The Burning Question: So, How Many Did I Taste in a Year?

I would have never thought a year ago, I’d be where I am today. Honestly, I thought I would have tasted every, or nearly every, Oregon winery. But, here I am publicly admitting I didn’t… some might call it epic fail.

Maybe I’m just saying this because I’m drunk on all the free wine, but as it turns out, I’m glad I failed. I set a goal and I didn’t actually achieve the goal. In the process, I took a u-turn (or a turn into the Twilight Zone) and went a direction I never intended or imagined I’d go, and as it turns out, I’ve quite enjoyed the journey.

I’ll admit, I’ve been beating myself up a bit over the last few months when it became painfully apparent I wouldn’t actually achieve my goal. I kept on going though—touring, sipping, learning, blogging—regardless of what I could or couldn’t do; some might call it integrity, perhaps more accurately would be to say that wine blogging is something of an addiction. As it turns out, because of Sip with Me, I’ve seen, done and tasted more in a year than most people do in a lifetime, and that’s quite an achievement. Sharing the Oregon wine story with the world has been an added bonus, the personal reward for which I could have never anticipated.

The Burning Question

So, everyone’s asking me for the number. I officially visited 196 wineries of the 365 on my master list. That’s only 54% — a big fat fail. To be complately clear—I tasted many more wineries than 196, but didn’t officially visit their tasting rooms, so I can’t actually count them in my quest. A winery a day doesn’t seem so hard, but life, family, money, schedules, winter, navigational challenges, distance, stress and exhaustion were hurdles that jumped out at me and blocked my path more often than I anticipated.

Below is a list of the 10 Best and Worst Things I’ve Discovered About Being a Wine Blogger in the past year.

1. You meet amazing people—from winemakers, wine writers and other wine bloggers to wine lovers who are actually charged up by what you’re doing.
2. Wine samples. I’ve been able to sample a ridiculous amount of wine (reminder, mostly spat not drank).
3. From leisure to educational, wine opportunities and events abound and many doors have opened up.
4. Wine blogging = a great excuse for drinking as much wine as you want.
5. Other people think it’s cool, perhaps even romantic—and as we all know, impressing others is very important.
6. Blogging is worse than being a flasher: You’re expected to expose yourself to the public every day, and to keep upping the ante.
7. Everyone wants to use you… for free. Here post this about me, write about my event, my wine, my book, my product, my restaurant, my event space…
8. You can never leave the job at the office, like your shadow, your blog follows you wherever you go.
9. I finally understand where the word “blog” came from. Its similarity to the word Blob is no accident, and it very well might take over and smother you if you let it (see number 8 and 10).
10. A blog is really just a fancy word for Ball and Chain. You’re attached to it—all the time, you can’t just leave it behind. You’re always thinking about it, worrying about it, dragging it with you in public, in private. The two of you will become inseparable. Trust me, I’m now introduced as “This is Tamara, she’s a wine blogger.”

Okay, so my blog officially turned One. And like a typical one-year-old, my legs are just becoming sturdy beneath me and I am still just beginning to find the strength in my voice. But I’m growing fast, and I’ll be running and yelling before you know it. My journey through wine will continue as I persist in my goal to visit as many Oregon wineries as I can, though this time, without the pressure of any rigid timelines to adhere to. I hope you continue to read Sip with Me, because after all, it’s all about the wine, not about the time. On to bigger and better things!

Cheers!

The McMenamin Brothers are Doing a Whole Lot More Than Just Beer at Edgefield

When you think of Oregon’s wine country, you rarely think of Troutdale. A suburb of Portland, it’s more likely home to truck stops and outlet malls than to a winery. And yet, right there, at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge, lies a wonderful surprise that’s ready to grab you. McMenamins Edgefield Winery is located on the historic Edgefield estate, which was built in 1911 ironically as the Multnomah County Poor Farm and residence for indigent, elderly, disabled and mentally challenged people. Destined for demolition, the complex was purchased in 1990 by micro-brew pioneers Mike and Brian McMenamin, who not only restored the 74-acre parcel, but also breathed a whole new life into the old and tired frame.

With Edgefield’s close proximity to Portland and plethora of activities, I thought my family could make a day of it. We could stroll the grounds, taste some wine and grab a bit of lunch at one of the outdoor pubs. I dragged the husband and son along with me, only to discover minors aren’t allowed in the tasting room area at all. Really? How could you refuse entry to this face? Sending the family off to the park dejected, I resumed what’s becoming painfully habitual, tasting the wine with the company of no one but myself. Thank goodness I’m such good company.

Fortunately Janelle was attending to me in the tasting room, because in addition to her vast knowledge, she was also pretty okay company too. She told me about some of the ghost stories the old building carries. A lot of people have lived and died on these grounds and a lot of people now do a good deal of drinking here—the result is stories are bound to surface. Janelle told me when the McMenamin brothers first started making wine, they had to shovel the grapes through the window, as there wasn’t even a door to the cellar yet. The winemaking team put the wine into kegs instead of barrels, as that’s what they had on hand. Hey brothers, have you seen this article on wine kegs? It could very well be the trend of the next generation and perhaps it’s time to revisit the past to keep moving forwards. Hmmmm.

Edgefield sources fruit from Washington and Oregon to produce a number of wines, which are not available in retail but can be found at various McMenamin’s locations. Look for Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling, sparkling wine, Dry Rosé, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, white Pinot Noir, another Riesling done in an ice wine style and a couple of port-style wines from Zinfandel and Syrah as well.

McMenamin’s Edgefield property is more than just a winery to visit on your way to the scenic Columbia Gorge or to Mt. Hood… it’s a destination. Come stay a while and discover the hotel, spa and soaking pools, brewery, distillery, restaurants, bars, a theater, golf courses, gardens and an intimate and outdoor summer concert venue with some of the hottest names in the music biz. Stop in for a glass and stay for an experience; but keep in mind, make your reservations early. I’ve tried to stay in their hotel on two separate occasions only to find it disappointingly full each time. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Hawks, Eagles and Exceptional Wines

What does it mean when you’re driving and you see three separate coyote roadkill carcasses? My first thought was to call my friend Rachel and ask her if she’s ever tried coyote for dinner. My next and almost simultaneous thought was, “Oh shit, it’s a Three-Coyote-Roadkill Day, that can’t be good. I should probably just turn around and head back home right now!”

Sometimes, while out touring the countryside, often lost but looking for a specific off-the-beaten-path winery, I make a game out of spotting hawks. It goes back to living in the mountains in Colorado where my main source of entertainment on long daily drives to town was catching glimpses of those magnificent birds of prey who made their presence known only when their empty bellies forced them to find the quickest and easiest meal around—carrion (kind of like fast food for animals). That gift (the sight of these impressive birds) while beautiful in and of itself, always seemed to serve a greater purpose, feeling much like an omen, a prophecy of what the day held in store for me. If it was a One Hawk Day, it would probably be a good day, Two Hawk Day—even better. A Bald Eagle Day? Well, who knew what could happen—and so on and so on.

So when I passed not one, not two, but three separate (and fresh) coyote roadkill incidents in the span of 10 miles or so (without seeing a single hawk), I naturally wondered what kind of bad sign this could be. Thoughts of spiritual warnings were flitting like spring birds in and out of my head as I pulled into Kramer Vineyards, where instead of spotting hawks or eagles, I turned my head and saw the familiar twists of my friend Fred Gunton’s handlebar mustache instead and knew all would be just fine.

Kramer Vineyards, located just outside Gaston, was founded by Trudy and Keith Kramer in 1983 after some earlier experimentation with berry wines. On their 20-acre parcel, they’re growing Pinot noir, Chardonnay, Pinot gris, Riesling, Muller Thurgau, Carmine and Muscat with four acres scheduled to plant to Petite Munier and Gruner Veltliner.

When you arrive at Kramer, expect to be greeted by either or both of the resident labs, Cassie and Kosmo, and rest assured, they’ll keep you company while you linger on the delightful deck savoring the estate-driven wines. There’s a lovely wine barrel fountain (with fish), which serves a dual purpose, both providing guests with a little ambiance and also being the town’s largest dog bowl.

Kim Kramer-Kreiger, one of the winemakers, was pouring a selection of 2005 and 2006 vintage wines in their Reserve tasting lineup that were quite memorable. The 2005 Pinot Noir Heritage was a deep red color with a strong nose of red fruit (cherries, plums, raspberries) and a pleasing perfume of roses and a hint of vanilla. This wine opened up slowly, then revealed cherries, strawberries, cola and attention getting spice that’ll keep you coming back for more and make you wish you had a case.

Kramer Vineyards also produces a fantastic Merlot with from grapes from Walla Walla, Washington. The 2007 Merlot was rich and lush in my mouth, layered and complex showing pretty blackberry and plum fruit flavors on top of coffee, chocolate and a seductive finish of clove that’s spicy and sweet at the same time. I wasn’t crazy about their whites, didn’t try the Rosé, but the reds give anyone good reason to visit.

Still not knowing what message those coyote’s were trying to send me, I left Kramer feeling a bit mystical, wondering if there was a story there I’m supposed to tell. I often look to the universe for signs about which direction I should take at a certain crossroad, so I wondered. Am I at a crossroad? Is this a sign that’s meant to detour me? I realize now, in reflection, that I haven’t visited many wineries since this day… perhaps I took that detour after all. I’m a bit unsure of where I am, but I'm pretty sure it’s exactly where I need to be and with hope, my next day will be full of hawks, eagles and exceptional wines! Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Fred Gunton of Entertaining Wine Tours provides amazing personalized and customized tours of the Willamette Valley’s small boutique wineries, large estates and hidden gems. Give him a call to arrange your unique wine country visit today, you’ll be glad you did.

Finding Freedom in Oregon Wine Country Tour

On the day I set out to meet newlywed friends Becky and Zack at Willamette Valley Vineyards, the countryside was both covered and quieted with fog thick as a shroud. Becky arrived ready for Oregon rain fully decked out in her trendy yellow galoshes free to splash in puddles as her heart so desired (missed photo opp number one).

Willamette Valley Vineyards is all about location, location, location. Just south of Salem, and ideally situated directly off I5, its sloping vineyards and watchtower facility regularly lure travelers from their destinations. Founded by visionary Jim Bernau in 1983, Willamette Valley Vineyards lies on a 50-acre estate of red Jory soil, where originally a plum orchard, blackberry bramble and scotch broom blanketing the land. The winery was built in 1989—that and the underground cellar were carved into an ancient volcanic flow (also part of what makes the soil so rich). Now owning more than 300 acres, Willamette Valley Vineyards has grown to become one of Oregon’s largest and most recognizable brands.

The winery offers public tours every day at 1:00 pm, but we were a bit early so we passed on the tour and stayed to taste—though I bet the tour would have been great and really feel like I missed something (if you plan to visit, keep this in mind)! Willamette Valley Vineyards is extremely focused on wine education and they’ve also built a new Wine Center in McMinnville complete with maps and information about the regional soils.

Katie, one of the friendly tasting room staff, greeted us with a pour of their 2006 Griffin Creek Viognier first and then their Chardonnay along with the classic story about how guests always say they don’t like Chardonnay until they try this Chardonnay… hmmmm, haven’t heard that one before. One thing about tasting with friends is you get honest feedback. I was tasting something unpalatable and indefinable in their Chardonnay which my friend Becky accurately termed “funk.” This is why I love tasting with friends. They not only tell you like it is, they even give you the words to accurately describe it—thank you Becky! Clearly not my favorite (or Katie’s, as she actually honestly admitted to us before our tasting – go Katie!!). My preferred wine was their 2007 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir, smooth yet luscious, beginning with a huge nose of black cherry, blackberries and vanilla and following with a mouthful of strawberries, cranberries, smoke, graham and spice.

When it was time to leave, I followed my friends for a change, as they were endowed/armed with internet and GPS. Driving along washboard dirt roads, my Jeep was smiling as she was getting splattered with mud, feeling at home again after years of city driving. Zack was enjoying his German automobile a bit too much and I was struggling to keep up with him, but he eventually led us directly to Ankeny Cellars and the all the glorious surprises in store for us there, thanks Zack.

If you’re ever in the market for a winery “experience” go to Ankeny Cellars. This time of year (winterish), the outdoor ambiance is more imagined, but located next to Ankeny Wildlife Refuge, one could envision sitting on their deck sipping wine while watching predatory and migratory birds flying overhead. In the dead of winter and pre-dawn of spring, it was still just a graveyard of trellis and vine beholding all the promise of the coming season.

Kathy “The Wine Duchess,” as she’s been nicknamed by Ankeny’s winemaker Andy Thomas, graciously poured for us. Planted in 1982 by Joe Olexa (who has four college degrees, none of which have anything to do with growing wine), the vineyard is located on the southernmost slopes of the Salem hills producing roughly 2,000 cases annually all from estate fruit (they also sell grapes to Kings Estate, Redhawk and Brooks). As Kathy poured us the 2006 Hershey’s Red Pinot Noir, she told us how Hershey the dog has sadly been missing since November 2009. A beautiful tribute to Hershey though, and at $15/bottle, this wine with cherry and tobacco flavors was a tremendous value.

Another wine easy on the wallet and of particular interest was the 2006 Ankeny Crimson. With its strong Port nose, this Marechal Foch-Pinot Noir blend was inky and heavy with dark fruit. It was truly an unexpected combination, and in the words of Kathy our host, “it’s like two wines in one” … fascinating, and at $12.00 bottle, not a real risky investment either. I didn’t particularly care for it, but my companions thought it was good. We all have different palates.

Kathy told us we could take a hike—up the hill that is, past the grapevines, goats, cows, llamas and emus, to a one-acre clearing of 85 marked and 12 unmarked graves comprising Cox Pioneer Cemetery. I later learned that the cemetery was founded by Thomas Cox, Salem’s first storekeeper, and that his wife Martha was the first person buried there in 1949. An old barn from 1851 still stands on the property today, which I didn’t see and am still remiss about that lost photo opp too… another time, perhaps when the weather is fairer.

My friends and I parted ways as they continued to explore some regional favorites while I had the sweet wines of Honeywood Winery on my radar. I ventured back into the Salem hills once again GPS-free and flying by my own instincts and the seat of my pants. Quite miraculously, and without so much as a wrong turn, I arrived at Honeywood’s Salem winery.

Honeywood Winery officially opened the day after prohibition ended making it the oldest continually operating winery in Oregon. Founded in 1933 by Ron Honeyman and John Wood, it was originally called Columbia Distilleries (producing brandies, cordials and liquors), and though they objected to the merging of their names, somehow—and naturally—Honeywood stuck.

The winery offered an enormous selection of wines (18 different varietals!), above and beyond the mead and 34 fruit wines they’re famous for. When you’re handed a list with over 50 wines and told to select five, even the experienced taster is overwhelmed. I had no idea what I wanted to taste, I’ve never been there before—I really wanted to taste it all… or most of it. Well, actually I really don’t want to taste 34 different fruit wines (how many ways can you spell berry, ugh?), but five wines really didn’t give me enough of a chance to taste what the winery has to offer either. Of what I did taste, I enjoyed a non-vintage Muller Thurgau tart with lime and a touch of warm anise. As I drove away, I started thinking about those fruit wines and how I bet they’d be great for cooking—sauces, syrups, dressings and marinades of the most memorable kind! Hmmm, great thought… too bad it was moments too late.

I also thought more on tasting in the southern Willamette Valley. In addition to enjoying some great Oregon wines, you won’t break the bank and you’ll also find educational tours, history, hikes and beautiful settings to enjoy it all. I always treasure my drives through wine country; the roads are open and long and even with the windows closed, there’s this sense of having the wind in your hair—I guess it’s a feeling of freedom. I saw a huge Red Tail Hawk on a fence post right off the road, so I pulled over to try and capture his magnificent image on digital film. He sat still while I changed lenses on my camera and he sat still while I slowly and casually approached him. And as soon as I got close enough and brought my camera up towards my face, he was off with the swiftness of a glider, the grace of a ballerina and the sheer power of an airplane. I pouted a bit thinking the day’s theme seemed to be about missed opportunities, but as I saw the hawk flying off into the distance, I realized it was really about the glorious gift of freedom instead. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Oregon Winemaker Tributes Valentine Break-Up With Nefarious Pinot Noir

You could feel the excited energy stirring about Patricia Green Cellar’s winery, warming up the cold facility rarely open to the public. Guests stood poised to taste her illustrious wines and with an odd twist of irony, I found myself alone on Valentine’s Day afternoon—a day typically spent honoring relationships, love and togetherness—celebrating Patricia Green’s 10-year anniversary punctuating her divorce from Torii Mor instead. In homage of the dispassionate occasion (one of the best break-ups on history I might add) Patty released her wickedly sinful, 2008 Nefarious Pinot Noir.

The 2008 Nefarious Pinot Noir ($85) was as beguiling as it was balanced. The wine opened with a soft fruit and lightly floral nose. In my mouth, blackberries gave way to ripe cherries, a touch of spice and playful acids, which swept across and awakened my sleepy tongue (it was barely noon, but already wine-o’clock for so many). The tannins were firm, showcasing the moderate structure, yet supple enough to provide a lush, velvety feel despite the wine’s youth. It was a nice wine, yes. But was it worthy of its lofty $85.00 price tag? Of that I’m not so sure.

I liked the wine and I loved the name, but for me, it was still missing a key component—a good label to tie it all together. It might seem trite to you, but being a graphic designer and marketing specialist, what it all boiled down to was that I was confused when I looked at the bottle. The wine’s called Nefarious, which means infamous by way of being extremely wicked, but the front label shows a soft, sweet and simple muted oil painting of Patty with her nose in a wine glass—is that supposed to signify nefarious? The label design felt like an afterthought, even more so when I looked up and saw the painting larger than life on the cellar wall… a bit incongruous and disappointing if you ask me. To come up with such a great concept and then fall through on the visuals and packaging felt like an enormous waste of a tremendous opportunity and my mouth was (and still is) literally salivating over the potential of such a campaign. Moving on and off my soapbox now.

The 2008 Notorious Pinot Noir ($70) showed similar themes of sweet and spice as Nefarious, but with more intensity and greater depth. Black fruit and plums immediately introduced themselves to me, while tart cranberries, truffles and a captivating white pepper finish snuck up from behind and made their presence known. I preferred Notorious to Nefarious and actually thought it seemed more wicked, more sinful and more decadent with its seductively ripe fruit and sneaky yet showy spice.

One of my favorite wines of the day was the 2008 Estate Old Vine Pinot Noir ($40) with wild berries, violets, great acid, subtle minerality and a brilliant, long finish. A showstopper in my book; the wine possessed tannins substantial enough to benefit from a little age, but to enjoy a bottle now would certainly be no crime. Patricia Green’s wines are consistently lovely and, if I had generous disposable income, I probably would have been right there alongside the others loading cases into my expensive car to take home and age in the temperature-controlled cellar. But, sadly I don’t… so feeling a bit like I was on The Walk of Shame, I left the winery escorting a lonely bottle of Old Vine Pinot Noir back to my practical Jeep instead… making my own small tribute to Patricia Green and the strength it took her to walk away.

We all know breaking up is hard to do. And in the professional setting, it can be that much harder. Patty’s tumultuous relationship with Torii Mor is one example of some of the unseen and unspoken challenges of working in the “glamorous” wine industry, and how ultimately to make it work to your benefit. Wineries are often small Mom-and-Pop shops, run by very passionate people (often families) with little room and even less stability for outsiders. People can easily become commodities and are far too easily replaceable (the line goes clear around the block, believe me!). Personally and unfortunately, I’ve been witness to and victim of some very unethical treatment in this industry and it’s probably for that reason I hold Patty in even higher regard, admiring her for taking a risk, believing in herself as a winemaker and stepping out on her own—may she serve as a model to us all. As if a message from the wine goddess, I happened to notice the bumper sticker on the car next to me— “Nullum Vinum Flaccidum” —and took note (and a photo) as I reminder to look up later. I learned the expression is Latin for “No Wimpy Wines;” almost poetically appropriate, no? Here’s to strength! Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Sip with Me Goes Doppelganger a la Facebook

This week is Celebrity Doppelganger Week on Facebook. If you don’t know what that is, it’s this sorta creepy and ridiculous (but somehow fun) trend where you post a picture of your celebrity look-alike as your profile picture. For me, growing up in “The Valley” in the 80’s, it was always Martha Quinn from MTV (ha ha). So even though I hated being associated with her as a teenager, she looks quite cute to me from this side of 40, and at this moment, her photo is my Facebook profile picture.

Anyway, this Facebook development got me thinking about how in one of my prior posts, I refer to Archery Summit as the Princess Diana of wineries. Well, struggling to write my post this week, (and struggling with my project’s repetitiveness quite honestly) I’ve decided to go against my tradition, break my mold… do something completely different and perhaps even a bit off the wall. Today, there will be no tried and true format of honest winery experience, with details about the wines, yada yada yada. Sip with Me dedicates this blogpost to Facebook’s Celebrity Doppelganger Week! My sincere apologies if I offend anyone or if a winery feels glossed over, that's not my intent. Enjoyment is my only goal and my experience at each of these establishments was memorable and recommendable.

Namaste Vineyards = Woody Harrelson

A little bit hippy trippy, but a serious actor nonetheless.

Chateau Bianca = Minnie Driver

Is she English or is she American?

Van Duzer Vineyards - Daryl Hannah

 

One look at the Zephra – Goddess of Wind on their label and you get it.

Eola Hills Winery = Susan Lucci

 

This soap star won’t be invited to the Oscars,

but she has class and staying power.

Cherry Hill Winery = Lassie

Once again, the label speaks volumes so I don’t have to. This one honors their very own 

Daisy the dog (and notice the wineglass inpression on her forehead—it's genuine!).

In the same spirit of silly alter-egoness: On my way home from wine tasting today, I got behind a car whose license plate read “Mulva,” and referring back to one of the best Seinfeld episodes ever, I couldn’t help but wonder if her name was really Dolores (it rhymes with a female body part), and had a little giggle—I hope you do too. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Your Dundee Hills Daycation

With what already felt like a full day of wine tasting behind me and a full day yet in front of me, I pulled out of Bella Vida, crossed the road into Erath Winery’s drive and made my way past acres of nearly ripe grapes surprisingly not used for Erath, but Argyle wines instead.

When I pulled into the packed parking let, feeling blessed to have found a space, I wondered what all the buzz was about. I passed by families enjoying lunches on the busy patio overlooking the vineyards and entered Erath’s tasting room; which was even busier than the parking lot. Slightly intimidated by the large crowd at the small bar, I took a moment to digest the scene before elbowing my way in. Having never visited Erath before, but knowing they were bought out by the giant Chateaux St. Michelle, I admit I had certain and fairly high expectations. The winery, as it turned out, was obviously and thankfully every bit as charmingly rustic as it ever was. The cedar-lined room with dark wood floors felt much like a mountain cabin, blending seamlessly with the landscape. Instead of stuffed game heads mounted on the walls though, I observed wine bottles (probably killed by the power of a good night) and slightly less exciting but ever so useful…marketing information, woohoo!

As I stood there. completely engrossed with my surroundings, trays of delicious food kept passing me by, teasing and tempting me before disappearing into a room marked “Private Party”. By this time, I had realized the private party was Erath’s Wine Society’s pick-up party, which must equate to feeling like family, because they acted as if they owned the place (as cellar club members often do). I’ll tell you what though, I was wishing for the key to that golden door and I wanted to be a part of that cellar club as I was drooling over the trays of appetizing food vanishing before my eyes—you would have too.

Felice was behind the bar pouring me wines and a little bit of history, when she wasn’t tending to the demanding cellar club members. Of the whites, I especially enjoyed the 2008 Rose Pinot Gris from Knights Gambit Vineyard. Strawberry rhubarb and vanilla hit my nose and if I closed my eyes I could have been smelling a hot pie cooling on an open windowsill. The complex mouth was zesty with hints of watermelon, citrus, berry and spice … oh so nice—but remember, it’s only available at the winery! Another palate pleaser (though not very budget-friendly) was the 2006 Leland Vineyards Pinot Noir. Like dark chocolate covered cherries in a glass, the wine was fruity, rich, sensual and exciting. A little put off by the big crowd though, I choose to drink and run—but with good wines, great views and a lovely place to take it all in, I will undoubtedly return (next year).

Back in my car and headed for Lange and Torii Mor, I passed Crumbled Rock Winery (which had been closed on my way up the hill) and quickly pulled in to park. With no wine tasting fees, but only one wine—one vintage to enjoy, it’s most certainly worth a stop on your wine country daycation. A local couple was enjoying some quiet time on the romantic deck with a bottle of their Pinot Noir after attending the Erath wine club pick-up party and I couldn’t help but feel a little bit like I was intruding on their moment. The guests were really taken aback when I inadvertently uttered out loud, “this wine is just too good not to drink” and an explanation of my journey ensued.

The family-owned, eight-acre Pinot Noir vineyard had been selling grapes since the late eighties, but finally decided to go commercial in 2007, built a winery and hopes the rest will be history. I wish them much success on their winemaking adventure. On my way out of the winery, I noticed a cute little brightly painted stand offering free flowers and poems to passersby … as if their wine wasn’t beautiful enough.

On to Torii Mor, which I had somehow passed by a dozen times without ever stopping before. Driving onto the property was something like driving into a Japanese garden in the shade. I walked up to the pagoda-feeling Haiku House and though definitely original (as far as tasting rooms go), and certainly peaceful and serene, I have to admit that once inside, I felt a bit like I was in an acupuncturist’s waiting room. The clever three-sided bar delivered good wine to happy guests though. And a lover of a good Pinot Blanc, Torii Mor’s was quite a pleasure with fragrances of white flowers and pineapple and a wide mouthful of baked apples, lemon curd and spice. The finish layed on my tongue like a spoonful of crème brulee, but with a little more kick.  I enjoyed my Pinots outside in the zen-like garden and on the way back in laughed at the sign on the door from Sasquatch Books denoting it as one of “The Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest”— I could see that.

My last stop on a long and wine-filled day in the Dundee Hills, was the prestigious Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards. The grounds were thoroughly maintained, though the grasses were growing so high, they obscured the what-would-have-been magnificent views from the patio. The welcoming tasting room boasted two large wood bars to disperse the masses and the simple yet attractive space was large enough for a crowd but still provided a homey and cozy feel in an old-world meets modern kind of way (ie: cool concrete floors trimmed in warm, weathered wood accents). Jesse and his father Don Lange make the wines, and apparently avid fly fishermen; many of the labels are decorated with intricately detailed flies.

The 2007 Chardonnay from Freedom Hill Vineyard immediately demanded my attention with vibrant tastes, rich textures and balanced acid—a single-vineyard wine that brilliantly reflected both the vintage and the terrior.

Pulling out of my seventh winery of the day, with my internal compass needle finally pointing in the direction of home, my lesson was staring me down like a dirty, western gunfighter. If you’re not on a mission like me, and are really just out to enjoy the wineries, limit your number of tasting room visits to just three. More than that and it just all starts to blend together and a cuvee of a day is not the goal. Take your time, savor the wine and drink in your surroundings…what you’ll produce is a lasting memory. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Chasing Pinot and Pickles

Thoughts gathered; Chehalem wine adventure resumes.

After visiting with Keith Lawton, I was seriously pondering the state of the industry, thinking the obvious I guess. Is this just a symptom of an industry that’s perhaps become a bit bloated? Can 400 or more wineries in one state truly thrive or better yet survive or are some going to just fade away?

The magnificent landscape, with rolling green vineyards in contrast to the golden grasses quickly captured my attention again as I pulled into Arborbrook Vineyards. Set in a remodeled old red barn, with a small playground out back, Arborbrook has a very casual, country-like and family-friendly feel.

A cordial cat was in the entrance basking in the sun and I couldn’t help but pet her as I went in. The crowded tasting room had a cheerful atmosphere, with Proprietor Mary Hanson behind the bar telling funny stories about a tasting room regular. Her story was about a guest who made such a mess with the wine one day, the next time he came in, she had a sippy cup for him with his name on it. He was actually there and produced said sippy for the roaring crowd to see. The tasting room walls were adorned with vivid paintings by local artists and Fanucchi Oils was there featuring special tastings of their oils, vinegars, tapenades and sauces (super fun).

Arborbrook was showing two Pinot Gris, a stainless steel 2008 from Croft Vineyard, and my preferred, the ’08 ANA Vineyard Pinot Gris—Alsatian-style, barrel-aged in French oak with a soft mouth, pretty straw color and vivid fruit and spice. There were several nice Pinot Noirs, but I was especially fond of the ’07 Vintner’s Select Pinot Noir. With firm tannins, I’d expect to lay this wine down for at least a couple of years, but the flavors of dark mountain berries (think blueberries, blackberries, huckleberries), cola and something else I couldn’t quite wrap my nose around (was it incense?) were already coming through with both strength and finesse. It will be interesting to watch this winery develop.

Back in my car, but only for a moment, I drove down the road, past meticulously maintained vineyard rows and into Adelsheim Vineyards. One of Oregon’s founding wineries, visiting here helps shape your sense and understanding of the state’s winemaking history. After walking through the grand foyer, reminiscent of a castle lighthouse or guard tower, I was greeted by the large and impressive tasting room with an enormous bar that seemed to flow through the room like a gentle wave and could comfortably accommodate a substantial number of guests.

Adelsheim’s tasting room is classy without being stuffy, large with plenty of room to move, yet still somehow cozy—an almost impossible combination of sophisticated and relaxed at the same time. The staff was terrific; this adorable little cellar hand named Alex (who impressed me with his ability to recall names and technical information about the wines, things I struggle with) poured for me. The whites were very acid-driven and clean (no oak) and would pair beautifully with food, while the Pinots were very fruit-driven and balanced. I ran into the guests I had seen earlier at Ponzi, and since one was a builder and he noticed I was admiring the cherry wood floors, our conversations turned from food and wine to architecture. I had to laugh out loud when he told me “If you like the floors, you have to see the bathrooms!” If he was that excited about them, I figured I’d better check them out. They were nice, with stone walls and cool, modern concrete countertops, but I was a bit confused. Adelsheim has an absolutely amazing patio overlooking acres of vineyards, a majestic tasting room with even lovelier wines, and this guy’s telling me to check out the john. I guess one never knows what’s going to strike someone else’s fancy.

I decided to end the day at Utopia Vineyards, a very small and virtually unknown producer. With just over 10 acres planted to 11 different clones of Pinot Noir, Daniel Warnshuis grows, produces and bottles a mere 550 cases per vintage. The cannons were firing regularly in the vineyards that afternoon as the previous day’s rain had brought with it tons of grape-grubbing starlings.

Daniel was busy talking with another young couple about scheduling them for a private tasting and tour of the vineyard with their friends while William the dog lounged comfortably at my feet. Daniel was tasting me through two vintages of his estate Pinot Noir (2006 and 2007 — which I think would have been more interesting to taste side by side), as well as a Malbec and Cab Franc he produced under a former label in California. Both Pinots were big and well structured, with lots of mingling fruit and oak. Later on at home, I told my husband about my new boyfriend, a really cute boy who was following me around at Utopia who lured in with his big brown eyes for some heavy petting. Good boy William!

Since embarking on this incredible journey, some interesting thoughts have started brewing in my mind. I’ve been wondering what it is that makes one tasting room stand out against the other? Because to me, even though it probably should be primarily about the wine, there’s really so much more to the big picture. All day long, I kept thinking about the Freudian expression “Sometimes a pickle is more than just a pickle” and applying the expression to tasting rooms. Sometimes a tasting room is more than just a tasting room … it can be so much deeper, so much more than just a place to sip wine. Every so often, there’s a winery that goes the extra mile or offers you an experience beyond just tasting their wines—some that are memorable and will stick with you for a lifetime; let’s call it the x-factor; the specific thing which makes that winery unique. At Marchesi, it was the true Italian hospitality and proscuitto machine, at De Ponte it’s the view and homey feel, at Cooper Mountain it’s the organic and biodynamic element, at Ponzi it’s the history and bocce ball, at Adelsheim it's the technical information and at Utopia, it was William the dog. What I’ve discovered, my big lesson for the day, is that every once in a while, in addition to an amazing bottle of wine, you can also bring home an uncommon and one-of-a-kind memory, and in a sea of tasting rooms, perhaps it’s the places providing the memories that are the ones we can expect to stick around. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Note to Self: Next time spit and/or dump

I set out on my inaugural wine tasting adventure with an open mind, an open heart and a big fat picnic lunch. My friend Kati was supposed to be my date, but sadly she wasn’t feeling up for it. My husband Hunter (always ready to enjoy my industry perks) and soon-to-be-winemaker son Shayden were eager to step in and accompany me though, and off we drove down the busy and heavily trafficked Highway 99 corridor towards the land of Pinot.

I had already decided I wanted to visit De Ponte Cellars (an old favorite), the two Domaines and then follow my divining rod to where ever else it led me.After somehow missing the turn-off to the Dundee Hills, and fending off the evil stares from Hunter, we got back on track and soon pulled into the rustic and beautiful De Ponte Cellars. I like De Ponte because they don’t take themselves too seriously. You’re greeted by a humorous doggy metal sculpture and if you’re lucky, sometimes the winery’s real dogs will come around to give you a lick hello.

The place was an immediate hit for Shayden, as he was thrilled by the old wine barrel wagon he found he could climb in and play on. Did I mention Shayden’s two-and-a-half years old? Not exactly an age that enjoys hanging around in tasting rooms, but I’m working on it.

Practically dragging him away from the cute car with the promise of more wagon playtime in a bit, we finally entered the large tasting room and were immediately struck by the expanse of the long oak bar practically running the length of the building. Though crowded it wasn’t, the room can certainly accommodate one, and while it was big, perhaps the low ceilings lent a more comfortable feel (much like being in someone’s home basement party room). The few guests there were impeccably dressed with expensive logo purses placed prominently on the bar. With classic rock tunes playing on the hi-fi, Shayden swirled his water while Hunter and I tasted the 2008 Estate Melon (not my favorite white and not a real good representation of the winery, IMHO) and then four gorgeous Pinot noirs, each one surprisingly more luscious and delicious than the last. Time seemed to melt away with each sip of our wines while we ate our lunch at their relatively secluded picnic spot complete with picturesque views of the vineyards and Willamette Valley. De Ponte never fails to satisfy.

Our bellies full, we set out for the first of the big Domaines; Domaine Serene (DS). Walking the sprawling yet meticulously planted grounds, I felt as if I’d stepped into an Old World Mediterranean scene. Though I had visited many nearby wineries, I actually had never been to DS before (if you really want to know, I think their wines are greatly overpriced and overvalued). The word opulent doesn’t even describe the details of the tasting room. The marble floors are gorgeous, the massive oak ceilings with iron chandeliers suspended from them are impressive to say the least, the huge windows draped with rich, heavy brocade curtains and the smooth slab granite bar were all a part of a very carefully appointed room, but I found it a bit overwhelming. I was starting to feel like Dorothy in Oz – “Hunter, I don’t think we’re in Oregon anymore”, more like Napa Valley, CA. We moved around the room to the three pouring stations in an interesting and almost choreographed fashion, and were met at each by friendly and knowledgeable staff. The pretentious, well-dressed crowd included a few suit jackets and again, lots of logo flashing reminiscent of a ritzy gang I was obviously not a part of. I enjoyed a glass of 2006 Cote Sud Chardonnay that had nice citrus notes and great acids, but once again felt the Pinot Noirs lacked a certain amount of integrity, trying to be something they’re not.

Next stop, Domaine Drouhin (DDO). By this time, I lost my companions to naptime, so I was on my own for the remainder of the day. DDO was very busy, it took a long time to be greeted and the service continued to be slow and spotty. There was a large party of fancy-dressed girls out for a bachelorette party, another private party tasting downstairs, people hanging on the deck and a large gathering at the oak and travertine bar. The large, elegant room had high ceilings and stone floors with fairly unadorned walls that made sounds and voices carry. At one point it got very quiet (except the soft jazz piping through) and when I looked around, I saw everyone sniffing wine in unison, their noses rooting around the Riedel glasses — it looked like a bad wine tasting movie and I thought it was so very humorous (but I had already drank a good deal of wine, so it was probably just me). I’m always impressed by DDO’s pioneering gravity winemaking facility and how it’s visible from the tasting room. Since the staff wasn’t very informative, I did my part to share this information with the other guests that seemed to be following me around from tasting room to tasting room, interested both in what I was doing and where I was going next. I loved the 2007 Chardonnay Arthur, but the highlight had to be their ‘99 Pinot Noir. I really appreciate when a winery shows older wines, most average people don’t regularly get the chance to experience them and their beauty. This ‘99 was showing very well with a smoky, yet perfumey nose, mushrooms and chocolate on the palate and lots of black fruit still very present. The long, silky finish stayed with me well after I left.

With the two biggies down, it was time to relax and let my hair down. I went to White Rose next, where I knew I'd be comfortable — partly because I know the GM (I used to work with him at Ponzi Vineyards) but more so because White Rose, in all its splendor, is actually very unassuming.

The grounds and view are spectacular, as is the cellar—but the star is their wines, handcrafted and very limited production (that’s where they put their focus). The winemaker’s brother speaks passionately about the wines from behind a meager table (as opposed to the immense bars at their more affluent neighbors), with the wine bottles for sale placed casually beside him. Each bottling is named after the owner’s children and the creative dragon label I learned is from The Paper Bag Princess by Robert Munsch (a great story and so not-your-typical-fairytale-ending-princess-story that I love and recommend reading it even if you don’t have kids). The party girls I saw at DDO were hanging out on the patio … so busy fussing with themselves, did they even notice the panoramic vistas unfolding as the fog slowly burned off? I came away with a bottle of their signature Pinot, the 2007 Quiotee’s Lair, but was ever so tempted by the $75 bottle of 2006 Soverae Pinot Noir, which was very special, but beyond my budget for the day.

Somehow, I found my way to the Treehouse tasting room at Vista Hills Vineyard & Winery. Exceptional and unique, the tasting room is nestled in the canopy of old Douglas fir and White Oak trees overlooking the vineyards and countryside. The cabin-like building with large deck is cozy and comfortable with a mountainesque feel; yet there’s a simple, clean elegance at the same time. The highly knowledgeable and extremely friendly staff poured me a lovely and lively Pinot Gris and some well balanced, good structured Pinots (of which I selected the 2006 Treehouse to take home). The winery is family-owned and generous philanthropists, donating 10% of their wine sales to the Clint Foundation, which provides grants to students working their way through college.

My last stop, which was brief, was at Winter’s Hill Vineyard’s tasting room. Located in a small and unpretentious garage, the wines were gorgeous, but as it was late in the day and I was a bit burned out, I unfortunately didn’t take very extensive notes on them. I must confess however, the notes I did take on the 2005 Pinot Noir Reserve were quite poetic … one word actually, "Yummo" (the bitter irony is that I hate that expression and I’m not the biggest fan of Rachel Ray either, but that’s another story and another topic)! Six wineries left me practically speechless; actually speechless would have been better than “yummo”. Hopefully I didn’t say it out loud!!

All in all, the experience was great, the wineries were splendid, I brought home a few memorable bottles to add to the cellar and I learned a very valuable lesson. Spit and/or dump to avoid slipping into my embarrassing Rachel Ray persona. I want to thank all my hosts for their generous hospitality! Until we sip again…

Cheers!