Boutique Wineries Offer Rare Tasting Opportunites

Like the “Shot Heard Round the World,” Memorial Day triggers the start of the wine tasting season and since many of the smaller boutique wineries are only open two holiday weekends a year, it was also the shot that signaled me to get out and taste as many of them as I could.

Quailhurst Vineyard Estate

Founded by: Dr. Marvin Hausman

Winemaker: Joe Dobbes

Vineyard: 35 acres planted in 1998 on 75-year-old estate

Quailhurst has a stunning location, perched high atop Parrot Mountain in Sherwood and makes exceptional estate wines of high quality and character. The grounds of their unique estate also feature riding arenas, stables and pastures to support their horse breeding and Dressage center located adjacent to the grape vines.

Hawks View Cellars

Founded by: Jack and Willie Kemp

Winemaker: Ryan Harms

Vineyard: 130-acre estate, 45 acres since in 1991

Hawks View Cellars is a relative newcomer on the scene and making a huge splash with their finely crafted wines, comfortable tasting room, stunning five-peak view and their proximity to Portland.

Vercingetorix (VX)

Founded by: the Hall family in1959—owned and operated by the grown children since 2009

Winemaker: Laurant Montelieu and Jason Silva

Vineyard: 11 acres planted on the 210-acre riverfront farm

 

No, it’s not the name of a newly discovered dinosaur but rather a fun and unpretentious winery tucked away in Newberg next to the Willamette River. Vercingetorix is named for a Gallic hero who is recognized for saving Burgundy’s Pinot noir from Roman invasion, VX converted an old apple orchard to vineyards and is producing grapes using a Geneva double curtain trellis (Oregon growers typically use the Scott Henry trellis system).

Durant Vineyards at Red Ridge Farms

Founded by:Ken and Penny Durant in 1973

Winemaker:Partner with different winemakers who their purchase grapes such as Jesse Lange and Dean Fisher.

Vineyard:Over 60 acres of some of the oldest vineyards in the Red Hills of Dundee.1

Durant Vineyards sells their fruit to 73 premium wine producers in the Valley, finally creating their first estate wines in 2003. Their tasting room is located on Red Ridge Farms, which also showcases the family’s herb and specialty plant nursery, a unique gift shop, intimate Bed and Breakfast and Yamhill Valley’s first olive oil pressing facility. Cottonwood Winery and Cancilla Cellars were also pouring wines there for the holiday weekend.

Le Cadeau/Aubichon

Founded by:Tim and Deb Mortimer in 1997

Le Cadeau Winemaker:Different for each bottling

Aubichon Winemaker:Jim Sanders

Vineyard:: 28-acres of rocky soil planed in 1999

Aubichon purchases all their fruit to produce their acid-driven wines while Le Cadeau uses only estate fruit from their Parrot Mountain vineyard located on basalt and volcanic soil. Le Cadeau wines are each made by a different winemaker and each show an honest commonality of vineyard.

Ken Wright Cellars

Founded by:Karen and Ken Wright in 1994

Winemaker:Ken Wright

Vineyard:55 acres located throughout the Willamette Valley

Ken Wright has the distinction as being known for being one of Oregon’s first winemakers to craft single vineyard designates. I have to put this out there too, though they very nicely let me in at closing time, they were also the first tasting room I’ve visited to charge me a fee. And though I at first balked at the $20 charge (I don’t drink, I don’t eat, I don’t linger and I’m going to write about them), but Ken Wright was so damn charming, in the end I nearly forgot I paid them money to blog about them.

Carlton Cellars

Founded by: Dave Grooters and Robin Russell in 2001

Winemaker: Dave Grooters

Vineyard: 22 acres in the Yamhill Carlton AVA planted in 2003

Carlton Cellars opened their modest tasting room in 2007, debuted its first commercial bottling in 2007, and as a tribute to the ocean, which so profoundly influences and defines its wine, they’ve named each of their wines for a special place along the Oregon coast. Saturday, June 19th kicks off their not-to-be-missed Summer Vineyard Lunch Tour where for $35 (or $90 for all three), you’ll enjoy a lunch feast and tour of the vineyard at three integral times of the growing season (bloom, lag and veraison).

Raptor Ridge Winery

Founded by: Scott and Annie Shull in 1995

Winemaker: Scott Shull

Vineyard: 18 acres on the northeast side of the Chehalem Mountains

Raptor Ridge (who placed third in my recent tasting of Oregon Rosés) acquired its name from all the birds of prey that share the winery’s 27-acre estate. Their vineyard is actually named Tuscowallame, which is an indigenous word meaning “place where the owls dwell.” Taking their names seriously, instead of naming the vineyard blocks after family members (like so many wineries do), each block is beautifully named to honor the foreman who planted it (Adalfo, Macario and Dustin).


Tasting so many wineries in a day left little time for detailed tasting notes, so while I haven’t highlighted the standout wines like I typically do, I would like to mention my favorite wines of the day came from Quailhurst (though the horse stable tasting room added to the overall experience, the smell unfortunately didn’t contribute to the bouquet of the wine at all), Durant Vineyards and Ken Wright.

Inspiration for the photo collages comes from fellow blogger Josh, whose blog PDXploration details cool fun and unique things to do in this fair city and always features gorgeous photography. You can find him on Twitter: @PDXploration.

The whirlwind weekend wrap-up unbelievably continues next with Anam Cara, Laura Volkman, Natalies, Estate, Anderson Family Vineyards, Monks Gate, Ghost Hill Cellars, Stag Hollow and Sejourne. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Lose Yourself In Time at Helvetia Vineyards

If you’re looking for a break from fast-paced city life and seeking some long lost country-style hospitality, you’re sure to find it at Helvetia Vineyards. Established in 1982 by one of the friendliest men in Oregon’s wine industry, John Platt will guide you through his wines, talk to you about the farm’s rich history and, if you’re lucky, he might even hop in your car for a ride up the road to give you a tour of his winery.

Founders John Platt and Elizabeth Furse Elizabeth planted grapes in 1982 originally to supply home winemakers and actually hadn't considered making wine at the time. Their intent was to grow something to satisfy the requirements of farm tax deferral, and wine grapes seemed the likeliest of crops. Later, when these very same home winemakers started winning awards, John's interest in winemaking was sparked. 1996 brought about their first commercial crush and they’re now producing 1,300 cases of estate wines from their 10-acre vineyard located on a southwestern face of the West Hills at the northern tip of the Tualatin Valley (which is actually still within the Willamette Valley).

Winery mascots Jake and Coco are the real greeting committee at Helvetia Vineyards, and even on a spring day that was as soggy as breakfast cereal after sitting in milk a bit too long, who could possibly resist sloppy, wet kisses from a face like this?

The winery’s visitor center is located within a 100-year-old historic farmhouse which now features a display of some of the original winemaking equipment found in the cellar as well as hammocks, horseshoes, croquet and picnic tables to help make your country retreat complete.

While admiring an old framed photo of the original residence, John relayed the story of how this photo was actually a postcard sent to the owner, Jacob Yungen, from his daughter Elise expressing her troubled situation as a single mother while trying to raise her young children. She had mailed it from Reedville, Oregon with a message scrawled on the back asking for help. Looking at that ancient photo of Jacob sitting on the front deck while his daughter Elise gathers her children at the back door moved me in a way which seemed to send me whirling backwards through time. I wondered who took that photo. I could imagine how drastically different her life must have been—to be a woman in 1900. Can’t you just feel their struggle? As I looked into their faces, I tried to understand their relationship. Why is Jacob sitting on the front deck while his daughter and grandchildren stand out back? The house’s air was thick with stories of labor and love, of people and time and I wanted so much to just breathe them all in; yet their secrets remained as elusive as the apparitions themselves. John brought me back to the current century by offering me a tasting of his wines.

Miss Kitty (the resident floozy) affectionately swirled around my feet as I swirled my wine in my glass. She kept me company while I enjoyed a 2007 Chardonnay that was a bit like that tropical vacation I so badly need. With notes of banana cream pie and kefir lime adding a nice twist of tartness, it was like eating dessert while on that tropical vacation… double bonus, all for the value price of $13.00. Ka-ching!

The 2008 Pinot Noir had just been bottled three weeks prior to my visit, and though very young and fruity (put that baby to bed), amidst the sweet strawberries and tart cranberry smell, I detected a bit of barrel funk that’s sure to add elements of intrigue as this wine develops. John offered me a bit of smoked salmon, which brought out a lovely earthy component in the wine, similar to freshly dug truffles. He said he gears his wines towards smoked salmon, and I don’t know how he does it, but he’s right, the combination was very complementary.

John didn’t have to twist my arm to convince me to drive with him over to the nearby winery for some barrel tasting. Jake and Cocoa apparently didn’t want to miss the opportunity either as they ran alongside the car trying to keep up. I thought I lost them, but apparently, they knew just where we were headed and caught up with us before I could even park the car. The wines in the barrel room were listening to some Jazz a la NPR’s Prairie Home Companion (so that’s where that funk in the wine came from) while we tasted an 09 Pinot Noir already developing some nice complexity showing similar moist earth and truffle notes as the 2008 vintage. Sensing I must be a rosé fan, John went to great lengths to siphon off some 2009 Pinot Noir Rosé for me from the Rose Vineyard, a one-and-a-half acre block that doesn’t ripen up quite like the rest. The wine was vibrant and teased my nose with smells of comforting memories of childhood—bubble gum, watermelon and strawberries. Like a fountain of youth, too bad it wasn’t bottled yet.

I dropped John back off at the old Victorian estate and it occurred to me how history has a way of shaping perspective, molding thoughts on your own reality like a lump of clay. Looking up at the windows of the house, envisioning whose faces have looked out of that glass over the years, it occurred to me how closely connected we all are no matter how much time separates us. When Jacob Yungen wrote home about his new life in Oregon, he said, "The North wind howls here every time it frosts. However, the grapes often ripen full and wonderful." So, the house is still here, there are just new faces peering out the windows. The grapes are still ripening, wine is still being produced and families are still gathering on the farmhouse estate where time has a way of just slowing down so much, it’s almost as if it never existed. I guess things haven’t really changed all that much. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

A World Beyond Saké Bombs… Finally!

“Kanpai,” we shout a little too loudly as we joyously clink our baby teacups together shooting the warm yet slightly bitter rice wine quickly to the backs of our throats and down to our waiting and eager bellies. Another,” Kanpai”, followed by the token glass clink, but this time, the mini teacups full of steaming hot wine are dropped into our ice cold, tall glasses of Japanese beer (we called it a Saké Bomb), which we guzzle as if we’d been wandering a dry, dusty desert for days, our mouths parched with thirst. Our livers swollen with alcohol, we always added a bit of rice, seaweed and fish to the mix, just to keep things from sounding liked a badly dubbed Kung-fu movie where nothing moves in synchrony, and ultimately, to keep things down. Yes, those were my early experiences of rice wine—gloriously long high school and college meals of cheap sushi, saké and beer that typically got a bit out of control and were never much about food or wine appreciation. Such is high school and college, I guess.

Flash forward nearly 20 years and I’ll be honest, I haven’t consumed much saké since those earlier and more reckless days. Recently however, my good friend and winemaker for Anne Amie Vineyards recommended I try saké and encouraged me to specifically visit Saké One in Hillsboro to taste both their wines and their imported specials. So as a part of my quest and journey, I set out for the education of a lifetime; Tony from Saké One gave me my first and very valuable lessons.

Lesson #1: Drink your saké room temperature to slightly chilled. The piping hot saké served in sushi restaurants is served that way to mask the flaws, making it more palatable.

I then learned Lesson #2: Current leading experts agree, using a wine glass instead of a thimble is the preferable way to imbibe. Men, you’ll be pleased to know you don’t need to feel like you’re at a child’s tea party with your dainty pinky finger hanging out in Nowhereland. Wrap all of your manly digits around a real glass and enjoy. Saké stemware is available for sale and if you’re hosting a sushi party, it can add that fun level of authenticity (kind of like chopsticks verses silverware, I suppose), but it’s not necessary and any old white wine glass will really do.

Tony went on to teach me how saké is made with only four ingredients: water, rice, yeast and Koji-kin (a mold which helps convert the rice into fermentable sugars). Saké One uses domestic U.S. rice with Japanese yeast, while more traditional Japanese sakés use different varieties of rice to produce different flavor profiles. The water is another key component, brewers look for both purity and mineral content to impact sake’s flavor.

Although called rice wine, it’s probably a closer relative to the beer family since it’s made from fermented grains instead of fruit. And like beer, saké is best when consumed fresh, while in its youth, as opposed to being aged.

Saké One offers a food pairing flight, which I highly recommend. Similar to wine (and beer), the saké tasting experience is enhanced by thoughtful and complemented food pairings. I personally tasted through their portfolio without the food, but I wonder if my experience might have been different if I had tasted the different sakés with their suggested combinations. Would I have come away a saké convert?

Sake One is the only American owned sakery in the world. Their wines are bottled in eco-friendly glass, with bamboo labels, making them an excellent example of the Oregon wine industry’s commitment to being a part of the environmental solution. In addition to their Ginjo Junmai (pure rice) sakes, they also make fun infused sakes of Asian pear, coconut lemongrass, raspberry and plum. They encourage fans to experiment with their elixirs, and invented a series of Sakétinis adding a whole new dimension to mixology.

If you’re ever anywhere in the vicinity of Hillsboro, Oregon, I emphatically encourage you to visit Saké One —even if you don’t like saké… and sadly and admittedly, I don’t even though I enjoyed every minute of my stay. So, after visiting and tasting the real goods, I can wholeheartedly say, sorry Thomas, I’ve still yet to acquire a taste for rice wine. I did equate it to what it would be like drinking a real, handcrafted ale for the first time though—discovering there was a world beyond MGD—and I will certainly try saké again. With sakery tours daily, Saké One is a must-visit… look forward to both an education and an experience you won’t soon forget. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

For more information about Saké and a great read (except for the wisecrack comment about wine being made by monkeys) check out Joe's SixPack.

Back on the Wine Road Again

Okay, I’ve taken an ever-so-slight detour from tasting room reviews to discuss the unexpected project consequences on my life, but I’m back on track now and ready to report. Hope you can forgive my self-indulgence.

After leaving Daedalus Cellars, with a greater sense of peace (Namaste Christine) and a 2006 Pinot Noir (partly because I just love their gorgeous label by designer Chris Noud of NowDesign), my inner calm was quickly evaporating and my patience tried by the bumper-to-bumper traffic along Highway 99 through Dundee. While attempting to make a left turn during rush hour, waiting for some kind soul to let me in, it occurred to me that perhaps Daedalus’ should capitalize on the traffic; providing respite to weary-eyed drivers, tired of riding their brake through town. Doesn’t a glass of Pinot sound so much better?

With that thought in mind, after finally making my way in to traffic, I quickly veered back out again and directly into Argyle’s tasting room.  Earlier in the day, while at Archery Summit, I was chatting with this California girl (with great shoes) about where she had been and what she had liked. She was looking for some recommendations on where to go next and I was trying to figure out what she liked, so I wouldn’t steer her wrong. She told me she didn’t enjoy Argyle—thought the wines were way overpriced for what they were (this coming from someone who was paying Archery Summit prices). I was surprised and expressed my opinion that they must have been sold out of some of their best wines or perhaps it was just an off day. I’d visited before and always enjoyed the experience. Indeed, some of the wines are a bit spendy, but they do something called Extended Tirage; a bubbly blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, bottle-aged for 10 years sur lees, and at $50, is actually a terrific value (easily, compared to a Dom Perignon—which it does).

Argyle’s tasting room is located in a classic white Victorian mansion with wrap-around deck and gardens straight out of a magazine. When I stepped inside, it occurred to me that many others had the same brilliant idea to try and let the traffic die down a bit, as a spot at the bar was not to be found. I patiently waited for some space to free up and finally getting to taste, found I wasn’t feeling completely blown away either. The service was extremely impersonal (though they were really busy) and the wines, though good were indeed a chunk of change, perhaps even “overpriced” to quote my California girl (except that Extended Tirage!!). I do know that I have loved these wines in the past (especially the Blanc de Blanc), so I think it was just a matter of my personal experience souring my taste… shame.

Preferring to fight traffic on the road instead of traffic at the bar (believe it or not), I left Argyle feeling not quite as satisfied as in visits past. While waiting again for an opening in the long line of cars, I concluded that perhaps my Argyle visits have always been good because they were always the first stop of the day, the tasting room was always quiet and the bubbles were a fun way to open the day and your palate. Sometimes timing is everything.

Back on the road, I chose to round out my downtown Dundee excursion with a visit to Dobbes Family Estate (DFE). Dobbes tasting room had a very interesting feel. From the outside, it looked like a little country club café; and from the inside, it looked like a treehouse you’d find in Swiss Family Robinson. With a giant cedar tree growing through the center, the cedar-line walls and ceiling lights cleverly mimicking skylights lent a very relaxed and a comfortable feel. Orion was behind the bar, pouring both his knowledge of the wine and some of the wittiest banter I’d heard yet that day. He’s the kind of guy you want pouring your wine, he’s completely unintimidating yet very well educated on his product, he was attentive and funny—I was impressed (not an easy feat). As he provided personal tableside service to a group sitting outside, he officially called “Dobbes Happy Hour” (as the tasting room is open an hour past most other tasting rooms, until 6:00pm) and within seconds, the previously quiet bar was steadily humming along—Orion having no problem juggling the growing crowd.

Joe Dobbes (who also makes the more affordable Wine By Joe) is a veteran winemaker, with over 21 vintages in the Willamette Valley. He makes a crisp and clean Pinot Gris, an exotic and full-bodied Viogner from the Rogue Valley, several Pinot Noir cuvees (blends) as well as several single-vineyard Pinots, of which I particularly enjoyed the DFE Nuestro Sueno Vineyard Pinot Noir; packed with structure and concentrated aromas of black fruit (plum, blackberry, blueberry…), anise and loam, this wine was drinking very well and would only benefit from additional cellaring.

While Orion shrewdly remarked on how gas and wine are the two most expensive liquids in the world (a tidbit I’ve yet to confirm as fact), I realized both were depleting my already-drained back account, so I said my goodbyes and I took off headed for home feeling success in a good day’s work tasting wine and touring wineries. Next stop, Carlton—this time I’m going for sure! Until we sip again…

Cheers!

A Moment on the Lips…

As I headed off again for Wine Country, Oregon, I was feeling incredibly indecisive about where I was actually headed. Having woken up late (again), I was already feeling behind schedule, so my initial thought of touring Carlton seemed more and more like a bad idea. I passed Archery Summit Road and remembered Archery Summit was the only winery in the Dundee Hills I hadn’t visited when I toured that area a few weeks ago. Thinking I may as well complete the region, I took the next turn and headed back to Archery Summit vineyards and winery. Second-guessing myself though along the way, I pulled off the road again, questioning whether or not I should be sticking to a more formal agenda; keeping my tasting confined to specific regions. Reminding myself again of my need to go there anyway, I pulled back on the road (feeling a bit like a knucklehead) and continued along to the winery still pondering where I could go next to keep to some logical tour.

I’d be lying if I didn’t tell you before I arrived at Archery Summit, I was thinking how much I was hoping to not like their wines. Although I had heard great things about them throughout the Valley, I had never actually tasted what all the buzz was about. What I knew of Archery Summit is that they’re very expensive—even more so than already overpriced Oregon Pinot noir which gave me the impression they were trying to maintain an elitist image. I put all those preconceived notions out of my mind as I paused to “take in the view” (as my dad would say), snapped a photo for prosperity and trying in earnest to keep my assumptions to a minimum, opened myself up to experience Archery Summit.

The grounds were awe-inspiring, with elegantly appointed details and obviously no spared expense. As it turned out, and much to my chagrin, the wines were truly exceptional too. Actually, I think they just might be the Princess Diana of Oregon Pinot noir; elegant, graceful and classy yet still somehow strong, warm and approachable. A bottle of their cheapest sells for $48, (almost affordable, that bottle did go home with me) and the prices just went up from there. Luxuriously savoring tastes of $100 and even $150 bottle Pinots that were equal parts of heavenly perfumed aromatics and complex, sensual and compelling flavors. The staff was generous with their knowledge; offering guests technical information, recommendations on where to go next and where to find the best imported cheeses and picnic items (Horseradish Cheese & Wine Shop in downtown Carlton), they were right!

After tasting through the magnificently extravagant wines, Guest Relations Associate Barry Rogge offered me a tour of the famous caves, cellar and wine library. I’m not sure if I was getting some kind of special treatment because I was in the industry, because he overheard me talking about my blog or if I just looked really cute that day—any which way you slice it, I came out the winner. The caves are just as you would imagine, a dark and curved labryinth of tunnels lined end to end with French oak barrels full of lusty, aging wine. At the central core is a chamber used for private events; sufficient to fulfill anyone’s fantasy of celebrating something in an intimate, candle lit wine-lined cave.

Built in 1993 into the hillside of the 115-acre estate vineyard, the five-floor, state-of-the-art, gentle-processing, gravity flow winery is a cunning combination of Old-World aesthetics and New-World savvy. With dazzling patio views overlooking the vineyard hillside and valley below, exceptional Pinot Noirs and an unpretentious staff, Archery Summit is definitely a winery not to be missed. But sorry Cindy Anderson (of the Oregon Wine Country Guidebook), somehow I missed those bathrooms…guess I’ll have to go back, darn!

Feeling almost tipsy, either from the two sips of $100-plus wine I just couldn’t bring myself to spit out, or more likely, the private, head-spinning tour I had just experienced, I took off in the direction of “I still didn’t know where yet”. My car seemingly set on autopilot steered itself right into the gates of Sokol Blosser Winery and their down-to-earth yet up-beat yurt-like tasting room. Sokol Blosser’s wine and crowd was young and vibrant with many locals and lots of big buyers. My old friend (and fellow Ponzi graduate) Jenny Mosbacher was slinging wines that day, making it a bonus visit for me.

Probably most famous for their wine Evolution (a blend of 9 whites and a brilliant way to market the relatively unknown varietal Muller-Thurgeau) with 1% residual sugar, the wine is unique, refreshing and ridiculously simple to pair with food (the winery suggests spicy Asian cuisine or a simple peanut and banana sandwich); clearly a Best-Seller. The 07 Pinot Noir was young but opening up nicely—very fruit-forward with some coffee and earthiness just starting to show through. The 06 Jenny pulled from behind the bar was significantly more foresty, with lush chocolate and something layered underneath, like cured meat (I know it sounds crazy, but that’s what I was tasting). The winery is instantly commanding of respect as the first LEED certified winery in the country, as well as for their dedication to organic farming and sustainabililty. Sit on the large wooden deck nestled in the maple trees overlooking grapevines and solar panels, enjoy the wine and absorb the view or, in the Fall, hang out and watch the maple leaves change color before your eyes.

My day was starting to take some sort of form, as I drove on to Dayton next to familiarize myself with Stoller Winery. Overlooking wheat fields and oak trees, it’s a bit as if you drove onto the set of Little House on the Prairie… then you see the winery and know you’re definitely not in the old West. Far from it’s turkey farm roots, Stoller Winery’s a marvel of contemporary architecture; with a solid steel exterior, huge glass windows to maximize sunlight exposure and museum-quality modern art strategically placed throughout, it’s a visual feast. Their Gold LEED certification is just the icing on the cake. My husband would have loved to play on their nine-hole disc-golf course (next year honey!), but mostly guests were outdoors, soaking up the last of the summer sunshine and ripe vineyard views with a glass of wine in hand.

Stoller’s wines are a tremendous value (all under $40), so you can take home a terrific bottle without feeling like you need to apply for an extra line of credit or put it away for a special occasion. But I was especially fond of the sophisticated yet relaxed feel of the place and felt like I could bring my family for a quick escape to the country and keep everyone entertained.

With visions of late afternoon bike rides teasing my tired brain, I threw off the temptation and instead drove on to Seufert Winery across from City Hall in downtown Dayton. When I opened the doors to a busy bottling line, I was fairly certain I was in the wrong place. I went back outside to confirm my addresses and tried the door again. This time, Jim Seufert met me as I came in and assured me I was indeed in the right place to taste. We stood at a makeshift counter (a piece of glass atop a barrel) and tasted his wines while his friends and family were gobbling up cinnamon candies, bottling the 2008 Woven White. He offered to taste outside, but I honestly was enjoying and feeling a bit nostalgic about being back on a bottling line.

Seufert’s label features a “Wine Snapshot” which offers invaluable information about wine pairing and cellaring in a compact and easy-to-use format. The Pinots were primarily single-vineyard bottlings, (except one blend called Pinotlicious) with higher acids and heavier tannins—requiring quite a bit of cellaring time before really coming into their own. I thought the wines were interesting with a lot of potential to develop and would have liked to have purchased something, but as there were no prices listed anywhere, and my dad always taught me “If you have to ask how much it costs, you probably can’t afford it”, I embarrassingly left without buying anything.

I choose to round out my afternoon at a few downtown Dundee tasting rooms and reluctantly pulled into Daedalus Cellars. I say reluctantly because I have a small list of Oregon wineries I’ve interviewed with who’ve not offered me a position and Daedalus is on that list (which can make visiting a bit awkward). I parked in the practically deserted parking lot to discover at four o’clock, I was the first customer of the day. Though Aron Hess is not my favorite person (and I haven’t said that about anybody here yet, and feel bad about it but he honestly just didn’t make a great first impression on me), admittedly, his wines are good and worthy of tasting. The small, but well-decorated Tasting Room is comfortable, though not particularly memorable and with nothing exceptional or notable, I feel they still need to find that certain je ne sais quoi, that which makes them special and sets them apart.

The most interesting thing about my visit to Daedalus was my conversation with the very part-time tasting room association, Christine (whose day job and primary passion is as a yoga instructor). Completely unprompted, she relayed a story about a student who asked her how she went about planning her yoga class. She musingly replied, “I close my eyes, take a deep breath and go where ever the moment takes me.” With goosebumps at full mast on my arms and my hackles raised, it was as if she knew of my personal struggle that day. I couldn’t help but think how I ultimately let my day unfold, just going with the moment, and that it wasn’t until Christine validated it with her story that I fully felt at peace with my decision. So this week’s lesson is straight from the mouth of Christine (whose yoga class I hope to someday take): Sometimes you just have to close your eyes, take a deep breath and just go where ever the moment takes you. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Your Dundee Hills Daycation

With what already felt like a full day of wine tasting behind me and a full day yet in front of me, I pulled out of Bella Vida, crossed the road into Erath Winery’s drive and made my way past acres of nearly ripe grapes surprisingly not used for Erath, but Argyle wines instead.

When I pulled into the packed parking let, feeling blessed to have found a space, I wondered what all the buzz was about. I passed by families enjoying lunches on the busy patio overlooking the vineyards and entered Erath’s tasting room; which was even busier than the parking lot. Slightly intimidated by the large crowd at the small bar, I took a moment to digest the scene before elbowing my way in. Having never visited Erath before, but knowing they were bought out by the giant Chateaux St. Michelle, I admit I had certain and fairly high expectations. The winery, as it turned out, was obviously and thankfully every bit as charmingly rustic as it ever was. The cedar-lined room with dark wood floors felt much like a mountain cabin, blending seamlessly with the landscape. Instead of stuffed game heads mounted on the walls though, I observed wine bottles (probably killed by the power of a good night) and slightly less exciting but ever so useful…marketing information, woohoo!

As I stood there. completely engrossed with my surroundings, trays of delicious food kept passing me by, teasing and tempting me before disappearing into a room marked “Private Party”. By this time, I had realized the private party was Erath’s Wine Society’s pick-up party, which must equate to feeling like family, because they acted as if they owned the place (as cellar club members often do). I’ll tell you what though, I was wishing for the key to that golden door and I wanted to be a part of that cellar club as I was drooling over the trays of appetizing food vanishing before my eyes—you would have too.

Felice was behind the bar pouring me wines and a little bit of history, when she wasn’t tending to the demanding cellar club members. Of the whites, I especially enjoyed the 2008 Rose Pinot Gris from Knights Gambit Vineyard. Strawberry rhubarb and vanilla hit my nose and if I closed my eyes I could have been smelling a hot pie cooling on an open windowsill. The complex mouth was zesty with hints of watermelon, citrus, berry and spice … oh so nice—but remember, it’s only available at the winery! Another palate pleaser (though not very budget-friendly) was the 2006 Leland Vineyards Pinot Noir. Like dark chocolate covered cherries in a glass, the wine was fruity, rich, sensual and exciting. A little put off by the big crowd though, I choose to drink and run—but with good wines, great views and a lovely place to take it all in, I will undoubtedly return (next year).

Back in my car and headed for Lange and Torii Mor, I passed Crumbled Rock Winery (which had been closed on my way up the hill) and quickly pulled in to park. With no wine tasting fees, but only one wine—one vintage to enjoy, it’s most certainly worth a stop on your wine country daycation. A local couple was enjoying some quiet time on the romantic deck with a bottle of their Pinot Noir after attending the Erath wine club pick-up party and I couldn’t help but feel a little bit like I was intruding on their moment. The guests were really taken aback when I inadvertently uttered out loud, “this wine is just too good not to drink” and an explanation of my journey ensued.

The family-owned, eight-acre Pinot Noir vineyard had been selling grapes since the late eighties, but finally decided to go commercial in 2007, built a winery and hopes the rest will be history. I wish them much success on their winemaking adventure. On my way out of the winery, I noticed a cute little brightly painted stand offering free flowers and poems to passersby … as if their wine wasn’t beautiful enough.

On to Torii Mor, which I had somehow passed by a dozen times without ever stopping before. Driving onto the property was something like driving into a Japanese garden in the shade. I walked up to the pagoda-feeling Haiku House and though definitely original (as far as tasting rooms go), and certainly peaceful and serene, I have to admit that once inside, I felt a bit like I was in an acupuncturist’s waiting room. The clever three-sided bar delivered good wine to happy guests though. And a lover of a good Pinot Blanc, Torii Mor’s was quite a pleasure with fragrances of white flowers and pineapple and a wide mouthful of baked apples, lemon curd and spice. The finish layed on my tongue like a spoonful of crème brulee, but with a little more kick.  I enjoyed my Pinots outside in the zen-like garden and on the way back in laughed at the sign on the door from Sasquatch Books denoting it as one of “The Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest”— I could see that.

My last stop on a long and wine-filled day in the Dundee Hills, was the prestigious Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards. The grounds were thoroughly maintained, though the grasses were growing so high, they obscured the what-would-have-been magnificent views from the patio. The welcoming tasting room boasted two large wood bars to disperse the masses and the simple yet attractive space was large enough for a crowd but still provided a homey and cozy feel in an old-world meets modern kind of way (ie: cool concrete floors trimmed in warm, weathered wood accents). Jesse and his father Don Lange make the wines, and apparently avid fly fishermen; many of the labels are decorated with intricately detailed flies.

The 2007 Chardonnay from Freedom Hill Vineyard immediately demanded my attention with vibrant tastes, rich textures and balanced acid—a single-vineyard wine that brilliantly reflected both the vintage and the terrior.

Pulling out of my seventh winery of the day, with my internal compass needle finally pointing in the direction of home, my lesson was staring me down like a dirty, western gunfighter. If you’re not on a mission like me, and are really just out to enjoy the wineries, limit your number of tasting room visits to just three. More than that and it just all starts to blend together and a cuvee of a day is not the goal. Take your time, savor the wine and drink in your surroundings…what you’ll produce is a lasting memory. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

Chasing Pinot and Pickles

Thoughts gathered; Chehalem wine adventure resumes.

After visiting with Keith Lawton, I was seriously pondering the state of the industry, thinking the obvious I guess. Is this just a symptom of an industry that’s perhaps become a bit bloated? Can 400 or more wineries in one state truly thrive or better yet survive or are some going to just fade away?

The magnificent landscape, with rolling green vineyards in contrast to the golden grasses quickly captured my attention again as I pulled into Arborbrook Vineyards. Set in a remodeled old red barn, with a small playground out back, Arborbrook has a very casual, country-like and family-friendly feel.

A cordial cat was in the entrance basking in the sun and I couldn’t help but pet her as I went in. The crowded tasting room had a cheerful atmosphere, with Proprietor Mary Hanson behind the bar telling funny stories about a tasting room regular. Her story was about a guest who made such a mess with the wine one day, the next time he came in, she had a sippy cup for him with his name on it. He was actually there and produced said sippy for the roaring crowd to see. The tasting room walls were adorned with vivid paintings by local artists and Fanucchi Oils was there featuring special tastings of their oils, vinegars, tapenades and sauces (super fun).

Arborbrook was showing two Pinot Gris, a stainless steel 2008 from Croft Vineyard, and my preferred, the ’08 ANA Vineyard Pinot Gris—Alsatian-style, barrel-aged in French oak with a soft mouth, pretty straw color and vivid fruit and spice. There were several nice Pinot Noirs, but I was especially fond of the ’07 Vintner’s Select Pinot Noir. With firm tannins, I’d expect to lay this wine down for at least a couple of years, but the flavors of dark mountain berries (think blueberries, blackberries, huckleberries), cola and something else I couldn’t quite wrap my nose around (was it incense?) were already coming through with both strength and finesse. It will be interesting to watch this winery develop.

Back in my car, but only for a moment, I drove down the road, past meticulously maintained vineyard rows and into Adelsheim Vineyards. One of Oregon’s founding wineries, visiting here helps shape your sense and understanding of the state’s winemaking history. After walking through the grand foyer, reminiscent of a castle lighthouse or guard tower, I was greeted by the large and impressive tasting room with an enormous bar that seemed to flow through the room like a gentle wave and could comfortably accommodate a substantial number of guests.

Adelsheim’s tasting room is classy without being stuffy, large with plenty of room to move, yet still somehow cozy—an almost impossible combination of sophisticated and relaxed at the same time. The staff was terrific; this adorable little cellar hand named Alex (who impressed me with his ability to recall names and technical information about the wines, things I struggle with) poured for me. The whites were very acid-driven and clean (no oak) and would pair beautifully with food, while the Pinots were very fruit-driven and balanced. I ran into the guests I had seen earlier at Ponzi, and since one was a builder and he noticed I was admiring the cherry wood floors, our conversations turned from food and wine to architecture. I had to laugh out loud when he told me “If you like the floors, you have to see the bathrooms!” If he was that excited about them, I figured I’d better check them out. They were nice, with stone walls and cool, modern concrete countertops, but I was a bit confused. Adelsheim has an absolutely amazing patio overlooking acres of vineyards, a majestic tasting room with even lovelier wines, and this guy’s telling me to check out the john. I guess one never knows what’s going to strike someone else’s fancy.

I decided to end the day at Utopia Vineyards, a very small and virtually unknown producer. With just over 10 acres planted to 11 different clones of Pinot Noir, Daniel Warnshuis grows, produces and bottles a mere 550 cases per vintage. The cannons were firing regularly in the vineyards that afternoon as the previous day’s rain had brought with it tons of grape-grubbing starlings.

Daniel was busy talking with another young couple about scheduling them for a private tasting and tour of the vineyard with their friends while William the dog lounged comfortably at my feet. Daniel was tasting me through two vintages of his estate Pinot Noir (2006 and 2007 — which I think would have been more interesting to taste side by side), as well as a Malbec and Cab Franc he produced under a former label in California. Both Pinots were big and well structured, with lots of mingling fruit and oak. Later on at home, I told my husband about my new boyfriend, a really cute boy who was following me around at Utopia who lured in with his big brown eyes for some heavy petting. Good boy William!

Since embarking on this incredible journey, some interesting thoughts have started brewing in my mind. I’ve been wondering what it is that makes one tasting room stand out against the other? Because to me, even though it probably should be primarily about the wine, there’s really so much more to the big picture. All day long, I kept thinking about the Freudian expression “Sometimes a pickle is more than just a pickle” and applying the expression to tasting rooms. Sometimes a tasting room is more than just a tasting room … it can be so much deeper, so much more than just a place to sip wine. Every so often, there’s a winery that goes the extra mile or offers you an experience beyond just tasting their wines—some that are memorable and will stick with you for a lifetime; let’s call it the x-factor; the specific thing which makes that winery unique. At Marchesi, it was the true Italian hospitality and proscuitto machine, at De Ponte it’s the view and homey feel, at Cooper Mountain it’s the organic and biodynamic element, at Ponzi it’s the history and bocce ball, at Adelsheim it's the technical information and at Utopia, it was William the dog. What I’ve discovered, my big lesson for the day, is that every once in a while, in addition to an amazing bottle of wine, you can also bring home an uncommon and one-of-a-kind memory, and in a sea of tasting rooms, perhaps it’s the places providing the memories that are the ones we can expect to stick around. Until we sip again…

Cheers!