker Brian Marcy at the helm, the wines are all very expressive of both the terrior and his style. I particularly enjoyed the 2007 Apreciacao Chardonnay which was fragrant with Meyer lemon, white peach and white flowers, layered with the taste and feel of custard with subtle accents of nuts and vanilla. The wine was perky, crisp and clean making my mind spin with thoughts of magical food pairings (did someone say crab cakes?). They had a lovely estate Pinot Noir Rose that would indeed be marvelous for Thanksgiving, especially early in the day, prior to the big meal. And three vintages of Paciencia Pinot Noir to savor, of which the 2007 was my favorite (I’m finding this vintage though labeled by critics as a poor vintage, to be more true to the varietal—lighter and elegant as opposed to the big fruity wines of 2006), with red cherry, pomegranate and cola notes, the wine was elegant with a finish of dry earth and spice. In the Portuguese fashion, of course Coelho makes Ports, and they had a 2006 “port style” dessert wine made from the Marechale Foch grape which had a gorgeous, rich, deep dark plum color and would be absolutely decadent with a variety of blue cheeses, dark chocolates and roasted nuts for dessert. I left Coelho, but not without first getting a tip on a port-reduction sauce from Teresa I which can’t wait to make, thanks Teresa!

Practically across the street, but with some current construction going on, somehow not so easy to find is Mia Sonatina. In need of some better signage, Mia Sonatina had a very casual tasting room area set up in the winery. Sales and Marketing Manager Jo Spencer claims they have something for everyone who walks in the door, and I believe she may be right. Mia Sonatina strives to make affordable wine that is region-specific but different than others because of yeast selection, varietal or blending techniques. The Pinot Noir of unknown vintage (only because I took poor notes) was still pretty tight with firm tannins, but I picked up a lot of black fruit and smoky character. The Cabernet Franc was actually my favorite, with black cherry, roasted coffee beans and a peppery finish that made it an easy food pairing – think beef (mmmmmmm, maybe with Teresa’s port reduction sauce).

Jo gave me a quick tour of the winery, introducing me to the winemaker, her husband Vern Spencer, and then treated me to a barrel tasting of Gewürztraminer that tasted like rich, thick and yummy apple/pear cider.

Though these wineries are presented in a logical order, as if I was following an organized tour, I must confess I really didn’t visit them that way. You see, when I was driving to Amity, I was trying to multi-task, talking to my mom on the phone at the same time. After blowing past the first two wineries on my scheduled tour, I actually began my tasting downtown and went backwards to the other two. So, my lesson for the day, and probably pretty obvious, is get off the damn phone! Especially while driving but definitely when touring wine country. Aside from the obvious distraction from the road and the amazing scenic beauty, cell phone calls are a bad idea when traveling in wine country, Oregon or elsewhere. It may not only derail you from your intended destination, you will probably be cut off due to a bad connection anyway. So just wait until your back in the city, sit back and enjoy the country’s lack of technology… after all, how many chances do you have to escape and just enjoy it all? Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Life's Lessons… in a Bottle of Wine

I roamed the countryside yet again, blazing my own wine trail as I taste across Oregon. On an early fall afternoon, I visited Penner-Ash Wine Cellars, driving past their vineyards, already showing the telltale signs of surrendering to the winter. It’s probably one of my favorite times in the vineyard—the fruit has all been harvested, the nights are getting cooler (especially at higher elevations) and the plants inherently know it’s time to shut down; turning all shades of yellow, orange, red and brown before they drop their leaves and become bare till the following spring. The process by which the vines do this is astounding. Different parts of the vineyard begin to change colors at different times, and almost like a psychedelic watercolor, the hues swirl together yet at the same time are so distinctively separate, it almost defies nature. I felt like this kalaidascope of color was nature’s personal gift to me that day.

Penner-Ash is in an 80-acre estate ideally perched high above the Chehalem Valley revealing striking views of the estate as well as Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. In addition to the expansive outdoor panoramas, Penner-Ash brings the view indoors with sizable windows that put the wine cellar on display. The day I was there, I saw Lynn Penner-Ash out on the Crush Pad, which was being swarmed by stubborn yellow-jackets, and at least two dozen vats of grapes fermenting.

The stunning tasting room with slate mosaic floor and tasteful art for purchase was quiet and Patty was giving me one-on-one service until, as if all it once, it was suddenly full and I had to share her with the other guests. She gracefully handled the crowd, whom we had guessed to be the “after-church crowd”, with a smile. Part of the horde actually turned out to be a rambunctious group visiting from out of state, converging on Wine Country, Oregon to celebrate their 60th birthdays, happy birthday friends!

The wines were luxurious in both taste and price. Penner-Ash makes one Estate Pinot Noir and purchases the remainder of the fruit from valued vineyard sites all over Oregon to produce an interesting line-up of wines. I particularly enjoyed their 2008 Viognier which had a lovely body consisting of a clean yet slightly creamy, oily texture with a core of ripe pear, top notes of melon and citrus and the typical apricot finish. The 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir had succulent red raspberries, cherries and strawberries with subtle accents of chocolate, spice and smoke. There were four single-vineyard designates, each with a different flavor profile representative of the particular vineyard’s location. The 2007 Estate Pinot Noir was still very young and fruit-forward with big, bold black cherries and plum yet also well-rounded with some rose petals, Cherry Vanilla Coke and light base of peppery tannins.

I’ve always enjoyed my experiences at Penner-Ash; with exceptional wine and a patio overlooking one of the best views in town, it’s the perfect spot for a romantic picnic, a family lunch or just an afternoon getaway.

My next stop along Ribbon Ridge Road was the brand new Trisaetum tasting room, winery and vineyard. The tasting room, come art gallery, displays owner and winemaker James Frey’s photography and vivid abstract expressionist works; many of which incorporate vines and vineyard soil into the powerful, articulate and vibrant pieces.

While perusing the passionate visual representation of James’ art, I was equally enjoying the creative statement he makes with his wines. Partnering with fellow winemaker Greg McClellan, the two crafted their first vintage in 2007 with a selection of three Rieslings and two Pinot Noirs, which Tasting room associate Courtney Ashford proceeded to pour for me. Of those, the 2007 Trisaetum Riesling was ripe with grapefruit, white flowers and peaches with nicely balanced sweetness and acidity; the 2007 Tristae Pinot Noir was a remarkable and approachable blend with dark cherry and blackberry fruit, smoke, spice, just the right amount of velvety texture in the mouth and acids to make it food-friendly, as a Pinot noir should be. The 2007 Trisaetum Pinot Noir had a deep, ruby color, predominantly cherry flavor with structure making it built to last. And like a bite of dark chocolate at the end of the day, I finished my tasting with a long sip of the 2008 Lassa Riesling. The sweet, golden colored wine was like a bouquet of tropical flowers and fruit. It was light, despite its density and with flavors of peach and apricot finishing long and clean. Trisaetum is definitely worth a visit on your own tour of Oregon wine.

Located just off Ribbon Ridge Road, but still part of the smallest American Viticultural Area (AVA) consisting of five-miles of some of the most sought-after fruit, lies Aramenta Cellars. Co-owner and co-winemaker Darlene Looney was convivially pouring wines that day in their relaxed yet rustic and farm-like tasting room.

Darlene poured a Chardonnay and three Pinot noirs from the Estate vineyard to start. I tasted the 2006 and 2007 vintage Pinot Noir Willamette Valleys, preferring the latter with Bing cherry, red raspberry, white pepper and soft floral essences. The 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve had a nice dark, black fruit sweetness on the lips, like eating blackberries straight from the bramble, and some faint pepper and spice on the finish. Darlene told me she has five sons, of which one makes beer and three make wine, with their first vintage under the label Brothers.

Enjoy the wine on the small outdoor patio, draped in hops, scenically overlooking the converted wooden barn winery, pond and vineyards. For a real experience, see what it’s like relaxing on the grounds after closing time and stay the night in Aramenta’s vineyard guest suite.

My final stop of the day brought me to Bergstrom Wines in the Dundee Hills. Family owned and operated for the past decade (and certified biodynamic) winemaker, vineyard manager and general Manager Josh Bergstrom crafts his wines in the classic Burgundian style.

The 2007 Chardonnay was truly a favorite of mine and exceptional with sweet yet tart aromas of lemon meringue pie, apples, pears, honey and toasted nuts that all came through on the palate as well. The wine had enough structure and minerality to age well into the next decade but balanced acidity that lifted and refreshed the palate, making it an ideal food-pairing wine, now. Though at $75, it’s the most expensive white wine in the Willamette Valley, and though admittedly decadently deelish, I do wonder about its position in the current market.

Deanna Toney was providing warm and friendly tasting room service while she eloquently explained the make-up of the 2007 Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir, “It’s a blend of 15 different vineyards with all of Oregon’s six AVAs represented in one glass,” she said. The wine had a rich garnet color, lovely and complex perfume and was bursting with cherries, raspberries, coffee and chocolate indicative of this region. The estate wine, the 2007 de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir, was a bit sassier and quite different than the Cumberland with intense, pronounced flavors of wild black forest fruit (blackberries, huckleberries, marionberries) and sassy kicks of nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. The highlight was the memorable Chardonnay, but a close runner up was the 2007 Bergstrom Vineyard Pinot Noir. This youthful yet elegant wine showed signs of tremendous promise for ageability. It already possessed many of the benchmark Pinot noir characteristics like red cherry, rose petals, a touch of fallen leaves and subtle spice and with its focused flavors, lush and silky mid-palate and a long and pleasant finish, this wine was still a winner in my book.

I watched Lily, the resident black lab who seemed to think there was a revolving door to the tasting room as she had everyone so well trained to open doors for her. I followed her out to the partially covered patio where together, for but a moment, time stood still as we enjoyed the vineyard views with rolling hills and oak trees beyond, before Lily meandered back to the tasting room door, knocking to be let back in while I went on my way. I left Bergstrom with a bottle the Cumberland Reserve feeling satisfied that my single bottle purchase will be enjoyed and was a genuine example of quality Oregon Pinot noir, but secretly I was wishing I could have bought a case of the ’07 Bergstrom Vineyard. Some day.

As much as weekend tasting has become a part of my new routine, so has thinking about and deriving my lessons for each blog post on the way home. I started thinking about lessons and how each bottle itself is its own lesson with something remarkable to teach; a lesson about the weather patterns the year the fruit set, geography, soil conditions, the history of a family, the determination of the winemaker. It teaches us about hard work, joy, beauty, appreciation, passion and failure. I embrace the lessons each bottle teaches me and I hope you do too. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Living La Dolce Vita… in Carlton

Driving along the back-country roads past farmhouses where livestock aplenty roam sprawling acreage, I couldn’t help but reminisce about my years living in the remote countryside of southwestern Colorado where my daily commute was more like a scenic route along similar roads, past similar farmhouses with similar sprawling acreage.

I pulled into the quaint little town of Carlton with one blinking stoplight and a quiet demeanor. I immediately noticed the Tyrus Evan tasting room in the old train Depot and since traditionally train stations would be the first impression visitors had of a town, I figured it would be an appropriate first stop for me as well.

Built in 1923, the notable historic Depot is experiencing a new revival as a tasting room for Tyrus Evan’s wines. But once upon a time, it was Carlton’s “Red Electric Car Station,” established as a way station along the Southern Pacific Railroad between Portland and St. Joseph to help farmers get their produce to the nearby cities without having to travel such great distances. The Old-West feeling has been beautifully and authentically preserved and is seen throughout the Victorian-era building, from structural features to western-themed décor which also vividly and almost painfully reminded me of the establishments in the old-western town of Durango, Colorado where I lived before landing in Oregon.

Legendary Oregon Pinot noir winemaker Ken Wright crafts Tyrus Evan wines and the label is named for his two sons (their middle names actually) who may one day take the helm. In the meantime, Ken has a chance to work with some warmer-climate varietals specializing in big, juicy, expressive and mouth-watering Syrahs and Clarets (varietal blends also known as Bordeaux) using fruit from friends with some of the best vineyard sites in the Pacific Northwest. Depending on the vintage, Ken also makes Viognier, Chardonnay and individual bottlings of Cabernet Franc or Malbec.

The inviting and comfortable tasting room features a traditional parlor area with plush seating which was occupied by a group amusing themselves on a perfectly lazy Sunday afternoon with a variety of board games, wine and a lovely cheese plate complete with pepper jelly and dried pears (available for purchase). The wines were presented in individual glasses on a clever tasting placemat printed with each of the wine’s vintage, varietal (or blend), vineyards and price. Tyrus Evan has given new meaning to the marketing term “branding” as their label itself ingeniously looks like a cattle brand. Ken plans on keeping production small, but as the secret gets out, I’m not sure how possible that will be.

The real beauty of downtown Carlton, besides the obvious and external visual beauty, is that it’s a destination in and of itself. With tasting rooms, restaurants and shops all within a few-block’s walk, I just parked my car and wandered the town for the day. I found my way into Scott Paul Wines, where in striking contrast to the soothing, “days of yore” feeling of Tyrus Evan, the more contemporary bustling bar was offering up a Scott Paul Pinot noir as well as a variety of French Burgundy imports to taste.

Founders and proprietors Martha and Scott Wright were both behind the bar sharing their passion, their story and their wines. Founded first in 1999, they built their current winery and tasting room in 2005 (complete for the 2006 vintage which is on their current tasting menu) in two buildings dating back to 1915 when they were used as a granary and creamery. The original granary roof was recycled and used for both the tasting room ceiling and bar front—serving its purpose decoratively, artistically and functionally.

Because Scott Paul is a direct national importer for small family producers in Burgundy France, what they do special, (in addition to their elegant Pinot noir which is true to both location and the classic French style) is offer guests the experience of tasting Old World and New World Pinot noir side by side. The French Pinots were lovely, but I’m not going to remark on them because they’re not part of my Oregon tour of wine. The 2006 Scott Paul La Paulee Pinot Noir was inviting and somewhat mysterious. The ‘06 vintage produced wines that were concentrated, big and fruity, as was this one. Though lacking any real earthy characteristics, there was a beautiful, soft under-layer of roses, strawberries and pepper that made the wine bold while maintaining its finesse; a good example of balance. The wine was a blend of four different vineyards sites from all over the Willamette Valley including the prized Shea, Ribbon Ridge, Momtazzi and Stoller Vineyards. I left Scott Paul thinking about how everyone has their own unique story; and like all stories, some are better than others.

Solena has one of the most romantic stories by far. In 2000, Laurant and Danielle Andrus Montalieu purchased an eighty-acre estate as a wedding gift to each other. The story goes that instead of registering for traditional gifts like china, crystal and silver, the couple registered for clones of Pinot noir to plant their vineyard. Ultimately, I guess all the love of their family and friends can be found in each of the vines and each individual cluster of grapes. Solena, named for the couple’s daughter, is a combination of two names meaning “sun” and “moon”, and to the Montalieus it represents the celebration of life. They also own and operate NW Wine Company which is a custom winemaking facility located in McMinnville where small producers can use state of the art equipment to vinify their wines. The Montalieus are also preparing to open a brand new winery and tasting room in Yamhill (as to whether they’ll continue with their downtown location, has still yet to be decided).

Lynnette was pouring the wine in the tasting room that day, and though she slyly confessed to me it was only her third day, her understanding of the brand and the wines was that of a seasoned professional. Solena makes an estate Pinot noir and sources the rest of the fruit for a full portfolio of wines making for a new tasting experience every time you visit. While I really enjoyed all the wines, the one that struck me the most was the 2007 Grand Cuvee. At only $25, this value-driven wine didn’t lack in quality one bit. The deep, ruby color was enhanced with the aromas of pie cherries and sweet strawberries with nuances of floral and spice. The bright acids in this lively wine reminded me of how good Pinots are enhanced by lighter foods like fish, pork and chicken, and I thought the ’07 Grand Cuvee would be the perfect food complement, so I bought a bottle for the collection.

Located in the old bank building, circa 1910, you’ll find The Tasting Room and EIEIO, named by owner and winemaker Jay “Old” McDonald that is the oldest tasting room in Carlton. I really enjoyed the use of the original bank vault as a wine cellar holding nearly 50 different Northwest varietals.  I was confused and slightly put off when the manager explained to me she didn’t honor industry discounts because she was a retail outlet. If they’re the tasting room for EIEIO and sell other wine too, how was that different from any other tasting room in the Valley?

I left pondering this dilemma but quickly forgot when I arrived at Troon Vineyard’s tasting room located on N. Kutch, just off the main drag. The organically grown vineyards are located in the Applegate Valley near Grants Pass, Oregon and they just completed a brand new winery facility with tasting room and full kitchen where you can taste at the source. The Carlton tasting room allows the winery to reach an even larger audience though and they will continue their Carlton presence.

Troon’s tasting room was large and interesting with unfinished cement walls and enormous cement bins holding at least a pallet of wine in each. Karissa kindly poured me through the current flight; which started with a classic 2008 Viognier smelling of pear and green apple with lingering tastes of apricot and lemon grass. I also enjoyed the 2005 Blossom Fire Cabernet Reserve; which if I closed my eyes, it very well could have been a bowlful of plums, black cherries, licorice and toffee-covered hazelnuts. The 2007 Druids Fluid is the winery’s bestseller. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Zinfandel and Syrah, this fruit-forward wine was pleasing with a mouthful of sweet, chocolate covered cherries and red raspberries. Hunter and I enjoyed a bottle on that early fall evening with a hearty chili con carne which warmed us to the bone. You know I’m not the biggest fan of stickies (sweet wines), so I was somewhat reluctant when I saw a Tempranillo Port on the tasting horizon. Troon removed all doubt from my mind with their lovely and distinguished 2007 Insomnia Port. Paired with Honest Chocolate’s truffles, the wine was ripe with flavors of dates, currants, candied apples and amaretto and was the perfect end to the perfect day. My lesson for the day was simple. Never question or never turn down a little dolce. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Work a Day in My Vineyard…

I headed off towards downtown Carlton again for what quickly was becoming my routine weekly wine tasting sojourn and found myself awestruck and emotionally moved by the powerful colors of Fall beginning to strangle out the last life of Summer. The hazelnut trees were shedding their fruit into a veritable carpet of brown nuts in the orchards and the excitement of Harvest was buzzing all around.

My first stop of the day was the six-acre vineyard estate of Carlo & Julian located just on the edge of town. With roosters squawking, an abundance of cats roaming the grounds, a certain wild feeling and a virtually unmarked tasting room in the wine cellar, I wasn’t sure I was in the right place until winemaker and proprietor, Felix Madrid quickly and quietly assured me I was.

Felix invited me into the tasting area located in the cool and dark barrel room whose focal point (besides the oak barrels full of aging wine) was an antique stained glass window recovered from a church in Nova Scotia appropriately decorated with the words “Go work a day in my vineyard”. That window got me thinking: Winemaking seems like such a romantic gig, but until you’ve walked a mile in someone else’s shoes, or worked a day in their vineyard, you really could never understand the blood, sweat and tears that goes into each bottle.

Felix of course grows Pinot Noir, however he is the only vineyard in downtown Carlton growing sophisticated and distinctive Tempranillo, Merlot, Carmeniere and Malbec (in line with his Argentinean heritage); and in this vast sea of Pinot Noir, it was most interesting to explore some other varietals grown in the region. I wondered if thoughts of global warming were motivating Felix to grow some warmer climate varietals, but I’ve heard that Carlton is its own little micro-climate with a pocket of warmer air and I’ve noticed several of the wineries in the area experimenting with red wine varietals other than Pinot noir. One of the things I really liked, and admired, about Carlo & Julian was the simplicity of everything. There was no pretense, no fancy, shmancy granite counters and cherry cabinets… instead it was raw and beautiful and purely about the wine (probably much like the pioneering days of Oregon winemaking when many of the producers tasted out of their garages).

I left Carlo & Julian with a bottle of 2005 Estate Tempranillo and instructions to lay it down for five years, dreaming of the dishes I could pair with it that night… paella, a big bowl of cioppino or a mouth-watering appetizer of figs and goat cheese wrapped in prosciutto.

I went to the opposite side of the quaint little town that seems to revolve around the wine industry (with more wineries per square foot than probably anywhere else, i.e. more tasting rooms than Starbucks and churches, combined!) where I found Cana’s Feast Winery, formerly Cuneo Cellar. Cana’s Feast, though practically in town, has a real country-esque feel with an expansive outdoor patio, well-tended Bocce ball courts, a relaxing view of the Coastal range and the scents of olive and lemon trees, stone pines, and Italian cypresses lingering in the air.

The pièce de résistance is Cana’s Italian Cucina, an indoor/outdoor restaurant serving a seasonally inspired Mediterranean menu. I highly recommend working this restaurant into your tasting schedule. The chef uses all seasonal and local ingredients (mostly from their Estate garden, preparing everything by hand… from bread, pastas and sausages to stocks, chutneys and jams—and it’s all ridiculously reasonably priced. If you plan to visit, dinner is served on Thursday, Friday and Saturdays and lunch on Friday, Saturday and Sundays.

The wines were rich and bold, pairing well with their hearty Italian food. I had a 2006 Bricco Pinot Noir with nice, bright red fruit, a good strong backbone and nice supple tannins and five other Bricco wines (also good), all sourced from eastern Washington and southern Oregon. Now that I think about it, I don’t think I even tasted the Canas Feast wines. The name Canas Feast refers to the biblical story of the wedding feast where Jesus turns water into wine. A point I tried to look past as I’ve never really been particularly fond of having religion poured down my throat in any capacity, especially not in the form of wine. There seems to be a bit of confusion on what to call the wines. They used to be Cuneo, then they switched to Canas Feast with a lower-priced tier called Bricco, which they are also now dropping and putting all their wines under the Canas Feast label. Did you follow that? Yes, I agree, one label sounds a lot less confusing.

Located adjacent to Canas Feast is the Carlton Winemakers Studio, so off I went. The sign on the door to the Studio said they were open and to ring the bell, which I did repeatedly, but with no answer. I was about to leave when a lovely young girl finally let me, and the other guests who were also waiting, in. One of the guests (a buyer for Stumptown Coffee) tried to bribe her with a couple of bags of beans making me slightly jealous—nobody’s ever brought me gifts in trade for wine tastings (hint, hint). She offered us a tour of the winery (piggybacking on another guests’ scheduled tour I believe) and showed us around the winery and cellar—which oddly enough featured a climbing wall. The facility is built with sustainability in mind, incorporating many recycled and reused materials and is an ingenious concept providing ten winemakers a state-of-the-art production operation to vinify and then showcase their wines.

Though a bit spendy, it’s definitely a worthwhile stop to become exposed to some of Oregon’s newest and most interesting artisanal producers. Unfortunately, my pourer seemed more interested in schmoozing two special guests and she disappeared to the outdoor patio leaving me alone. After waiting around to purchase a bottle of wine, for what seemed way too much time, I finally left empty-handed, impressed with the wines, the building and the philosophy… just wishing they had the service to match.

I parked on West Main and walked the remainder of my wine tour. Carlton’s an amazing destination like that, you don’t have the vineyards and the views, but if you’re looking to taste a lot of different Oregon limited production wineries, with 20 different tasting rooms, it’s your town. Though it’s obviously great to have such a variety of choices, I couldn’t help but be vividly reminded of the Boulder Mall Crawl from my college days at University of Colorado. Always an observer and never a participant, every Halloween, the pedestrian mall turned into a frenzy of drunks trying to visit as many bars as they could, literally crawling to the next by the end of the evening. Having that much alcohol accessible in such a short amount of time just can’t be good… be it Colorado or Carlton.

Off my soapbox and back to wine tasting at Zena’s, where surprisingly, they don’t produce any Pinot noir (yes, you heard me correct). A family-owned winery producing four wines, mostly from the Del Rio Vineyard in the Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon. Their dry Riesling, actually using local fruit from Montinore was expressive with lots of tropical fruit, a touch of apricots and citrus zing with subtle spice, nice minerality and lively acidity. I also enjoyed their Cabernet Franc’s full body and flavor profile, including dark fruit, currants, spice and toasted nuts.

Next door, at Hawkins Cellar, which just opened its doors in April of this year, I enjoyed a memorable 2007 Syrah from the Columbia Valley. At $20, it was an amazing value, and though the bottle has sadly been long finished, I keep thinking I should go back and get another. Woody was pouring that day, and a musician at heart; I could definitely see the performer in him. I enjoyed our conversation and looking at newspaper clippings of him and his 200-pound rescue Saint Bernard. Yeah, I’m a sucker for the dog.

Continue your walk down Main and stop in at Terra Vina, formerly Dalla Vina where you’ll find a variety of well-crafted wines from very select Oregon and Washington vineyards. Producing just over 1800 cases at Owen Roe, Terra Vina’s wines have won numerous awards—with low tannins (using no seeds and stems in the fermentation process) they’re easy to drink when young. The stand-out wine for me was the 2007 Terra Vina Malbec from the Columbia Valley with a deep, dark, alluring color, a base of sweet, ripe, dark fruit, with underlying flavors of cassis, cocoa, tobacco and sweet molasses. It was plush and lush with good strength and balance. Emily, who was pouring wines that day, was joking that their Malbec would make a fantastic crayon color and she should send the color into Crayola—I think she’s onto something, the color was spectacular.

Apparently, Carlton does “hospitality”. Cliff Creek Cellars was also serving Honest Chocolate’s truffles made from their wine along with some creamy Rogue blue cheese and crackers as well. Cliff Creek’s wines are all crafted by Joe Dobbes using only Estate-grown fruit from Sam’s Valley Vineyard in Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley. I was greeted (and I say that loosely because it was more like being chased away) by the tasting room mascot, a Yorkshire Terrier named Joey who was very threatening dressed in her cute, fuzzy, pink sweater.  Bethany (the tasting room manager), poured wine, while Joey contentedly lounged on a kind guest’s lap as if she was royalty. I chatted with a guy who was out with his wife celebrating his 40^th birthday with a visit to wine country. We had both tasted at seven wineries so far and I was surprised he could match my stamina. But since he wasn’t spitting, I wonder how long his birthday celebration continued. Happy 40th Matt, hope it was a great one! Of the wines at Cliff Creek, I especially enjoyed their 2004 Syrah. Its nose was like a box of chocolate covered cherries, sweet and rich… I could smell it all day long. In the mouth, it was smooth, full-bodied and tasted of blackberries and toasted almonds. Some of these wines taste so good now; when I hear they’ll only improve with age, it’s almost incomprehensible. But I bow to the expert and have my bottles lying down, as instructed… for now.

A few doors down I easily located Barking Frog. With an interesting name and frogs all around the tasting room, one just has to ask. So, what’s with the frogs? Actually, it turned out to be an interesting story: Native American legend tells that the barking frog is a symbol for prosperity and a sign to mankind that the environment is in harmony. This philosophy sits well with a winery that only purchases grapes from vineyards practicing sustainable farming and also uses the Vinoseal glass seal closure instead of cork. Winemaker and principal Ron Helbig produces his wines at August Cellars in Newberg with fruit from both Washington and Oregon. Like many of the wineries in the area, they paired their wines with truffles whose ganache was made from their own wines. A large group pre-funking between wedding ceremony and reception was joking about how no one ever takes the last piece of food. While I was contemplating this theory, heavily eyeing a single dark chocolate truffle sitting oh so lonely on the plate, the next guest who walked in quickly and eagerly snatched that last morsel of chocolaty goodness up. I guess the theory doesn’t apply to chocolate.

Just steps away is Folin Cellars who just built a brand new winery in Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley and also strategically takes advantage of Carlton’s captive audience with a tasting room on Main. Folin produces 500-1100 cases annually of Estate-grown, warmer-climate Rhone varietals and a Tempranillo. And like some of their environmentally conscious neighbors, instead of cork (or screw caps), they’re also using the Vinoseal glass seal closure. It’s kind of like a glass cork, there’s still a bit of ritual involved in presentation and opening, but it’s even better because it’s new and modern… it’s just plain cool. The wines that won my heart were a 2007 Viogner, smelling of melon, peach, citrus and white flowers. The wine was exotic with lingering flavors of tropical fruit, melon and cream. The 2008 Tempranillo Rose was like no Rose I’ve ever tasted, it was almost red in color (for those men afraid of pink wine) with surprising aromas of earth and smoke (I assume by the earth and smoke flavor that it was either aged or fermented in oak, but I honestly forgot to ask). I also enjoyed their 2006 Syrah—sweet and spicy with strong flavors of dark cherries, cola and coffee.

Seven of Hearts was my final stop of the day and after tasting so many Rogue Valley wines; it was almost oddly refreshing to taste cool climate Willamette Valley varietals again. The name Seven of Hearts holds a number of different meanings. Originally inspired by a medieval-style, Burgundian playing card winemaker/principal Byron Dooley picked up while vacationing in France, and also as a tribute to his remarkable cat Seven. The wines are classic French-style—pure, elegant and complex. I started with a 2008 Chardonnay that was crisp and citrusy, with subtle minerality and excellent structure from neutral French oak. The 2008 Chatte d’Avignon (a blend of Viognier and Roussanne) was just as Byron described, friendly, approachable and full of personality, like the cat it was named for. The Willamette Valley is making great white blends worthy of exploration. Byron’s Pinot noir’s are sourced from prized vineyard sites and his portfolio includes a few single-vineyard bottlings and a few cuvees. My favorite was the 2007 Pinot Noir The Cost Vineyard from the Eola-Amita region. This wine had a nice light color with bright red raspberries, moist earth, cracked black pepper and just a kiss of some fragrant violets. I enjoyed how Byron’s wines let the expression of the terrior show through, it’s a perfect example of how Pinot Noir tells you where it’s from, if you pay attention.

Also sharing space with the Seven of Hearts Carlton tasting room is the candy-making kitchen for Honest Chocolates. Byron’s wife Dana is the genius chocolatier who developed a line of wine tasting chocolates designed to complement Pinot noir and other favorite Pacific Northwest varietals and has since personally created truffles for many of the area tasting rooms using those wineries’ wines as the foundation. Very special, very unique—and if you ever thought wine and chocolate weren’t a match made in heaven, you obviously haven’t tried Honest Chocolates.

As I drove home along Hwy 240 after a very full day of tasting (enjoying the scenery and avoiding the Dundee traffic jam), I passed Carlo & Julian and remembered the stained-glass window, adorned with the expression “Work a day in my vineyard”. This saying seemed to be haunting me throughout the day as I was thinking about in the terms of “Walk a mile in my shoes”. I realized I’ve been exploring this very topic recently. I’ve noticed when I’ve spoken with winemakers and winery owners about my project; some of them have told me they’d prefer my job (they must realize I don’t get paid for this—in fact there’s a negative cash flow effect taking place). When I’m at work at Cooper Mountain Vineyards, I’ve had guests look at me with fluttering eyelashes, romantically asking how one goes about getting a job in a tasting room, because it would be so fun. Is it simply a case of the grass is always greener? When it comes down to it, if someone’s good at what they do, they make it look easy and their title might sound romantic, but if we could only work a day in their vineyard, we’d soon realize everyone goes through the same stress, expectation, disappointment, rejection, failures and day-to-day dull drum as anyone else. Since writing this blog post however, I’ve starting to think about that expression at greater length and see it through a different and brighter light. Perhaps the saying is an invitation to all who see: Work a day in my vineyard… and you’ll see life blossoming and flourishing. See hard work come to fruition with wine that’s like poetry in a glass. Like the poetry in Felix Madrid’s stained glass.

Still more Carlton to come (very soon). Until we sip again…

Cheers!