Tri-fectas and Cabernet… in Oregon

The first day of Spring brought with it cornflower blue skies and temperatures pushing 70 degrees… not exactly Portland weather, but welcome like a long lost friend. I arrived at Solena Grand Cru Estate Winery eager to taste their vertical of Cabernets (vintages 2003-2006). I’d previously tasted at Solena’s downtown Carlton location, but since then, they’ve opened their brand new estate winery, located on 80 acres in Yamhill, Oregon. The desire to visit their new location, a special tasting of Cabernets in the vast land of Pinot noir and getting out to enjoy the amazing weather made for an irresistible tri-fecta.

Emily Stoller-Smith (wife of Dundee Bistro Executive Chef extraoridinaire Jason Stoller-Smith) had an unexpectedly large turn-out for their Cabernet Sauvignon vertical tasting, but she handled it with grace, wit and style when she asked if any guests had their OLCC card and invited them behind the counter to pour. I felt inclined to do so… for a fleeting moment. Then I remembered I already work for nothing (except the pleasure writing my blog and hope that I’m entertaining my readers) and decided one unpaid job was quite enough.

Emily started off my tasting with a 2008 Pinot Gris. I took my glass outside to the peaceful deck overlooking the young vines and solar panels because nothing invites a glass of good white wine like the warmth of the sun’s rays. The day was a perfect pairing with my wine, which was almost equally perfect. The Pinot Gris was bone dry with intense aromatics of Asian pear, white flowers, starfruit and a delightful minerality, which added both body and character. I sat alone on the deck, tasting my wine while quietly absorbing my surroundings. To be completely honest, all I really wanted to do was buy a bottle, grab my sweetie and hold up with a picnic and some witty conversation while we lied in each other's arms soaking up the dreamy sunshine.

I returned to the company of the bar to start my Cabernet tasting and was slightly disappointed when one glass of 2003 was set out before me. I know it’s an obscene amount of glassware, but if you’re going to offer a tasting of four consecutive vintages, you should be able to revisit the wines for comparison of color, clarity, viscosity, and taste them all side by side; just my opinion. Here’s my impression of the wine (which by the way were being offered for sale as a collection for less than $100—screaming deal):

2003 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — A sweet and fragrant nose of blackberries, root beer, violets, tobacco and mint. The distinctive peppery finish was long and smooth. Well structured with a nice, dark garnet color and medium-heavy weight viscosity.

2004 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — Same black fruit core and same white peppery finish as the 2003, with firmer tannins, a big bite of dusty earth, licorice and savory cured meat.

2005 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — My favorite of the line-up, and probably because it was the most Pinot-like. It was silky and well balanced with a full nose of blackberry, mocha, violet and licorice that carried through on in the palate. I thought this wine was so good I even brought a bottle to take to dinner at my friend Todd's (who's also a fellow blogger and Pinot connoisseur). I hope it's as good as I remember!

2006 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — Still young tasting and very fruit-forward, thrusting wild raspberries in your face (compared with the black fruit core of the three prior vintages). The nose was soft, the tannins light and I just didn’t see a whole lot of complexity in this wine.

I was slightly amused when I sat down to take some notes and glanced at the guestbook next to me; the first name was Kevin Bacon with his email address, followed by George Clooney, of course. I think someone had a little too much Cabernet that day.

Witnessing me take notes with an old-fashioned pen and notepad, a conversation with a guest ensued about his helpful iPhone application for tasting notes. The world continues to get more high-tech and I struggle to keep up, yet I rest assured knowing there will at least never be an app for making wine. That’s one thing that will thankfully remain a form of art—an individual, beautiful and creative expression of fruit. Until we sip again…

Cheers!

The Chrismas Spirit's Alive in Oregon Wine Country

Oh the weather outside is frightful, but wine tasting is still so delightful. Since you’ve no place to go, let them pour, let them pour, let them pour wine for you. Yes, with a little forethought and planning, wine tasting during not-so-idyllic weather can be the perfect outing. However, on days when the rain, ice or snow is coming down (yes, it actually does all three in Portland… sometimes at once), I tend to avoid the back-country dirt roads that turn into seas of mud and lakes of quicksand, preferring to access those tasting rooms situated along paved roads. I know, it doesn’t sound as romantic, but again, with a little planning, you’ll be amazed at the winter wine tour you could arrange.

Tying Portland to Willamette Valley wine country is the Highway 99 corridor. The Yamhill County sign is the first indication that you’ve left the big city and civilization behind and entered Oregon’s wine country. Immediately past that sign, and just shy of the town of Newberg, is the very first winery you come to along this stretch… August Cellars. I’ve driven past it over a hundred times and yet never stopped. Many years ago, I heard a bad guest review (from someone I respect), which I sadly let influence my decision to visit. I’m glad my quest finally brought me there because it was nothing like I had imagined. The winery’s structure is immediately impressive with what must be 50-foot-high ceilings and rustically urban cement and wood all around. It took over two years to complete the gravity flow facility, which was finally opened for production in 2005 and is now home to six boutique wineries producing small lots of wines. In fact, each winery has their own individual cellar for aging and crafting wines. The real unique thing about August Cellars’ tasting room is their tasting flight changes every week, so guests could stop by frequently and always taste something new and can taste a sampling of these small producers as well. The owners, the Schaad family, don’t have any vineyards planted, but do have 20 acres of farm with Italian walnut and prune orchards (the walnuts are for sale in the tasting room and are amazing… fresh and not bitter at all).

August Cellars produces some interesting wines, which John poured for me in their loft-style tasting room. The 2007 Riesling had amazing aromatics, but I took special notice of the 2007 Pinot Noir Oregon Oak Barrel Select, aged in Oregon White Oak barrels made by a local cooper in McMinnville. I’ve heard some winemakers experiment with the Oregon barrels, blending them with French Oak, but this is the first “All Oregon” wine I’ve personally seen—Oregon fruit, Oregon winemaker, Oregon production and Oregon Oak barrels… fantastic. The wine was a lovely lighter style, but perceptibly complex at first smell. It made its grand entrance, swirling with sweet cherry pie, juicy plums, soft vanilla, and it ended with a deep bow of exotic and spicy cinnamon. Also of particular appeal was the 2004 Pinot Noir Aubre Vert Vineyard; the only Pinot noir August Cellars produced from grapes actually located within their Chehalem Mountain AVA (American Viticultural Area). It was a worthy ambassador of the region… big, dark and a bit jammy with rich and earthy aromas of fig and cocoa (one of my most favorite combinations) and an explosion of wild black raspberries, black plum and vanilla filling my eager taste buds. This wasn’t your classic “pair with salmon” Oregon Pinot… though delicious, it would perhaps hold up better with heavier foods like meats, pastas and stews. While I’d passed by August Cellars countless times without stopping, the next winery on my tour I had visited prior, and it figured both warmly and prominently in my memories.

Conveniently located just a half-mile or so down the highway is Rex Hill which is built around the carefully preserved original fruit and nut drying facility. On my initial visit to Rex Hill, my six-month-old son sleeping in heavenly peace next to my husband and I while I consumed and enjoyed my first few post-pregnancy sips of wine. Memories alone can be intoxicating—but back to Rex Hill in the present day.

Open Rex Hill’s magnificently hand-carved wooden cellar door and enter into an arena where, in addition to sipping premium wine, you can also learn to hone your sniffing skills by studying and identifying individual smells around Rex Hill’s essence table. Imagine a circle of glasses, each filled with a unique essence… raspberries, rose petals, lavender, clove, ginger, cinnamon, vanilla, and even moist earth and wet stones sharpen your sense of smell and educate your palate. I’ve seen some experts describe a wine’s aroma as cat pee… I’m glad they didn’t have that essence. Tasting Room Associate Hugo Gutierrez admits the table’s not easy to maintain, but appreciates how uncommon it is and recognizes the importance of having an accessible yet serious wine education component within the tasting room.

A warm fire cozied up the tasting room’s intimate seating area adjacent to the central bar where Hugo and I engaged in a meaningful conversation about freelance writing and his passion to bridge the weak relationship between the wine and the Hispanic communities. All the wines were tasting quite good, but Rex Hill makes a number of single vineyard designates that really shine. That day I tasted a 2006 Rex Hill Jacob Hart Pinot Noir that was focused and well balanced with lush red fruit, floral rosehips and a rich, dark, moist earthiness underneath it all. The supple round tannins lent that silky feel as the wine slid gracefully across my tongue, almost sneaking down my throat. Rex Hill (owned by A to Z wineworks) biodynamically farms 17 acres of Pinot noir and keeps one row of Muscat that is tended to by the staff. Each staff member adopts a few vines and tends to them throughout the growing season ensuring everyone has a connection to the plant and to the earth.

Well, the weatherman was wrong again (surprise), the expected ice and snow never came and I was easily able to continue on my quest to conquer Newberg in a day. At the Dark Horse Wine Bar (offering new tasting flights each week), I tasted cult favorite Sineann Wines, some older wines from Medici Vineyards as well as some exciting Merlots, Cabernets and Zinfandels from Ferraro Cellars. Another easily accessible downtown winery worth stopping in even if the weather is good is Chehalem. The visually interesting tasting room’s set in a refurbished automotive repair shop from the 1940’s with massive, old-growth Douglass Fir beams juxtaposed against updated bright colors and modern fused glass art. The wines were stellar, and being in the mood for a good white, I found one in the 2008 INOX Chardonnay. Stainless steel fermented and stunning with a crisp, not overly tart citrus fruit flavor coming through. It was a great evening sipper all on its own, though it did pair perfectly with my husband’s charming company.

This particular wine tour taught many lessons, some of which I thought I already knew. First off, and almost obvious, I was reminded to have an open mind about everything and always form my own opinions. Secondly, I learned to never listen to the weatherman when planning my day (Did I really need to learn that lesson again?). Lastly, and most importantly though, it got me thinking about the hectic holiday season. Between the shopping and the parties, it’s easy it is to lose track of the real yuletide message. So, while I’d love to ask Santa for a trip to someplace warm and tropical, a good stable job or the Cellar Crawl Collection (Five winemakers, five barrels, five vineyards… 25 different expressions of Pinot noir!), all I really want for Christmas (if I celebrated Christmas) is peace—for me, for you and for the rest of the world. So have yourselves a merry little Christmas—and a glass of wine. Until we sip again…

Cheers!