How Often Does a Wine Totally Take You By Surprise?

Maybe I've been spoiled by so much good wine, but these days it takes something really special to sweep me off my feet. One thing that excites me though, is a winery that does something so completely different and totally unexpected, and then does it exceedingly well. Case in point, WillaKenzie Estate.

In Oregon, we're blessed with an abundance of  fantastic Pinot noir and even great Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, but rarely do you find a winery that's stepping completely out of the box and delivering something totally off the beaten path. Yet somehow, I found just the thing.

Last year, with great luck, I stumbled upon WillaKenzie Estate's 2010 Pinot Meunier and boy was I happy I did. Sadly, I only purchased a couple of bottles of this beauty. I was so impressed with this wine, I was saving this last bottle for a special occasion, or at least a special person to share it with. But alas, I decided I was special occasion and special person enough and popped it open last night with dinner. So, in the end, you're actually the lucky one I get to share it with :)

Though this variety actually ripens more consistently and reliably than Pinot noir, for reasons unbeknownst to me, Pinot Meunier is not typically found as a stand-alone red wine and not widely grown in the Willamette Valley. Traditionally, Pinot Meunier is used as one of the three main blending grapes in Champagne (the other two are Pinot noir and Chardonnay). For use in Champagne (insert drool here), the grapes are pressed immediately, it's juice never having contact with their skins to encourage tannin and color development. Meunier means Dusty Miller, which is characterized by its leaves that are covered with a white, dusty, powdery substance (almost like flour, and not to be confused with mildew). WillaKenzie harvested their estate-grown grapes and put them in cold storage for a few days before they went through a traditional cold-soak maceration, fermentation and punch-down regime (not unlike their Pinot noir). What was created, was a limited-production wine that shows love, forethought and risk. All the makings of a winner.

WillaKenzie is one of the few wineries (certainly in Oregon anyway), who is producing Pinot Meunier as a single vineyard and varietally-specific wine. It's 100% estate grown, in Yamhill Oregon, and worth the experience. If you're an acid hound, like me, you'll especially love this wine. The high acidity is part of what makes it pair so well with food. The wine is light, yet plush and tart. It's screaming with fresh fruit flavors of sour cherry, cranberry and pucker-power pomegranate, with compliments of white pepper, vanilla and pie spice.

Happy Marriages:
Keep food pairings simple. An absolute pleasure to drink all on its own, the WillaKenzie Pinot Meuneir is ideally suited to lighter foods. Try it with roasted chicken, seared scallops, shrimp on the barbi, savory potatoes and sauteed zucchini.

The 2010 Pinot Meunier is sadly sold out, but the 2011 vintage has just been released and is impressive and oh-so-drinkable now too. Rest assured a few more of those bottles will find their way into my cellar. If you're smart, they'll make their way into yours too.

Aquaman to the Rescue… Cocktail in Hand.

Summer in Portland has come early this year. While most years, June still finds me dressed in my rain jacket and boots, this year I have already shed those garments, trading them in for a sundress and a nice healthy(?) tan. And though I typically don’t have much use for AC in my car, this year I find myself wishing for the refrigerated and re-circulated air to blow me down. Yeah, nothing like black leather in the hot sun with no way of cooling it down other than your own body. Can you say “sticky?" Sit in traffic in a slow moving car for an hour or so and I’m fairly certain you’ll feel something like a rotisserie chicken. When this happens to me, my mind immediately goes to Aquaman. But I’m not talking about being rescued by superheroes, I’m speaking the language of savior cocktails. Do you know of a better language?

Aquaman may have been the most underappreciated Justice League member, who even knows what his superpower was anyway? And, while Aquaman may not have been the coolest or most memorable of superheroes, THE Aquaman is definitely the coolest and most memorable drink you’ll ever come across. It's the king of cocktails. The master of the mixed drink. You might even feel something like a superhero when you drink it (go on, try to communicate with underwater sea-life)… it may not make you swim faster, but at the very least, it will make you forget all about your stifling commute. What more can you really ask for? Come on, did you really think you'd acquire superhuman powers?

The anise and lime flavors of this cocktail are simply perfect for an evening cooling off on your deck, but if you’re thinking dinner, I recommend pairing it with Mexican food. Though Aquavit is traditionally a Scandavian spirit, the sweet and sour components of the cocktail work surprisingly well with salty fish tacos while at the same time rescuing you from the heat of a spicy salsa.

Mix yourself up a tall one, sit back relax, and then let me know how Aquaman saved the world.

AQUAMAN 

Serves 1

Fresh squeezed lime juice

Aquavit (I especially like Krogstad from House Spirits Distillery based in Portland)

Simple Syrup

Ice

1. Add 2 shots each of lime juice, Aquavit and simple syrup into a shaker with ice. 
2. Shake and pour into a superhero serving glass. 
3. Garnish with a twist of lime or a float of mint leaves.
4. Sit back and let your secret identity take shape.

Saké PDX… the Saké Bomb of Events

I sat at my table in awe, mouth hanging open, in surprise and appreciation for what I was witnessing at the table next to me. The server was pouring a glass (choko) of saké, and instead of stopping when the glass was full, he continued to pour and pour, and pour, until the wine had sufficiently overflowed into the box (masu) that the glass sat in, filling both containers. I found the presentation so impressive, I wanted to order my own glass, just so I could watch the process all over again. I couldn't help myself, I felt the words overflowing from my mouth like the saké from the bottle. I said "How cool is that!" and then proceeded to ask the couple at the table next to me if they knew why it was done like that. Their answer was a simple “No, to draw attention to it might make it stop, and we don't complain.” Next, I asked the waiter about the meaning, to which he answered "It’s the traditional way." Unsatisfied with the answers I was getting, I pulled out my trusty phone and turned to Google. Wiki told me that there is in fact a very specific meaning as to why saké is poured this way. It is simply intended to show the restaurant's generosity. I generously shared this information with the couple and the waiter.

I've dined in a lot of sushi restaurants, but I couldn't recall ever experiencing such hospitality before. Though I’d ordered saké numerous times I was never shown such generosity until I ordered a glass of my favorite saké (Yuki no Bosha – Cabin in the Snow) at my favorite sushi restaurant, Bamboo Sushi in Portland. And then it was just as I remembered. The saké was beautifully light and refreshing, with notes of melon and white peaches, and the presentation made it even better. They were so generous! :)

"Generosity is not me giving that which I need more than you do, but is giving me that which you need more than I do." Khalil Gibran

On June 27^th, Saké Fest returns to Portland at The Governer Hotel. Attendees will have the opportunity to sample more than 100 different kinds of saké, plum wine and beer from near and afar. With premium and rare saké available to taste, guests can learn about and experience something very unique and very special, this is not your typical wine tasting event. And though the vendors probably won’t be pouring your drink to overflowing, they will be generous with their knowledge and you’re sure to discover a new favorite beverage with incredible versatility and with such a variety of characteristics you never thought possible. You have been warned though, you will likely be converted and walk away from the event a saké snob, never be able to look at someone who orders warm saké the same way again.

Saké Fest PDX is an event like no other. Experience it for yourself on Thursday, June 27^th from 6:30-9:00 pm at the Governer Hotel. Expect a memorable evening overflowing with rare Japanese saké, an a little education and delicious food pairings from area restaurants to bring it all together. Get your tickets now, I’ll be there hoping to clink glasses with you, we can talk about saké or what it means to give without expecting anything in return. See you there! Kanpai.

Love the Club Your With…

Today’s wine clubs offer members a great deal more than merely complimentary tastings, seasonal parties and wine discounts. It’s like being a part of the inner circle.

Click here to read more about the benefits of being a Wine Club Member on Oregon Wine Press…

Give it Up for Oregon's 17th AVA

The Oregon Wine Board recently announced that Elkton Oregon received approval from the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau  (TTB) becoming the state’s newest American Viticultural Area (AVA). The Elkton Oregon AVA, Oregon's 17th, is located within the Umpqua Valley AVA, which is also a part of the greater Southern Oregon AVA.

Some call it terrior.

Similar to wine appellations in Europe, AVAs are designated when someone petitions the TTB proving that specific areas show qualities determined to be unique to that region's geography with boundaries that are specifically defined. The Elkton AVA is on the Umpqua River and a mere 36 miles from the Pacific Ocean. This location brings daily sea breezes and penetrating fog, giving Elkton its unique climate – cool, maritime and temperate. According to Charles Humble of the Oregon Wine Center, “The climate in Elkton is quite different from the prevailing perceptions of the surrounding areas. Southern Oregon is most often thought of as warmer and drier than winegrowing areas farther north in the Willamette Valley.”

Humble says, “The newest Oregon AVA is the fulfillment of wine pioneer Ken Thomason’s dream of growing world class cool climate Pinot noir and white grapes near the small town of Elkton, which has a population of 170. Thomason began planting grapes in 1972 on a west-facing bench two miles east of Elkton at a site now owned by Mike and Vonnie Landt of Rivers Edge Winery.”

The newly attained AVA status will enable winegrowers and winemakers within the Elkton Oregon AVA to better describe the origin of their wines while allowing consumers to better identify wines from that region at the point of sale. Some wineries and winemakers feel that narrowing the AVA down to such a small area actually makes it harder to sell the wine. I've heard people say they have a hard enough time describing to someone where the Willamette Valley is, or the Umpqua River Valley, much less having to explain places like Chehalem Mountain, or Elkton, for that matter. This argument speaks to me, but I'm not in education, I'm a marketing person…I've learned to embrace the KISS philosophy, Keep it Simple, Stupid.

Ultimately, this article isn't intended to debate the merits or detriments of AVAs, it's about sharing the news that Oregon now has 17 different and unique ways to denote their wines. So let's all raise our collective glass for a warm welcome to Elkton Oregon AVA. 

Food and Wine Combinations that are Downright Deligious!

Pairing Pinot Noir with food can be as simple as grilled salmon, mushrooms or pork. And while that combination can be positively scintillating, when you challenge yourself to think outside the culinary box, doing so might just get you the golden ticket to epicurean heaven.

Dreaming of taking the food and wine experience to a whole new level, WillaKenzie Events Manager Claudia Bowers looked beyond traditional French or Northwestern fare to showcase how truly versatile the varietal could be, especially when paired with unexpected foods. Bowers worked with Portland chef extraordinaire Ricardo Segura of Patanegra restaurant, and the esteemed winemakers from WillaKenzie Estate, Elk Cove Vineyards and Ghost Hill Cellars to create a Pinot and Paella dinner that would expose people to a new trend in wine and culinary education.

You heard me right, she said Pinot and Paella.

According to Bowers, pairing Pinot Noir and Paella was a natural idea. “I wanted to show how Pinot Noir is the Little Black Dress of wine, it goes with everything is truly perfect for every event,” said Bowers.

When asked how his wines stood up against the exotic flavors of saffron and paprika of the paella, WillaKenzie Estate Winemaker, Thibaud Mandet says, “as long as the exotic flavors are not too strong and overwhelming, the match will be a good one. Wines with high acid levels, moderate tannins, solid structure and complex aromatics help, and Pinot Noir can be versatile that way.”

“It’s all about balance and intensity”, Mandet says.

When Patanegra Chef Ricardo Segura was challenged with serving paella with Pinot noir—a classically Spanish rice dish served in his restaurant—with Pinot Noir, instead of Spanish wines like Tempranillo or Grenache, he knew he had to make a few modifications. According to Segura, “There are so many variations of paella. In this instance, I utilized rabbit broth and meat to make the paella more rich than typical, complementing the lush, rustic, earthy and fruity components of the wine.”

Pinot Noir and Paella is just one of the many potential success stories. Because Pinot Noir is such a well-balanced wine, it can be coupled with a wide variety of foods and your imagination is your only limitation… don't let it hold you back. Combining food and wine can be a religious experience, this one will leave you praying for more.

Patanegra Paella 

by Ricardo Segura of Patanegra

Serves 6-8 people

1.5 lbs. escolar

1.5 lbs. mussels

1.5 lbs. prawns

1.5 lbs. langostinos

1.5 lbs rabbit

½ lb chorizo

½ lb chicken

½ lb ham

½ lb calamari

¼ lb roasted red peppers

1 ½ cups Sofrito (garlic, onions, peppers and tomatoes that have been pre-simmered)

Parsley for garnish

2 cups paella rice (short grain - Bomba is preferred, Arborio will do in a pinch)

Spanish paprika

4 cups rabbit (or chicken) stock

1 T saffron

Sea salt to taste

1. Heat some olive oil in a paella pan and sear/brown the rabbit, chorizo and ham.
2. Add the calamari and stir over high heat for 2-3 minutes.
3. Add the Sofrito and continue stirring.
4. Slowly add rice, level off in the pan and then do not touch.
5. Add stock and bring to boil, then add salt and saffron and reduce temperature.
6. Reduce temperature, add remaining fish/seafood.
7. Cover and finish in 375 degree oven (or on stove over low heat) for 15-20 minutes.
8. Let rest for 5 minutes, serve, give thanks and devour.

Eat to Live, Live to Eat or Just Simply Love to Eat

The name James Beard is to foodies as Pavlov’s bell is to dogs. You hear the name and you immediately think of food so genuinely good and so simply scrumptious that your mouth begins to salivate. 

If you love to eat, are interested in the Portland food scene or culinary history, this is one play you don’t want to miss. Portland Center Stage is currently running I Love to Eat, a play that showcases the culinary genius James Beard, at the Gerding Theater through January 24, 2013.  Actor Rob Nagle brilliantly portrays the larger-than-life iconic figure who elevated cooking to an art form (while keeping it completely accessible) in this one-man show about the legendary chef from Portland. Nagle spoonfeeds the audience tidbits about cooking, and the history of cooking. You'll learn that the earliest recipe was one for beer and was written as a poem 6,000 years ago. He'll even demonstrate how to whip up a perfect mayonnaise, and surprisingly produces a batch of what looked like tasty sandwiches for those lucky enough to be sitting in the front row. I Love to Eat is not only a whole lot funnier than I expected, it’s also peppered with generous dashes of warmth, honesty, tenderness, passion and beauty, which all come together to fill you up and leave you truly satiated, as if you'd just consumed a wonderful meal presented by the perfect host.

The play honors the epicure who started it all.

Long before the Food Network was concieved, James Beard was the star of the first-ever TV cooking show on NBC called I Love to Eat (in 1946) where he demonstrated techniques for everyday American cookery. He wasn't a gourmet—in fact he despised the pretentiousness of that word—Beard’s philosophy was “Be simple. Be honest. Fresh ingredients, the best you can find, in season.” It’s a bit ironic that a man who wrote 26 cookbooks would say something like “There are no new recipes, just variations on a theme,” and yet he did. His ground-breaking way of cooking, one that included being true to one’s region, has stood the test of time and inspired so many great chefs.The James Beard Foundation was set up in his memory to provide recipes, education and scholarships that help aspiring culinary students from all walks of life, while preserving his vision of American culinary's heritage and future. 

You don't have to be a chef or a foodie, you just have to love to eat.

I’ve accepted it, as a Jewish girl, I've always known how to eat… let’s face it, food is in my genes. As a skinny child, I think I heard the words “Eat, you’re a growing girl” (insert New York Jewish mother accent here) more than I heard anything else, including "Would it kill you to clean up your room?". My memories of childhood strongly steeped in food, like a good cup of tea. Food was not only the centerpiece of every religious holiday, it was also used as reward for good behavior, punishment for bad and was one of the ways my parent’s showed their love (my mother by cooking our favorite meals and my father who valued sharing culinary experiences with his kids by taking us out to ethnic restaurants so as to expose us to different foods from around the world). Though I clearly understood the foods of my culture, I wouldn't truly understand or appreciate the foods of my region, or seasonal or locally-sourced cooking until I moved to Portland.

Portland gets a new pantry.

Portland is fortunate to have a multitude of seasonal and even some year-round farmer's markets. And with places like New Seasons, finding fresh, local produce and the best ingredients needn't ever be a challenge. But things are about to get even easier and more interesting for Portlanders. Watch for the James Beard Public Market at the west end of the Morrison Bridge to arrive soon. The full-time, year-round, indoor-outdoor market will feature 40-60 permanent vendors who can help you satisfy your cravings for fresh and local cuisine.